Drawbar failures on my MTH locomotives

I'm not a fan of the MTH wireless drawbar, but this is the first I have heard of the failure mode you have seen.  So maybe it's not a common problem and maybe that's why no one has produced an auxiliary drawbar.

Critical dimensions indeed!  Trying to exactly match the MTH drawbar and share the load sounds like a fool's errand!

A better plan would be to make the drawbar that would carry the load and just do a thinner PCB with the connectors to carry the electrical connections, and it would have a larger hole so that it wasn't trying to share the load.

However, I'm the same as Bob, this is a failure mode that I haven't seen, and I get to see a lot of broken MTH stuff.

I have several locomotives with the wireless draw bar and I run long trains with several grades and I have not seen this issue. I had one drawbar go bad but that was due to mine improper handling of the locomotive tender combination. So I have to agree with GRJ and Bob on this one also.

50% of my Std Gauge 384's with the wireless drawbar are dead. Really bad execution of a decent idea.

Steve

Have had the same problem with 2-6 -4 PRR steam.  The keeper on the tender keeps coming loose have to shut down, power down the Z-4000 put fingers under tender push up on keeper hear a snap then it will run fine. Run through a lot of switches.  Asked MTH to send a new keeper while under warranty they never did.

PRR - A drawbar holder (MTH PN FB-0000037) or a wire tie should keep the drawbar well connected to the tender.  If you search for the PN at MTH it comes up empty, but that is the correct PN.

Unfortunately, the disconnecting issues with MTH steam engine drawbars are very common and have been well documented over the years on various Forum threads. The design was faulty and seems to occur most often on larger engines. For example, I have a Proto-3 J1a which has had drawbar issues from day one. I sent back it back to MTH several times, but the issue was never resolved. I had quite a time on one occasion getting it out of a long tunnel when the drawbar loosened. That was not fun.

The plastic connector, which MTH developed a few years ago as the "fix", helped to some extent with the disconnecting issue, but caused a new problem, as the engine commenced to derail because the connector was too tight. When I loosened it, the disconnecting issue commenced anew.

Alas, the J1a has been permanently moved to a storage shelf. Sad, as it was an awesome engine when it worked.

Pat

I just use the vinyl tubing fix that was brought up years ago and never had a problem since, and never a broken drawbar. Oh by the way I do long trains and grades with long  tunnels, double head locomotives, and rear helpers.

Alternate Fix for PS3 Wireless Drawbar | O Gauge Railroading On Line Forum (ogaugerr.com)

half way down is a post from Ralph4014

"I agree that MTH should do something about it. I like your solution Scott. Here's antoher idea. I used silicone fuel tubing from RC planes and cars. With the small diameter and the silicone's ability to stretch it makes a pretty good colar and it's non conductive.

"

Thus, the reason why I own mainly postwar stuff, lol! I've heard of this issue, but never have seen it personally.