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I am trying to get the smoker working properly on this 8602 switcher. With everything disassembled and cleaned, I fired up just the smoke unit and could hear some sizzling inside the smoke chamber. After a few (5-10) seconds, I saw some smoke coming out of the hole where one of the power leads enter the smoke chamber (red arrow.) After another 10 seconds or so, I saw smoke appearing at the stack. However, when I manually actuated the flapper valve, no puffs of any sort. It looked like there were a few small puffs down by the hole where the power lead enters (red arrow), but that's it. I took the flapper mechanism off and cleaned/examined it, but it seems to work normally, i.e. no sticking of any kind and small puffs of air came out when the piston was pushed.

So here are my questions:

  1. Should I see smoke coming from the hole where the power lead enters the smoke chamber (red arrow)?
  2. Is this throwaway unit, or repairable? Only one number appears on it, 236-54. It does not appear any further disassembly of the smoke chamber is possible.
  3. The smell you ask? While it does smoke, it smells more like something burning than the smoke smell I remember! Normal for this unit? Or am I just running low on fluid and starting to melt things?

IMG_9694IMG_9705

8602 smoke unit

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  • 8602 smoke unit
Original Post

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The 236-54 is an original Postwar Lionel part number. Don't know the number of your modern era smoke unit.

The Postwar version of that smoke unit wasn't designed to be repaired, although I have had one apart.
I would guess the same is true of yours.

I suggest checking the resistance across the heater in the smoke unit. You can use the bulb terminals because they are wired in parallel with the heater (bulb out).

Repair

I have the lionel 243 and 244 steam engines with smoke units similar to yours with both leads coming of the light assembly not made to come apart as they are assembled and glued at factory but can be rebuilt luckily.

Since these are old the glue was dried and hard easily scraped off new element installed  and JB welded back.

Yours leaking from one of the leads can be fixed as the glue sealing it must have dried out and cracked open.

I would open unit and replace the element inside test before gluing back together and glue it all back together .

Elements are cheap depending on where they are purchased.

Last edited by Dieseler

I used alcohol to clean the exterior, didn't really think I would be able to clean the interior, but it's worth a shot - then glue, eh? I would have thought those were sonic welds, but I will certainly give disassembly and resealing a shot. I would REALLY like to see if the element is super-burned before I go to the trouble to seal & reinstall. I'll get that done before Lionel's 50% parts sale ends!!!

Thanks ya'll !!

GeoPeg posted:

I used alcohol to clean the exterior, didn't really think I would be able to clean the interior, but it's worth a shot - then glue, eh? I would have thought those were sonic welds, but I will certainly give disassembly and resealing a shot. I would REALLY like to see if the element is super-burned before I go to the trouble to seal & reinstall. I'll get that done before Lionel's 50% parts sale ends!!!

Thanks ya'll !!

The correct part number for this smoke unit is 600-8041-050, which uses the GE 161 light bulb.

They shouldn't smell better or worse than any other Lionel smoke unit. If it works OK, I'd leave it alone.

And you are correct... they are sonic welded together -- not glued.

TRW

Jim Sandman posted:

I've used denatured alcohol and let it soak down the hole to clean these out before.  Tip it upside down and let it drain.  Usually with some discolored brown coming out.  (Let dry all the way before applying power again!!!).   If that doesn't work I just replace - Lionel part #:

6108738250SMOKE UNIT / STARTER 4-4-2 W/O LED / 16 OHM $14.50

 

Jim

Thanks for that. I was about to search for the resitance value.  I have a home brew smoke unit in a 9053 just had its old, used PW element burn twice (I managed a repair, but after a few windings are gone they are toast)

  If you don't have easy access to a good electronics shop, that sale can't really be beat.

If you do have access, a wire wound resistor (16Ω here, it varies by loco) with the outer coating carefully removed till the wire shows, should work as an element.

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