Stop, Start, Stop, Start

Pics of the track would help but it sounds like loose and rusty joints. Also reassembling the track sections over and over does not help. Joints have to be clean and tight and the track bright. Also make sure there are no misplaced insulators.  Of course the same for the loco, clean and lubed.

I do notice that some of the joints are loose and will come apart from time to time so I assume that the "female" ends of the track should be tightened up with a needle nose and/or new pins put in on the "male" ends?  My loco is well-lubed too.  I notice it will run by itself without any problem (it's an Erie 2032) but when I try to run the train is when the stop/start is most obvious.    What, by the way, is a "misplaced insulator"?

Once you get settled and have a layout mounted on a wooden table, the problems will go away. You have a typical "Carpet Central RR" with all the associated problems of temporary wiggly track.

That was my first thought actually that the movement of the track has been causing these problems right along.  Time to dismantle the "CC RR" and move it to a permanent location.  Many thanks

windhund42 posted:

I do notice that some of the joints are loose and will come apart from time to time so I assume that the "female" ends of the track should be tightened up with a needle nose and/or new pins put in on the "male" ends?  My loco is well-lubed too.  I notice it will run by itself without any problem (it's an Erie 2032) but when I try to run the train is when the stop/start is most obvious.    What, by the way, is a "misplaced insulator"?

There are 'card stock' insulators under the centre rail. These can at times get shifted (and sometimes go missing) and cause shorts. New track has been known to come with a missing insulator so it is always a good practice to check them.

You can disconnect the transformer and connect a continuity tester or DVOM to one section then go around the layout and test in various places. You can learn a lot about how good (or not) your track conntections are by this method.

I would add a few more lockons to help.  Maybe a total of 4, equally spaced out.  I would also get the O Gauge track clips (get 027 track clips if you are using 027 track).  They will hold the track together and minimize the loose connections.  Finally, put a single drop of light oil on the pick up rollers on the engine.  Spin the rollers and work it in and then wipe off the excess.  You shouldn't have any more problems.

As I expected, more great advice and insights from forum members.  All of the tips make sense and I certainly will follow through implementing them.  Thank you all.

I have a layout using 50+ year old track, many of the joints are not perfect, I over came this by having many power wires connected to the track at about 5 foot intervals. You can use the locons or solder wires to the rails, both work fine.

Ray

Check out the site from forum sponsor "TIN MAN"  The issue might be as simple as rust on the inside of the rail.  I used a small round file to lightly brush the inside of both sides of the connection and replaced the track pins.  I also applied a small drop of atlas conductive oil when inserting the pins as a rust preventative.

ALL ABOARD

Liagent

TCA AND MIDWEST DIVISION MORNING

Well, I think I will certainly solve the problem one way or another with all of the great tips I've received