SETTING UP A ROSS SWITCH WITH NON DERAILING FEATURE

Alex:

That is a neat idea. I was running the wires through a hole and underneath the table. Your idea is much cleaner and the wire stops right at the switch motor.

Joe

Where there's a will, there's a way and you always have both.   Excellent tutorial Alex. 

Chief Bob (Retired) 

Excellent, Alex!

Alex,

I really like the idea, and it will work with my DZ-2500 switch machines.  On my test layout (and future layout), I'm currently running the wires next to the ties thinking that I can cover them up with ballast, also thinking about under the table like Joe did.  Your approach looks so much better.  And not hard to do.  Thanks.

Done a few of those in my day.  Good post Alex.

Thanks everyone, I did two more today. I wanted to mention when installing the switch on your layout you must remember that there's wire's under the ties, so when you secure the switch to the table make sure your screw doesn't go through the wire.

Thanks again, Alex

Alex,

Thanks for the tutorial!

Alex

Another little tip since you made the cuts in the switch rails.  Put some epoxy drops on all the spikes the length of the insulated rail on the switch  This prevents that rail from moving and the spikes from loosening up  which will happen with such a short rail.   We found it better to use a longer insulated rail on the approach track instead of cutting the switch rail

bluelinec4 posted:

Alex

Another little tip since you made the cuts in the switch rails.  Put some epoxy drops on all the spikes the length of the insulated rail on the switch  This prevents that rail from moving and the spikes from loosening up  which will happen with such a short rail.   We found it better to use a longer insulated rail on the approach track instead of cutting the switch rail

Hi Ben, 

it wouldn't of helped  if I dipped it in Texas. Lol !! 

All  kidding aside, great tip which I should of  mentioned. What I did was put a dab of hot glue to hold the short rails. 

Alex