So I'm having a lot of fun working on my door layout project. I'm learning lots of things as I go. First, don't trust all of the plans you see on the Internet. Not all of them actually fit together the way they say they do. Second, turning the voltage all the way up on my CW-80 transformer makes my o22 switches snap back and forth really well, but also melts the lamp housings after a while. Ah the joys of learning. Anyway, with the exception of one chattering switch, I'm ready to screw my track down. I bought #6 pan head screws. They fit through the holes in the old tubular track, but just barely. I'm wondering if I should move down to a #4 screw so that I have a little play to work with. Any suggestions?
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Bob,
I use all 3/4 inch #4 screws. I am all O27 tubular.
I use #4 on 027, 031, Fastrack and Realtrack ... different lengths depending
Bob:
I'll bet you could use the #4s just fine. The screws really just keep the track from shifting horizontally and that doesn't demand a lot of torque. One thing, though, if you need longer screws, you may find it hard to locate them in the #4 size. I found some black oxide ones that are used in the cabinet trades and they worked out fine.
Neil
I use #4 x 3/4 screws for tubular 0 gauge track. My local Ace Hardware stocks them in black.
Here are drop in replacement LED bulbs for the switches. They will keep your lanterns from melting. Use them in locomotives, rolling stock and accessories too.
Larry
I've found #4's in lengths up to 1" at our local Ace Hardware.
#4's should be fine. Gargraves sells #4 black oxide screws if that would look better on your layout. I know they have 3/8", 1/2", 3/4" and 1" and possibly more sizes. As others have said, which ever you choose the 1'' one would probably be a good choice. Follow TrainLarry's advice about the LED bulbs.
Drill larger the holes in the track.
Thanks for all of the advice. I'm definitely switching to #4 screws and I'll also be picking up some LED bulbs. (And a couple replacement lantern covers since I melted a few.)
If you are using command control and/or 18 volts for your switch bulbs you will want to get 18 volt bulbs. I am not familiar with the bulb link provided above, they may have them? If not, try here TrainAidsA, they have 18 volt bulbs. I am not familiar with the switches you have either so I don't know what bulb they take?
Just a small trick to use on your switch lanterns is to drill a small hole in the top and this way the heat from the bulb will escape and not melt the lanterns.
All the new reproductions I have bought over the years all have the hole.
But the LEDs are the way to go!
Thanks everyone for the advice. I switched to the #4 screws and they were definitely a good choice. I'll pick up some of the LED bulbs later this week.
If you don't go the LED route you can try 24 volt lamps. At 16-18 volts they burn cooler and are not so inclined to melt the lantern (with hole in top). I get my 24 volt lamps from The Train Tender. I believe they are but .50 each.
Different screws that I have used. The long slender #2 black screw is an Atlas track screw. The screws in the picture vary, from the largest, a #6 drywall screw to #2 screws, which works well for some applications. Those in the middle are #4. The small #2 screws can be hard to find at local supply sources. Atlas track screw should be readily available. You are looking at flat head, and pan head screws, each with a specific purpose.