Sd45 I picked up. no response on track

Ship it back.

Post model number.  If battery was corroded, check battery clip terminals for corrosion.  If bought new, return it.

I did not run in conventional mode, but that would not ignite the PS-2 boards to run again would they?  its not new.  listed as the year 2000. MTH  30-2193-1. 

I figured its not a valuable engine, so Im returning it.   thanks for input guys. 

Chris

Try a NEW 9 V battery as temporary test or better a BCR. If neither work, check all electrical plug connections.

Are you even getting lights and sounds in the conventional mode?

After that - seek service.

Probably not but if the engine is seeing the dcs signal in command mode it's not going to do anything.(no lights sound) until it's been added to the dcs remote.(which you can't do) You may hear a slight click when power is first applied. In conventional mode the engines start up with sound and lights with or with out a battery.  I'm still running a few dcs  engines from around  2000 .

Chris,

If the engine does nothing in conventional, I never seen one that would work in command. 

Joe, if the engine were locked in neutral, it would not move until the start up button were pressed and it went into command mode.

I agree with your statement, but in Chris's case with his engine, it's highly unlikely to be locked in neutral, have no lights or no sound of any kind when tested in conventional. I usually test newly aquired engines first in conventional to see if the battery is up and watch the amps on the Z-4000 to make sure they don't go high as I roll up the volts slowly. Then I use DCS.

I agree it's highly unlikely.  I suspect that the 5-volt board has failed.

I will have to switch one of my tracks to var. 1 and see if she will run in conventional mode. 

if the 5v board is gone.  I assume scrap the DCS and buy a new diesel setup for 180 bucks! 

You could buy an PS2 upgrade kit thru the MTH Club, and gut the engine.  This would run you about $160.  Or you could buy a brand new one for the low $200s, remove (and save for parts the motors from this and run it as a dummy.  Unless it has great sentimental value, not worth investing in an upgrade kit.  Someone like GGG or gunrunnerjohn may be able to repair it, but I'll let them speak & quote costs.

ggg. did my upgrade on my GS4.  I converted that from PS1. but it was worth it because of the shear cost of a regular PS2 GS4 ran super high!  so it made sense.  he does a top notch job along with JOhn.  ill consult them.  it comes down to shipping back and forth and parts.    I wanted to use this as a Helper on the rear to simulate an Norfolk southern setup.  but it can serve as a dummy.  I can use the rollers and such and electrify the lights and add an on/off switch to it.  we'll see!

Like they said, clean the battery connectors really good and install a new battery.

Otherwise you are trying to jump corrosion with less than 9V and no amps to speak of.

You may be pleasantly surprised!!

Chris, if you were to convert this to a dummy and buy a similar engine new, you could run them as a team, semi-permanently connected, with a 3-conductor tether, and have the headlight and coupler on the dummy work from the PS2/3.  I have done that with a Williams double unit I upgrqded to PS2.

Depends on whether you'd want to run the powered unit by itself sometimes.

If yes, What I would do is get a submini DPDT toggle switch.  I'd cut the coupler wire and run the feed from the board to one of the center terminals, the wire from the coupler to an outside terminal of that same side of the switch, and a new wire from the other terminal of that circuit to one wire on a Miniatronics 3-pole socket.  I'd do the same for the rear headlight circuit, using the other side of the switch, and having the new wire go to a second pole of the Miniatronics.  I'd run a wire from coupler ground---if I recall from my last upgrqde it's a purple wire that also serves as ground for several items, including both headlight and coupler---to the third pole of the Miniatronics.  On the dummy unit, I'd connect the wire from the coupler circuit to the front coupler of the dummy, and a wire from the headlight circuit to the headlight of the dummy.  Ground of course for both.  Depending on how the switch was thrown, either the coupler and rear headlight on the powered unit or the dummy would activate.

If no, I'd omit the switch and leave rear headlight and coupler of the powered unit disconnected.

The above is based on my recollection that the headlight uses the same ground as the coupler.  If my recollection is bad---it's been years since I did this job---you'd need a 4-pole miniatronics.

I didn't use any LEDs.  Didn't bother with marker lights or a cab light in the dummy.  Remember, I did this on a Williams, after completely gutting the wiring and lighting.

well,  after much debate by seller, I am sending it back.  thought I cut a deal since its not working, but he wants to cancel the transaction entirely.  so its going back.  but ill use this info  RJR on another one I intend to pick up and either as a dummy or maybe a train show pickup for parts.  thanks

A money-wise move.