Stationary trains

It will help to see your layout but quick answers would be you could install blocks (sections of power you can turn on or off as needed) or go to a system like legacy or dcs.

In general, if you are building the layout you can divide sections into blocks with on and off switches. However if  they layout is built and that would require more modification than you would like then the answer may be command control in the locos. Again, if you have a large assortment of locos without built in command control then that may be impractical as well.

Isolated blocks would seem to be the answer, but as others have said, we need a lot more information about the specific operating environment and track plan.

If your locomotives have some form of command control (TMCC, Legacy, DCS) you don't need any special wiring at all.

Cecil posted:

Hallo,

A basic question from a novice here; I would like to know how to park one loc. at the station while I drive the other.

Is there a blocking device available?

Greetings,

Cecil

Let me thank you for your replies. Alas, I can't show you any pictures (yet), but my layout is rather simple.

The O gauge tracks are from Lionel with a few JEP switches added as well. Furthermore from Lionel ; a lift bridge and a dock yard crane.

Locomotives; - O gauge ; Louis Roussy ( one mechanical and one electric)

                                           Lionel 700 E Hudson 5344

                                           English Southern "Tank" (for which I'm still trying to find an AC motor)

                           On30  ;    Bachmann 2-6-0 Denver & Rio Grande Western Mogul.

Finally I'm in the process of purchasing a NYC T-3a Electric locomotive by Sunset Models, which adds roughly half a century to my originally intended

era, but I guess I'm (also) just looking for handsome machines.

The stationary train issue can probably be solved with on/off switches. Even I ( with my electricity- blind spot) should be able to do this.

Thanks again,

Cecil

RoyBoy posted:

If your locomotives have some form of command control (TMCC, Legacy, DCS) you don't need any special wiring at all.

I agree. You can get some of these systems online, on sale or second-hand for not very much.

My Prodigy DCC system was purchased at a hobby shop for less than $100. It was worth every single penny.

Wiring the layout in separate blocks is the best solution. If you are using Fastrack, they sell special sections for creating blocks. You would need one on each end, to create an length of track whose center rail is not electrically connected to the center rail of the rest of the layout. Then run a separate power feed to that section. Outer rails can stay connected. If you are using the old style steel 'tubular' track, no special section is needed: you just replace the steel pin at either end with a plastic one.

The less good but still acceptable way is just to lock out the reverse unit (a.k.a. e-unit) in the engine which you are parking. All locos (at least all I am familiar with) have a switch on them somewhere to turn off the reverse unit - consult the manual to see where it is on yours. Get the engine into neutral and then throw the switch. It will stay in neutral until you throw it back again. This is fine if your station within easy reach. Power will still be getting to the engine; it just won't move. This could potentially cause overheating from incandescent bulbs, eventually, so you will want to be careful of that.

My layout all uses numerous block, they aren't that hard if you plan ahead and I've even now decided I want another one and it will be fairly easy to add. 

I found the best way to wire blocks is as a single wire. At your transformer pick up the A power and run another lead to all your block switches. On the other side of the switches run a single line out to your blocked section of track. I even used a couple 2 way on/off/on switches to dictate which side of my KW that section of track runs and I can switch between the high and low output range without touching the hookups at the transformer. 

By wiring from a switch to the block your also sending new power. Once I have a block section down for good the rails get soldered together to prevent any points of high resistance from bad track pins. 

Here's a picture of my track block switches. The release is a double momentary. 

This may or not be helpful to you but some companies offer relatively inexpensive 'dummy' or non powered units that obviously would not move.