Shelf layouts

Here is ours. This is in my son's room. The house was new construction and the contractor had fun working it into the trimwork.

Corey, very cool.  You're running an SD70?  Do you know what the radius of the curves are?  I'd love to try one out on my curves.  I have one tight corner, which is 036.  Not sure if it would make it consistently.

Jerry

Jerry, Thank you very much!  The billboard reefers are some K-Line and some Atlas-O.  I would like to buy more, but they can be pricey!!  I have 1/4" cork roadbed down, which looks you have something similar.  The noise isn't bad.  The outer loop is GarGraves, and the inner is some 0-27 tubular I had with 042 curves I bought.  My original plan was for one track, and I didn't figure in on shelving at the corners.  Then over one winter when I couldn't work on it because of carpal tunnel problems, I decided two tracks would work, so I tried the second loop with tubular.  The plan was to go back and fix the corner shelves, but now that I see double track doesn't work on the two walls with jogs, I will only have one corner with double track and will fix only that one.

Here is a video of an MTH set running.  I had to slow down for the jogs on the unseen walls.

Here is another.  It shows the jogs I mentioned earlier.  

Goshawk posted:

Here is ours. This is in my son's room. The house was new construction and the contractor had fun working it into the trimwork.

Corey, Yours looks great indeed!!!

Mark:  Nice!  Sorry I couldn't make out the roadbed in the pics.  Sounds nice and smooth, running great.  The only noise I hear is the engine.  I will occasionally turn off the sound to all four of mine and just listen to the cars going over the tracks.  Great stuff.

Jerry

Jerry, Thank you!  I do the same, turn off the sound.  As much as sound has made a significant improvement in my enjoyment of model trains from my HO and N scale days, I like to turn it off again too and I just get the sound of cars going over the track joints.  

This topic has motivated me to spend part of this rainy day ripping out the offending second track on the two walls with jogs and reallign some of the remaining GarGraves.  I'll post more when I get a train back running.

Sorry, Ive got no number offhand. I haven't worked with them daily in many years now. My fav old suppliers don't even exist anymore.

   But it's not a part with exacting needs here, efficiency isn't a goal. Most general purpose diodes or BR are fine (they will say Gen.Pur.). 35v or higher and using a higher amp rating will simply mean it stays cooler (& usually be larger).

I rob these out of garbage bound electronics all the time and seldom bother to even look at what I have, relying on size alone to judge amps on diodes. Bridge Rectifiers I tend to look up for a quick check but most are for 120v and the item itself gives away the amp cabability; printed on the items if I have doubt. (If a DVD has a max draw of 4amp at 120v I know the BR is 4amp or more (likely 6a) and can easily handle our 25v max. (conventional)

I removed the second track that gave me trouble and realigned some of the GarGraves track.  I tried putting in switches for a siding, and it got too frustrating in the small space so I opted for one track for now.  Here is the latest.

New engine, that's being fixed, is my 1st engine with sound. I too come from building and running HO / N layouts.

It's nice to be able to control sound output from a controller. Once I idled it into bdrm, then full volume along with horn. It will wake you from a dead sleep. Well the wife quickly sat up...

So, anyone ever think about doing this? N scale track fits nicely between one side of rails. Run 2 different sizes of trains. Wonder how many cars the mini SD70 would pull...  Just for laughs.

Poll wouldn't see it up on the shelf.

Hey Mark, how did you get a 1:28 video in there?  What format did you use?  I take train videos with my phone, and the format is MP4.  Anything over 50 seconds puts me over the 100M limit, so I have to do the link to Youtube.  Let me know when you get a chance.

Jerry

JerryG posted:

Corey, very cool.  You're running an SD70?  Do you know what the radius of the curves are?  I'd love to try one out on my curves.  I have one tight corner, which is 036.  Not sure if it would make it consistently.

Jerry

It is an SD70MAC. The curves are O48. I have not run the engine on O36. MTH says the minimum is O42. 

JerryG posted:

Hey Mark, how did you get a 1:28 video in there?  What format did you use?  I take train videos with my phone, and the format is MP4.  Anything over 50 seconds puts me over the 100M limit, so I have to do the link to Youtube.  Let me know when you get a chance.

Jerry

Jerry,

Yes, you have to take your url link from YouTube and Embed it in the Forum page.  Click on the icon at the top of your page you post from.

Then you simply copy the url and paste it in the field called source.  I never tried changing the default dimensions that come up when you paste.

Then click Ok.  

There is a tutorial on it somewhere in the Forum instructions too, but I didn't hunt it up this time.

Ok, thanks.  I'll try it.  I figured that since I embedded the link, I wouldn't have to paste the source.

Testing.  Yep.  It works.  Thanks, Mark.

Corey:  Thanks for the info.  Good to know, doubt if I'll try it.

Jerry

You are now an expert, Jerry!    Yes, I don't understand the peculiarities of the forum, that's the software guys from Hoopla's thing.

The video looks great!  Lots of action!

Finally, after several weeks, got engine back from warranty work. Seemed like it would have been faster just to send me a new engine. The mainboard had to be replaced, then everything for the speed control part of it. But..... when I put it on the track, and set it to my DCS system. The front ditch lights are wired wrong. And no wig wag when horn is in use like before. Ugh the thought of sending back again, and another wait period. But I know when I have peeps over, first thing someone is going to say is ... hey you got a light out.  Luckily the tech I sent it to is opposite side of town. Already responded and waiting for a reply back. Ill take road trip just to get it fixed. Now yes, I could prollly fix this myself, but I really dont want to open this up. Nice to have engine back, but oops, something got overlooked.

