SHS 2-8-0

Try replacing the post with a long bolt. Head of the bolt in the cabin and the nut under the floor. The long part of the bolt that sticks out of the bottom is your new post. Use flat washers to spread the load. This is a last resort type of fix.

The factory fix for this is described here: http://www.nasg.org/Gallery/Pr...arPinReplacement.pdf

I believe the parts are still available from Dave's Twacks and Twains

@FlyerRich posted:

The factory fix for this is described here: http://www.nasg.org/Gallery/Pr...arPinReplacement.pdf

I believe the parts are still available from Dave's Twacks and Twains

Thanks FlyerRich, I ordered a replacement piece from Shapeways.  It is nylon and supposed to be good.  I have two more 2-8-0s and I would rather have brass, I'll have to give Clay a call to find out if he as any left.  The step by step procedure will be handy.

Thanks,

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

The SHS 2-8-0 is a beautiful and great running loco, but the drawbar post, smoke unit, headlamp contacts, and drive gear can require attention over the years.  Thanks for the NASG article and info, also the fact nylon replacements are available at Shapeways.  I haven't repaired a 2-8-0 drawbar post in a long while.  My MEC 2-8-0 drawbar pin or post is still intact (thankfully) but years ago I think the post on my WM unit broke off fairly cleanly at the base without cracking the under-frame as shown in the NASG example.  I think I repaired that one by gluing the post back down into the "socket" it left behind, then slipped a plastic collar over the post and glued that down at the base of the post to reinforce it.  The collar was thin enough not to adversely limit vertical travel of the bar on the post, but thick and large enough in OD to provide additional strength and stability to the post.  It never broke again for me and as far as I know is still intact.  (I converted the MEC to ERR TMCC and sounds, and ran the WM on DCC.  The original Locomatic sound system was pretty bad.  Chuffing sounded like a horse trotting, but Don T did the best he could with what was available at the time and he provided an option that made using DCC pretty easy to do.  I still have the MEC and sold the WM a few years ago.)

@Sgaugian posted:

but years ago I think the post on my WM unit broke off fairly cleanly at the base without cracking the under-frame as shown in the NASG example.  I think I repaired that one by gluing the post back down into the "socket" it left behind, then slipped a plastic collar over the post and glued that down at the base of the post to reinforce it.   

That is what happened with mine, just the post.  I did order the Shapeways part, but like you, I don't need to do the whole NASG cut-out.  However the MEK plastic glue does nothing to the SHS plastic.  Can you tell me what you used for glue?  I don't what to have to cut the frame apart if I can avoid it.

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

Apparently I posted an 8-step procedure on how to do this on 2/13/17 at 10:40 am, but I can not locate it with search (I found a print out of it in one of my binders).  In a nutshell I gently wiped the bottom of the post and hole that it left with 91% isopropyl and used Loctite Professional super glue.  It bonds stronger and more types of materials than their (and other brands of) regular super glue.  Glue the post being careful to seat it in a way such that the profile of the bottom of the post mates with the profile of the divot left in the base plate.   Let it dry well.  Then using the collar that came with your 2-8-0, bevel the bottom inside edge of the collar a little bit with a 1/4” drill to accommodate any fillet from the glue at the base of the post.  Check for a solid fit before gluing the collar.  Gently rough up mating surfaces on the post, base plate, and inside of the collar with 400 or 600 grit to aid adhesion and wipe clean with 91%.  When you glue, apply it with a Microbrush around the bottom of the post and base plate not on the collar.  Then slip the collar on the post and push it all the way down.   You lose the original benefit of the rotating collar but gain the repair.  Let me know if you locate my original post.  Thanks.  

Okay, I have the Loctite super glue on order.  I have also ordered Bill Lane's Shapeways replacement, plus emailed Clay at Dave's Twacks & Twains to inquire about brass replacement parts.

Overall, I'm not the crazy about super glues, especially when impact is involved.  But if it is working for you, I am willing to try it.

I have two other 2-8-0s, having the replacement parts on hand will cover me for the future.  I have the replacement gears for all and need to replace the gear on one of them.

Thank you Dave for the well written instructions,

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

You're welcome Tom.  Be sure it's Loctite Professional super glue.  They also make just Super Glue.  Both are good, but I have come to prefer the performance of their Pro.  If it's just the post that sheared off without cracks or other damage to the base plate you should be OK.  I noticed in my 2017 post that I reported success with this on mine and well as those of customers, so I've done more of them this way than I recalled.  So far mine held and I'm assuming theirs have as well (no feedback otherwise).