Simple question about splicing 022 switches

For the switches, you can run just one wire and daisy chain the fixed voltage plugs by stripping just enough insulation to trap or loop the wire under each screw.

HOWEVER,  just the 22 bulbs of the 11 switches at 16 volts(a pretty good setting for the 022) will exceed the approximately 4.5 amp output limit of the 1033, before you even throw the first switch.

Bob is right. No way a 1033 will be up to that task. You could change out all the 432 and 1445 bulbs to led substitutes, which will dramatically reduce the power demand. Also note that 20-25 feet is about max run length for #18 wire without having too much voltage loss and sluggish switch action for the ones that are farthest from your power source. This also depends on how long your remote controller wires are of course, since the power needed to throw the switch must also run both ways to the controller and back.

Rod

ADCX Rob posted:

For the switches, you can run just one wire and daisy chain the fixed voltage plugs by stripping just enough insulation to trap or loop the wire under each screw.

HOWEVER,  just the 22 bulbs of the 11 switches at 16 volts(a pretty good setting for the 022) will exceed the approximately 4.5 amp output limit of the 1033, before you even throw the first switch.

Daisy chain - brilliant! Just the simple solution I wouldn’t have come up with on my own. 

Ha, sounds like another ZW might be in my future!

Rod Stewart posted:

Bob is right. No way a 1033 will be up to that task. You could change out all the 432 and 1445 bulbs to led substitutes, which will dramatically reduce the power demand. Also note that 20-25 feet is about max run length for #18 wire without having too much voltage loss and sluggish switch action for the ones that are farthest from your power source. This also depends on how long your remote controller wires are of course, since the power needed to throw the switch must also run both ways to the controller and back.

Rod

The runs will all be fairly short, so I think the gauge is ok. Might go for 16 instead. 

Any recommendations on where I can find the proper LEDs? My switch bulbs are both screw base as well as some bayonet style ones.  

Thanks for the help!

Town and Country hobbies is one source for red and green led subs for the 432's as well as the 1445's. They are not cheap, but you only need to buy them once, unlike incandescents. They work great with an ac supply, and as was said, 16 vac is a good supply setting.

Rod

What size wire did you use from the transformer to the track?

I used 14 all the way around for that. 

CoastsideKevin posted:

Ha, sounds like another ZW might be in my future!

Use ZWs for running trains - pick up a bargain KW and use A-U or B-U for your switch circuit.

ADCX Rob posted:

CoastsideKevin posted:

Ha, sounds like another ZW might be in my future!

Use ZWs for running trains - pick up a bargain KW and use A-U or B-U for your switch circuit.

Another great suggestion. Found one on eBay just now. Says it is tested and working, not missing any parts, $75 shipped. Seems reasonable. 

CoastsideKevin posted:

 ...$75 shipped. Seems reasonable. 

Yes it does.

The KW is only OK for running trains because of the throttle & whistle control design(but I like the direction buttons) and the otherwise poor selection of fixed voltage ranges, but when used as an accessory transformer it is a real star with 3 fixed voltage ranges and 4 usable variable ranges. As long as it works, it doesn't even really matter how it looks or if the handles are busted up(and a lot of them are).