Skip to main content

I've done a search online and in this forum, and several people have asked about a white, chalky buildup on Postwar plastics.  But it always seems to be on plastic trucks (not bodes) and almost no pictures so I can't really compare my case.

Bought a 1666 loco and air whistle tender on Ebay and overall the loco is in really good shape with almost no real rust and most of its original finish.  The E-Unit drum is all melted but the motor is good and even the original wiring with the braided insulation is soft and soldered well.

Took apart the tender and OH MY GOD I thought I was going to have to evacuate my house and call the EPA.  I thought this was mold at first, so I immediately washed with mineral spirits and scrubbed the heck out of it with dawn and warm water and a toothbrush.  But it only got the worst of the inside buildup off, and no additional amount of scrubbing can remove the rest.  And unfortunately it appears to have made the outside finish even worse.

The lettering is still fairly nice with a silver sheen, and I'd like to preserve it if I can.  But if the whole thing needs to be stripped then so be it.  It'll become another Pennsy Tender.

Photos below, let me know if I should take a hairdryer to it or blast it to orbit.

 

BEFORE TAKING APART (AS RECEIVED)

20200523_15381120200523_153955

 

REMOVED SHELL - OH MY GOD!

20200523_18020920200523_180216

AFTER MINERAL OIL BATH AND DAWN SCRUB: (THE REST WILL NOT COME OFF)

20200523_20140920200523_20141520200523_20320720200523_203211

Attachments

Images (8)
  • 20200523_153811
  • 20200523_153955
  • 20200523_180209
  • 20200523_180216
  • 20200523_201409
  • 20200523_201415
  • 20200523_203207
  • 20200523_203211
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

It looks like typical mold release agent to me. One finds a lot of that on postwar American Flyer link couplers, wheels, plastic chassis.

I am not aware of any chemical or cleaner that will remove it.

The classic way to remove this is to heat it with a hair drier. It will turn clear, liquefy,  and ball up. If you wipe it off with a paper towel before it cools, it will come off. If it cools, you will have to heat it and wipe it again.

You can get at the coal pile and other crevices with a tooth brush, after heating it to a liquid state.

Last edited by RoyBoy

The loco and tender are painted. I don’t understand how mold release agent can be on the surface of a painted shell. It would be on the unpainted mold. If it is really mold release agent, then it would have had to migrate through the entire thickness of the paint coating. I suppose that is possible. That would mean the paint is ruined and I don’t know how a hair dryer fixes that when it’s embedded in the paint.

In the course of doing repairs and restorations for my local train store, I have seen this crud on numerous occasions. Sometimes it’s really severe like your tender. I have found that buffing the surface with plain motor or train oil makes it kind of disappear. I cleaned up a few postwar F3’s this way and they looked great. 

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×