Static Grass Application Question

Jim,

What static applicator are you using? Do you have a good ground connection? Post some pictures of your trial piece.

@Jim Brenner posted:

I have decided to leap boldly into 21st century scenery techniques and am trying to use a static grass applicator instead of ground foam. I have tried a test piece and - so far - I am underwhelmed. I am using 2mm grass on painted homasote and Woodland Scenics cement.  I followed the instructions that came with the applicator, but it seems no matter how much I shake (and twist and shout) the coverage is spotty at best.  I have used both the fine and medium mesh screens.

My question is this: Am I doing something wrong or am I expecting too much?

Thanks,

Jim

Jim       do your self a favor, go to one of the many instructional video's on you tube, it will help. ps 2mm is very short in 0, like gulf course grass

The only video you need to watch is this one by Martin Welberg:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UakltWBRJ_s

He gets into applying static grass at ~ 9 minute mark.   He uses Silfor static grass, which though on the expensive side, I've found it works best for my skill set.  I just copied what he does and it worked fine.  I have a homemade static grass applicator I purchased on ebay for about $30 years ago.

-Greg

Jim, I have a Woodland Scenic applicator added  aluminum to the center to bring  it a little closer.  good ground and glue and plenty of the grass and it worked great.  Nothing is better than the OG members videos on any subject.

Gerry

Thanks everyone. While I had looked at several YouTube videos, I had not watched Welberg's. The two things that stuck me are: the distance of the applicator from the homasote. The applicator's instructions call for a distance of from 3" to 10", but W recommends 1/2" to 1". The other was using the brush to apply the glue. I will try both of those techniques tomorrow.

Dave, your comparison of 2mm flocking to golf course grass is spot on. Thanks.  I guess I was expecting 2mm to create something more robust.

Missabe, I'm confused about adding aluminum to the center. I'm not clear on what that means or how to do it.

BTW, I purchased the JounJip brand which got good reviews and falls in the mid-price range.

Thanks again,

Jim

Fwiw, I got the best results holding the applicator about 1/2" from the surface and shaking it back and forth or tapping on the side.

-Greg

@Jim Brenner Jim, keep watching the videos and find the technique that works for you.  Good advice on the video, a bit rambling at times.

Adds:

• put a sock over the vacuum to collect the excess fibers. I find 60% to 80% do not stick and they are too expensive to vacuum away.
• The WS applicator works up to 6 MM, 8MM is so so,   I find the 12MM will not stand up at all
• There is another applicator on the market for the price of a diesel engine - supposed to handle the long fibers
• I have never seen the static charge holding the fibers like a string as shown on the video, but I also have not used 2MM all that much
• Some sort of base cover is needed else the matte glue will shine through the grass fibers.
• Apply at least three layers, more to get a dense or lush look. I tend to use the WS spray glue for the later layers, but the brush would work too.
• try a bare piece of copper wire as the ground, easier to get to the right spot while shaking the applicator as close to the surface as possible. I have not had good success with the WS supplied 4 legged ground.
• the WS applicator works better with the 12volt power source than the 9v battery. You can use your own wall wart, but you will need to reverse the polarity. I made my own adapter, so as not to cut the wall wart.

I was sooo frustrated trying to get the grass to stand up.  I have posts on the forum on what I tried which may help.

One comment about the drops of glue, supposedly the ground is supposed to make an electrical path through the glue so that the charged fiber will "jump" to the glue and stand up. The further away from the ground the fibers lose their directional nature and tend to lay at varying angle to the ground. That is basically why I like to use a 12 inch copper wire. Now that I think about it, I probably will try leaving the insulation on the wire except for the last inch or so, and see if that makes a difference.