SOUND/SPEAKER

Hi,  this is a known problem with some of the earlier speakers. I would not power the engine up again until you replace the speaker and remove the flakes. The flakes can damage the board. Do a search and find posts with suitable replacements. I have a couple waiting for speaker replacement.

Bob

If the speaker is flaking apart, then it must be replaced BEOFRE you attempt to run that engine again!!……So first replace the speaker, and be sure none of the flaking  metal coating is loose flying around the boards. Then try your engine. If there is further damage to the audio portion of the board, ie; the amp, some techs can repair that section……I’ll leave that part of the procedure up to them for explanation…..

Pat

I have read the replies - this is a short thread. I also have 7 windows open, that refer to or reference MTH speaker replacement, and sources....on this site alone! There seems to be an infinite amount of info to digest on sound/speakers and replacement! Gentlemen....it is greatly confusing. Ohms, amps, watts, frequencies, Lionel vs. MTH quality, and a mess of other material. One link did take me to a bay site that shows this one: "MTH Replacement Speaker ProtoSound 2.0 5 Volt 2" 16 ohm Steam Diesel 50mm Watt" after I used this info as a search on the web: ""MTH Replacement Speaker ProtoSound 2.0 5 Volt 2" 16 ohm Steam Diesel 50mm Watt" $16 bucks delivered....but I still don't know if it is the replacement for the flaking magnet one in my Chessie Steam Special loco! Another link took me to this...but it is no longer available.... VECO ROUND SPKR 0.2 W 50CS16G-M75ND  Isn't that a mouthful of crud?!

I can see where newbies to the hobby get frustrated and lost amid all the information.  Does one turn to MTH, or go aftermarket? If AM, what will work? Posts that date from 2022 back to before 2013, and still no definitive answer - not to me anyway.

Most of us just want to run the train, and have factory sound come out for effect, we are not looking for dolby digital theater quality from Star Wars here. Seems that could be gotten by having the file blue tooth/WI-FI to a good sound system. Is that the future? Please forgive my frustration, but I am trying to look at this from the point of view of  the basic user. Perhaps I am way off base here.

While I can appreciate the audiophile in the advanced users, many others new to this, may not. Will things get easier as new users enter the market, or will they be driven away by advanced technology that is supposed to make things "better"? It is easier to replace an E unit on an old Lionel loco than a simple speaker in a modern MTH.

@cngw posted:

While I can appreciate the audiophile in the advanced users, many others new to this, may not. Will things get easier as new users enter the market, or will they be driven away by advanced technology that is supposed to make things "better"? It is easier to replace an E unit on an old Lionel loco than a simple speaker in a modern MTH.

This hobby has taught its participants new things for over 120 years and it doesn't appear that it will ever stop doing so.

In my opinion it is truly the original source for today's concept called S.T.E.M.  That is, teaching technology to today's newbies so that they can build on the past in order to build a better future.

There are, there will be, and there always have been, things to learn and fellow hobbyists to teach them.

Don't be afraid.  We're here on this forum to help.

To avoid being overwhelmed always start by looking up the original parts.  If that doesn't help then proceed to the more detailed stuff on this forum, but only if you need to.

For your present situation go to MTH's parts website to start.  You'll need the product number for your Chessie Steam Special to do this.  I think it's 20-3197-1, but it would be nice to be sure.  Can you confirm this?

Next go to www.mthpartsandsales.com, select "Exploded View Parts Diagrams", and type in your product number.

From the search results click on "Electronic Parts":

You'll get an exploded diagram and a parts listing:

Look for the speaker that matches yours.

Good luck and let us know if you need more help.

Mike

@cngw posted:

One link did take me to a bay site that shows this one: "MTH Replacement Speaker ProtoSound 2.0 5 Volt 2" 16 ohm Steam Diesel 50mm Watt" after I used this info as a search on the web: ""MTH Replacement Speaker ProtoSound 2.0 5 Volt 2" 16 ohm Steam Diesel 50mm Watt" $16 bucks delivered....but I still don't know if it is the replacement for the flaking magnet one in my Chessie Steam Special loco! Another link took me to this...but it is no longer available.... VECO ROUND SPKR 0.2 W 50CS16G-M75ND  Isn't that a mouthful of crud?!

