Some Gargraves questions

No need to scrub off the black, just use a cleaner like mineral spirits to clean off the chemical residue on the rails.  I noticed that things ran like crap when I first laid my new Gargraves track, but then I notice all the oily residue on the rails.  Clean that off and all will be well.  My center rail is still black, trains run fine.

Thanks for that John.

Any ideas about the other issues?

John

I had Gargraves switches for years, and had to modify and tinker with each one to get satisfactory operation.

Personally I would use Ross switches, I sold all my Gargraves switches but I sure like Gargraves track . Never a problem with the black center rail. I use all flex track. I'm on my fourth Gargraves layout.

@Craftech posted:

2.  The center rails of both the switches and the track seem to be more difficult to insert pins into.  The 801 O Gauge transition pin s are especially difficult.  I had to cut the Gargraves end of those pins shorter to get them in without bending them.

I tapped the pins into the Gargraves track and Ross switches with a small tack hammer.  I just seated them on the bumps in the center of the pin.  I never used the tubular track transition pin, but I'm assuming I could have done the same thing.  You can slightly enlarge the track opening, but if you get carried away, you risk poor connections.  I tried to minimize any enlargement and just went for the tightest fit of the pins I could get.  When you cut the track, you do have to dress the end and slightly open it up.

@Craftech posted:

3.  The center rail of every switch moves when I try to push the track and switch sections together.  If I open the bottom with a small screwdriver it helps, but the center rail end is still tighter than the other two and then you have to crimp it.  I am used to tubular which is a lot beefier.

I didn't have this issue with the Ross switches, so I'm not sure exactly what you're seeing.  I'm guessing the center rail isn't as secure as the Ross switches that have the rails staked on each tie.

I know the rails on the Gargraves flex track will move tapping in the pins, even long sections.  I would just go to the other end and tap them back into alignment.  You may have to see if you can move the rail back after you insert the pins and connect to the track.

I grind the nubs in the center of the pins off and sometimes grind a short taper on the pins to make it easier to get them in.

Thanks for the ideas.  Those helped.

John

The nubs are there for a reason, so that the pin doesn't slide all the way into one side of the joint when assembling the track.  As for grinding the ends, just holding the pin on the track end and lightly tapping the end has worked for the hundreds of pins I just installed for my latest layout, I never had to resort to grinding the ends.  YMMV