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Not sure if this is the correct forum to post in, but I am repainting a Lionel 218 shell and could use some advice. This is really an exercise in developing some bodywork/paint skills, so the end result is not critical, but I would definitely like to learn the right way without exploring all the wrong ways first!!!

I have already stripped the old paint using an overnight alcohol soak and a toothbrush.

1. What is the best way to repair minor gouges/scratches? There are not many, the worst is in this pic

IMG_3996

2. I would also like to know the best technique for getting rid of heat stamped impressions on the shell prior to painting

IMG_3997

3. What is the best or easiest way to repair this rear door? (don't ask what happened, I don't know!!) I would like to make it as neat a repair as I can manage, however I realize it's pretty badly damaged. For that reason, I would not be opposed to modeling some sort of hack repair job, like corrugated sheet metal, or even simulated wood slats or something similar.

IMG_4000

4. Then I would like to know if a repaint like this should be hit with a primer first? Please keep in mind that I have only spray paint cans, no airbrush.

5. Final Paint - Ultimately I will apply decals and maybe a dry transfer or two depending on what I can find. I haven't decided what the final paint scheme will be, nor have I decided if the final paint will be shiny or satin, but more than likely satin. I'm not trying to replicate any particular Lionel model, just want a good paint appearance, then will ask more questions later about decals and/or dry transfers. 

Thanks!

George

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For the door repair, cut a piece of styrene the same size as the whole door, and glue it over the broken door. I would lightly sand the previously applied lettering, like the “Santa are”. I would use gloss paint, as decals adhere best to gloss. Then you can too coat it with flat, semi gloss, gloss, or whatever. JohnA 

You could also Dremel out the rest of the door and replace the entire thing with styrene.  Dremel as close as you feel comfortable to the frame of the door, then file the surfaces flat.  Then make a new door and glue it in place.  You may even be able to buy a door that will work.

You could also back the hole with a piece of plastic or brass glued in place and use JB Weld to fill the hole, then sand it to the contours of the door.  Be careful, JB Weld is some sticky stuff and will get where you don't want it.

I have a sanding wheel for my Dremel, nothing more than a bunch of what looks like flaps of sandpaper around a wheel.  You could use something like that to buff out the scratch, just use light strokes.  Or even some fine grit sandpaper.

Thank you John and Bob! I like your approach John, because it sounds easier than trying to match up half-a-door! However, as I'm sure you guys know, there's a screw hole that sits in that missing piece - the screw that holds the shell on. So to avoid a large gap between a cover-up piece of plastic and the metal tab, I tend to lean towards the JB Weld solution - just not sure how I can do any sanding in that small space. Hmmm, wonder where I could find a door?

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
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