Side Rod Screws...

Hit them with a little Loctite.

But don't get carried away with he Loctite. Probably a wee dab of Goo on the bottom of the screw would do it.

Also - it may not happen again if you've snugged everything down. Checking your machinery regularly - the old once-over awareness thing - is never a bad idea.

Many of us forget that these models are not only "playthings" - they are functioning machines, and as such need the oil, radiator and tire pressures checked occasionally. 

If I may add....don't hit the back wheel bolts with Loctite...it'll make tire changing miserable if one bolt breaks off in the wheel....as D500 suggested make preventive maintenance part of your session...its kinda fun doing a fastener check every now and then 

Yeah, I guess it's something I'll just have to keep an eye on. I was just wondering if this is a common thing, or perhaps specific to this model.

Mark in Oregon 

I find Loctite to be too powerful - even the weak stuff - for the tiny screws on our wheels. Instead, I use clear fingernail polish. Keeps the screws from coming loose, but easily disassembles with a nut driver.

   Locktite red is too strong for most small hardware. Blue is better, but can still be a pain on small bolts and fine threads. I think it's purple that is for really fine stuff prone to damage. (Green is penetrating, large bolt, and bearing lock if I recall right [too many brands and colors, lol... And mind you color is only for general I.D.. The number is what counts (e.g. there are more than one red locktites made by locktite.)

   That said, I mostly only use "regular" red. Blue on #4 and smaller + #8 or smaller with fine threads. I don't goop it on; just a few of the last threads is enough. (For studs, I go across the top of the nut and up 2-3 threads after install. ) . If in doubt, use the purple. If that fails, go to blue. Fails?; red. Etc.etc.

  Just a little heat softens the thread locker enough for removal (like 5-10 seconds with a bic lighter or very hot soldering iron (cover in foil if the tip may leave solder where it isn't wanted)

  I have had to heat red for removal from raw wood, that's how hot it needs to be (not very).  Even soft, nothing is going to come off without help. Red locktite works well; even softened.

I'm not saying it will come off with fingers; but a small machine screw likely won't snap before the red gives way, like it would if still cold. 

I'm not suggesting you try, but if you ever tasted the stuff you'd wonder if the secret ingredient for "sticky and hard", wasn't just sugar or a syrup     

The purple Loctite is a good choice for these screws, it's not at all hard to remove, but they don't come loose by themselves.

Thanks guys. I'm guessing since there is a consensus as to which type of Loctite to use, that at some point you must have had this issue yourselves.

Here's something else: while looking for further info about this loco, I discovered a thread here that talked about "Legacy Shudder". That's exactly how I would describe what I'm experiencing; I turn on power (remember that I'm just using a straight AC MRC pack); the loco makes a kind of sequencing sound, the drivers barely inch forward and that's all it does. I then have to shut off, and run through the neutral-reverse thing. It then runs in reverse; I go back to forward and it (usually) will then run just fine...until I shut it off again. 

I turned off the smoke unit (hoping that might help), but that didn't seem to make a difference. If this is not fixable, I may consider gutting the thing and just running it on DC power, but obviously I'd rather keep it intact, since I rather do enjoy the smoking feature...suggestions?

Mark in Oregon