Sculptamold and static grass

Instructions.    Click on the underlined.

Thanks

I read instructions on Sculptamold and Fusion Fiber. Sculptamold says 'sticks to most surfaces'. Fusion Fiber says won't stick to smooth surfaces but I've stuck it to some smooth surfaces. Not sure about joint compound.

When I use static grass I have put it on multiple degrees on my mountain the only thing I did to make it work was used elmers glue out of the bottle not deluted when at great angles and degrees

Joint compound sticks to most surfaces.  Unfortunately, applied more than 1/8" to 1/4" thick, it doesn't dry/harden well.   Recent repair I purchased a 45 minute set, joint compound mix.  Has to be mixed with water, total time mix and apply, before it stiffen is 45 minutes.   

I've used a lot of sculptamold, never on shiny plastic. I'd be cautious. It seems it would be simple to mix a small batch, test it on some sheet styrene...

I use a lot of Fusion Fiber with Fastrack. I just cover the side with clear tape or something like Saran Wrap and apply the Fiber. When it is cured, I just cut off the excess with a utility knife. I'm sure it could also work with Sculptamold.

Anyone who's ever tried to clean it out of a mixing bucket can tell you it sticks pretty decently to smooth plastic. You can get it off if you flex the bucket or work at it with a screwdriver/putty knife. Try covering whatever you dont want bonded with plastic wrap then just cut the edge of the sculptamold away after it dries.

Static Grass will stick to anything thats got wet glue on it.

If you are concerned the surface is too smooth, put down a layer of the mesh drywall tape first.  The fusion fiber or other compounds you mention will have something to “grab”.  I picked this up from the fusion fiber guys some time ago.

dobermann:

You can also try sanding the plastic with 60 grit paper. It won't look pretty but you are covering it up anyway.

@Mike CT posted:

Joint compound sticks to most surfaces.  Unfortunately, applied more than 1/8" to 1/4" thick, it doesn't dry/harden well.   Recent repair I purchased a 45 minute set, joint compound mix.  Has to be mixed with water, total time mix and apply, before it stiffen is 45 minutes.   

I've found that you can layer it, wet over dry, to get much greater thicknesses.  Only problems are 1. it's way too heavy and 2. it chips easily.

Put an even coat of Johnson's paste wax on the bottom and the edges of the roadbed , and let it dry before you lay it on the joint compound or other sculpture product.  (Use the type of wax that comes in a can.)  I would doubt very much if the compound will stick.

Gunsmiths use this method to protect the metal barrel and action of a rifle before they glass bed the inside of a stock and set the action down into the glass bedding gel.  (Often they are dealing with an extremely expensive rifle.) Once the bedding dries, the action and barrel and be easily pulled off of the gel.

Just don't let the compound slop up over the edges of the roadbed when you press it down.

Hope this helps,

Mannyrock