I am about to start soldering wire leades to my Atlas O nickel silver track. Any recommendations on what type of flux and solder to use to make it an easier process?
Original Post
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Tixflux works great for cleaning the track in the area where you are going to solder.
Use a soldering gun with plenty of grunt; like a Weller 100/140 watt at least.
You need lots of heat for track soldering.
Rod
We use standard rosin core solder and a decent soldering iron. I use either an 80W Weller iron or my 100/140W gun, no problem soldering it. Remember to clean off the area to solder, I'm lazy and just hit it with the Dremel cutoff wheel just to brighten the area to solder.
if you already know this..take no offense..but be sure to have a wet sponge to clean the tip of the iron..and keep it tinned when not in use..I see so many so called "experienced" techs, fail to use a wet sponge..then they wonder why their irons fail...
Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:
...Remember to clean off the area to solder, I'm lazy and just hit it with the Dremel cutoff wheel just to brighten the area to solder.
AMEN. This is a LOT easier than using a messy flux.
Here is a tip for weller soldering gun owners: On occasion I find it helpful to loosen and retighten the tip nuts.
Originally Posted by 1drummer:
if you already know this..take no offense..but be sure to have a wet sponge to clean the tip of the iron..and keep it tinned when not in use.
I've stopped using the sponge, I use the bronze "Brillo pad" looking tip cleaner, it works great for cleaning the tip. Just plunge the tip in and it cleans off the excess solder. The my Hakko iron came with the same tip cleaning material in the base, I guess they thought it was a good idea as well. I also use the DeoxIT Tip Tinner & Cleaner, it works great to keep the tip tinned for a longer period than trying to do it with solder.
I have flux of several kinds, but I never seem to find a need for it.
The Weller soldering gun tip is a good one. For the folks that have the new one with the set screws, this is necessary a lot more often. The set screws were a really bad idea, and I'm glad I have the gun with the old style nuts.
I love the Brillo Pad. I got a couple at the Dayton Ham Fest a few years ago and like them. The cup ends up with many balls of solder in it under the pad after a few weeks or so of use...to be disposed of with care for the environment 
.
60/40 or 63/37 rosin core solder in 1/8 diameter. Clean the track with a wire wheel in a dremel, put flux on the track. Tin the clean tip on your iron with solder. Heat the track where you have the flux and feed a bit more solder onto the spot. Flux on the wire then tin the wire. Once the wire is tinned, put a tad more flux on the wire, a tad more flux on the soldered spot on the track, place the wire to the soldered spot on the track, heat and when the solder is molten on the track, remove the iron. You have a nice shiny joint. Any hazing means a cold joint and cold solder joints could fail. Piece of cake once you get the feel for it. I solder wires on unitack with the plastic base (similar to fastrack) without melting the plastic. An adjustable heat station is key. to good results. To protect the plastic ties, wet some paper towel pieces and place on the ties nearby.
1/8" solder is a bit large IMO. I like something more along the lines of the .031 that I use.
I first tin the iron with a bit of solder, then apply it to the track. This transfers the heat faster and allows me to solder it with less heat damage to adjacent plastic ties.
Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:
I first tin the iron with a bit of solder, then apply it to the track. This transfers the heat faster and allows me to solder it with less heat damage to adjacent plastic ties.
Me too!! See my suggestions above!
"I have flux of several kinds, but I never seem to find a need for it."
I'm confused by this. I thought you had to use flux or the solder won't stick. Is there a different kind of solder that doesn't require the use of flux?
You miss my point, rosin core solder has the flux in the core. I was referring to adding additional flux.
Solder will actually bond just fine to really clean metal without flux, the flux is actually to break down any oxide on the surface of the materials being soldered. If it's "really clean" with no surface oxides, you could solder it without flux.
Thanks John!!
Try not to overheat the rail if your solder won't flow. Your probably not clean enough when this happens. Otherwise the first tie plate (plastic) area will melt and loosen the tie. Been there done that.