Tugboat, Is that ditch light wig wag a selection on the settings of the DCS remote?

I dont have the full system... well not yet. I just use the basic Remote commander. Only run one engine. New from the LHS both ditch lights on with cab lights forward direction. Wig wag when horn button is pressed for several seconds, then steady on. Reverse, they both should be off.

Okay, I got it!

Finally had some free time to start putting up my fencing.

Stained all the posts, then started to install. After I finish all the posts (2 rooms to go) , then will be time to run the cable thru all the post holes.

Also bottom pic is led strip update. 45.00 per 32.8ft roll from Amazon. Thsee sets can be controlled via app on your phone and WiFi to any color / intensity... much better than what I had. 

Mth engine fixed again - this time was the 2/3 rail selector switch - will be back next week.

Well I guess I should add.. straight runs are 3ft lengths with posts every 4". How I did the turns was cut 2" piece wood strips, and mount one post to each block. Then all held in place by a few counter sunk screws.

Woah!!!  That LED lighting looks great!!!  I'm going to think about doing that on mine.  With my dark walls, I still need a light backdrop as well.

Tugboat, nice, finished look to the shelves.  Those posts must be a chore, look real good. 

Can you give specifics on the LED lighting?  Looks really cool.  I'm happy with mine on the overhead, but yours looks so good, I might be interested in other uses.   Specifically, how are the strips powered, wired to power, controlled by a phone app?

Jerry

StreetScape shadowboxes are great for shelf layouts! The heights are 8" to 12". Flats can be ordered, too.

The flats look great Doug!  Thank you!  I will have to keep them in mind for the regular layout I hope to start building in January since with my low ceiling, I only have 7” to work with on my Ceiling Central RR.  Of course I could cut them down at the bottom since that is hard to see with 12-inch shelves anyway.  Hmmmm...

Thanks. These are the kits I bought. 2 sets did my living room. If your good with a solder gun, can easily make extensions yourself with networking patch cables. Small solid copper wire. Easy to solder to tabs where you cut... no need to buy the snap on clips, or limited extension wires. 

When I get home, I'll post a few pics.

Free app called Magic Home. You can name each led strip device. Contol all as a group, or individual. Any color and brightness levels. And control them away from home as they hook up to your WiFi router... powered by a small plug in 120v outlet transformer. 4 pin connector from adapter to strip. The old set I had used a bulky converter like what a laptop uses...

My layout is 054 turns. Strips don't have any flex in them, so I just have a raised hump between the leds to make the curve. I didn't want to make 7 cuts and solder joints in curves in lovong room section. Led points straight up. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d...S18RS1K4U1&psc=1

And yes the posts. Plenty of netflix while at the bench drill in hobby room. Made  a jig to cut them, and then drill all the holes. Still takes some time. Stained the posts with gunstock color. Go back and paint the base. Then the fun part of running the steel braided wire the length of layout. 2x times. 

Thank you for the link!  That does look like just the thing I’m looking for.  I’ll have to keep this link until after the new year!  

Here is a few other pics.. You could also use rope lights as suggested to me... wait for end of holidays, and buy them at discount when stores push to get rid of whats left.  Seen plenty of them at a store called At Home...  I just wanted to change light colors.

This is how I installed them in the curve. Raised hump on right side between leds. Bottom pic is the WiFi and LED power module. Nice and small.

Tugboat, I was planning on rope lights, but because of waiting so long there are now many LED options available.  Thank you for the photographs 

Your welcome. My walls are not white. I think color is called pewter gray. Ceiling is white.

Thanks Tugboat.  I checked out the link.  Looks pretty cool.  As soon as I figure out a use for it, I may give it a shot.  I have used several LED strips on the train to light buildings, and four full strips outside on the deck and gazebo.  I agree that they're easy to work with.  They never stick well, so I use silicon outside and various methods for the train to keep them where they're supposed to be. 

The layout is looking good...

Jerry

Well, my fencing was too close to the track, and 70' cars would hit the posts in the turns... So back to the thinking chair... cardboard templates transferred to wood.  My dad's wood workshop,  made our own crown molding pieces.   Little sanding for a good fit, then clamped in place while the glue dries. 

Once all installed, just gotta paint, stain posts, run the cable... finally...

That works! lol

Ever since I fired my “domestic CEO” I’ve thought about building a shelf layout. I’ve got a few pieces that need 0-72 or larger curves. They won’t operate on my layout in the bonus room. I can’t build a shelf layout in there because of the hip roof. I’d like it in my living room, but there is a stairwell to contend with. Have any of you suspended long (6’-8’) sections of track from a ceiling? If I don’t use turnouts, is there a legitimate reason for a guard rail? I can’t remember the last derailment I had. How many drops do you have? Do your feet get tired from standing on your tip-toes while trying to get a better look? Is there a strong urge to create a diorama along the ceiling next to the track or will you leave it painted like the rest of your walls? I won’t start on this until I have it ALL figured out. 

I regularly visit a Chicago area hobby shop that has an O gauge oval completely suspended from the ceiling, probably about 6' x 20'.  Runs on a coated wire mesh supported by metal rods attached to the ceiling and looks great.  And, the choice about fencing to prevent derailment falls depends on how you feel about risking your equipment with a 6' or higher fall.  Fencing doesn't have to be obtrusive (just a couple of wires paralleling the track with adequate fence post Height and placement) to protect against a very random accident.

Chuck

My loft entrance is 8' wide and I span it with 2 brackets that are bolted to a 2x4 crossmember over the ceiling joists, if your not able to access the ceiling, you can use bolts that screw into the joists. I did not do wide curves due to keeping the intrusion into the room to a minimum but do have 2 lines circling the loft.