I can see where newbies to the hobby get frustrated and lost amid all the information.  Does one turn to MTH, or go aftermarket? If AM, what will work? Posts that date from 2022 back to before 2013, and still no definitive answer - not to me anyway.

You want a definitive answer?  Yes, the $16 replacement will work in your application.

Probably a better quality replacement would be this Visaton K 50 WP - 16 ohm.

That is as good as it can get GRJ! Much appreciated. Now, can you stand another question?

The real question is, can you stand another answer!

John, replies/answers are what I live for. They all help. I have an antiquated body, no sense in my trains being much newer than me. For instance, I have an early MTH steamer, it states it has Proto (QSI) sounds. Smokes, bell horn etc.....no battery in the tender, only boards.

I have another early Proto 1 NYC steamer from a set, a 4-6-4 cab #5412 that has the sounds and the lovable 9V rechargeable batt. This engine I believe is immune to the "scramble problem"....I have had Chessie F3 engines that were NOT immune. They have since been re-chiped and immunized.

The NYC is ready for a battery, it probably has an original or an older replacement, and it does not want to charge. No external jack, so it must sit on an energized track, with the smoke off and burning the headlight to really charge...would probably take over night. I thought it is time to put in a newer battery. (NO, I do not run it enough to justify a BCR. Why aren't they dirt cheap by now anyway? I know you are good with making substitutes.)

Changing the batt should be easy enough: 4 screws on the bottom of the tender, disconnect the stern tender light and get to the battery. The battery is installed in a 4 sided plastic "box" meaning it has a bottom, a side, a top and one end. The "box" is open in the terminal end to allow the connector to snap on. NOTE: I also know you are aware of this, and have seen multitudes of these. I put the complete description for someone who may not have been into a unit.

From the attached pictures, one would guess that after taking off the battery connector, the battery would come out, be replaced, and the connector snapped back on. In reality, other pictures show that the "box" holding the battery, does not EASILY come out, and the battery will not come out without some work. Correct me if the next part of this is wrong, but..................

it appears that the battery holding "box" is screwed to the tender base, from the inside to outside via a bracket holding the box to the base. Neat. BUT to get to the screws, you must move the boards. The boards are held to the base, via two screws that go from the bottom outside to the inside, making them easy to get to!

But why should one have to remove the boards/set them aside, and risk damage - Just to get to the screws holding the battery box to the base!?? Seems dumb. From the photos, you and others probably see another answer to change the battery. I did, and I used it, but one would think that MTH would have thought this through a little more throughly! To remove 4 screws, and the boards (which are right next to the sound pot, which is also screwed to the base) just to take out the plastic battery holder just is not efficient.

I am betting the first time you had to do a battery change on one of these, you did what I did. Others probably should also. I am guessing you know my solution to this. Greg

Pict 1 is side/end view of batt box, pict 2 is top/end view, pict 3 is under the boards showing the brackets  and screws to be removed.

2 batt box screws on the left, heads inside and under the pc boards, the protruding board bracket screws on the right - with the pc boards that one has to remove to get to the batt box screws! Perhaps I should take the speaker out of this seldom used unit, and put it into that Chessie Steam Special with the bad/deteriorating speaker magnet!

I believe that you can pry that plastic holder out enough to slide the battery out.  I know there are a few MTH models that you actually do have to remove the boards to get the batteries out.  I suppose they thought the engine would die before the battery.

Good topic with good replies. I'll reply just to save these valuable answers.

I thought about your method, then decided it would be too much torque and there was the possibility of damage with the prying by the PC board. In the first picture, showing the "box" on the right side of the tender and looking toward the stern, the forward end of the box is against the battery bottom. It is just a flap of 1/16" plastic. I took a utility knife, cut down the outside wall, and got rid of the end. A 20 second job, tops. That allowed the battery to be pushed out to the front of the tender (note how much room there is) and a new one slid in. One simple solution! And I am sure you agree, from your "die before the engine did" comment, that they did not put much thought into ease of battery replacement when they designed the original idea. And I consider them to be much smarter than I am!

I will have to approach you one day if I decide to try your "BCR" substitutes. Seems to be a great idea. Have a Happy New Year, I hope it is off to a great start. Greg

I like your solution, glad you figured it out.