Sealing light from lighting pcb

Black silicone?

Doug

Aluminum foil and insulate any electronics it is near

Assuming there is minimal heat. Electrical material available at the big box stores.  Duct seal. A soft pliable putty that can be formed to most any shape.   Click on the link. 

Have you looked at Liquid Tape?  It'll go anywhere and stop the light cold.  I just paint it on where I don't want light.  All the big-box lumber stores carry it.

Mike CT posted:

Assuming there is minimal heat. Electrical material available at the big box stores.  Duct seal. A soft pliable putty that can be formed to most any shape.   Click on the link. 

The duct seal doesn’t work well in this ares

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Have you looked at Liquid Tape?  It'll go anywhere and stop the light cold.  I just paint it on where I don't want light.  All the big-box lumber stores carry it.

Hmm? That I might give a try

Mike CT posted:

Assuming there is minimal heat. Electrical material available at the big box stores.  Duct seal. A soft pliable putty that can be formed to most any shape.   Click on the link. 

Oh, duct seal. I misunderstood,. I thought about that also. 

 

Silly Putty 😁 Aroma Putty 🍋 Power Putty✊ Mounting putty for walls anyhow as Silly Puttys may flow too easy when warm. Power Putty Ive not played with much. Pretty easy to remove as is. Alcohol will break them down. Paint the edge of the window facing the lights. I like silver on black for light blocking. The Liquid E. Tape would be great for that , but thicker. High heat silicone red/black .

I've tried a variety of techniques, the Liquid Tape has worked the best for me.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

I've tried a variety of techniques, the Liquid Tape has worked the best for me.

John,

How’s removal of the liquid tape? Filling large gaps? Does it go on semi thick

I don't have any trouble pulling it off if I have to.  It fills very well, and you can use a second coat to cover any voids.  All I can say is try it.

trnluvr posted:

Black silicone?

Doug

Many, not all,  forms of silicone caulk, sealant, glue release acetic acid during the cure not a very good substance to have around electronics.  If the uncured silicone has a vinegar smell don't use it around electronics.   Another good reason for Liquid Tape over silicone is it skins over faster than silicone.   One technique I use to seal off light spill from LEDs is to cover them with black heat shrink so the light can only come out the end of the tube.                     j

On some of the loco's where I've installed LED lights, I've first superglued a short piece of brass or Al tubing tight to the backside of headlight opening.  I then insert the LED (with the leads suitably insulated) and back fill the end of the tube with the above-mentioned liquid tape.  I"ve had very little light leakage problems.

If I want to really hide the light in the back, I just slip black heatshrink over the LED and then seal the rear.  If you use the flangeless LED's, the tubing slips right over.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

If I want to really hide the light in the back, I just slip black heatshrink over the LED and then seal the rear.  If you use the flangeless LED's, the tubing slips right over.

John,

Tried a bunch of things before trying the liquid tape. Which would have been the last resort. What worked best was the black foam sticky back paper that you once recommended for smok gaskets. I cut the form out using the shell as a pattern. Then took the window out. I forced the stick foam up toward the front of the cab.

Then stuck it down to the pcb. It's great the foam is sort of forming....then put the window back which helps a bit to hold it in place.

 

 

 

Now, to adjust the number boards in relation to the headlight intensity.  Thinking of going a bit higher on the resistor value. I don't have another sd70 to compare the lighting against. Just, the two, I'm putting together from parts from Nassau hobbies. 

 

Foam may react to plastic contact. If you haven't used it with plastic before, keep a good eye on it; especially the very near future at first, but regularly for a year or so, and long term too.

Foam can't be fully trusted anymore imo. This foam failure brings my total loss from bad foam suppliers to about $3g this century, about $300 of it in bad tapes and weather strips. This foam was once black (Harman Kardon this time). 

Lol, Bose 901's had the same issue. I'm sure the smoke unit will need replacement before the foam gives out, Anyway, it did work great. Like they say a big experiment. Plus, for right now a less messy alternative.. The next step would have been the liquid glue

Infinity studio monitors too. I could add a half dozen speakers actually. Only two have bit me persinally, but they were not cheap versions made for Sears, etc. but the true audiophile versions.

 Ive had dealership foam core fuel pump seals melt in seconds after contact with fuel too...

I.e., IMO foams can't be trusted blindly unless maybe you mixed it yourself, only tested and watched. (there are refoam kits for speakers sure, but I paid for quality I didn't get for long. I have speakers made in the 40s sounding better now 😒)

Adriatic posted:

Infinity studio monitors too. I could add a half dozen speakers actually. Only two have bit me persinally, but they were not cheap versions made for Sears, etc. but the true audiophile versions.

 Ive had dealership foam core fuel pump seals melt in seconds after contact with fuel too...

I.e., IMO foams can't be trusted blindly unless maybe you mixed it yourself, only tested and watched. (there are refoam kits for speakers sure, but I paid for quality I didn't get for long. I have speakers made in the 40s sounding better now 😒)

Forget foam surrounds. In anything higher than 40% humidity they will attract mold which will eat them.  If you cannot find cloth reinforced rubber, to fit your speakers, make your own. Here is a link.          j

http://boomboxery.com/forum/in...undbetter-than-foam/