Stuck with an old CW 80 for now. No surprise, but don't think my SF 2-10-10-2 likes it.

It may not be directly the CW-80 as you are not indicating it is showing signs of overload (flashing light, power being cut off). You don't mention your operating method. If operating conventionally, the smoke unit is typically getting less voltage than it would under command control or LionChief with a constant 18VAC.

I don't have experience with this particular locomotive yet, but some can get really dry and need to be primed with a seemingly ridiculous amount of fluid. On the other hand, too much fluid can also dampen the smoke effect.

Right, It did not overload and yes, I'm stuck with conventional for now, waiting for a new batch of legacy controllers. I did try the LC app, which worked. I know the fluid can be tricky, it's got at least 30 drops now, maybe 18 day 1 and 12 day 2(after it did not smoke) I don't want to go overboard, but I don't know.

The CW 80 is underpowered for all the smoke units in this engine. It’s may not be overloading but I suspect it’s struggling. Get a bigger power supply.

Try a hard reset.

Turn off all the other smoke effects except for the stack and see if that helps.  Can you feel air flowing out of the stack?  Does the air feel warm?  Can you smell the scent of smoke fluid in the airflow?

Thanks GRJ. Yes, I'm hearing the fan and the air does feel warm. I'll try it with the whistle steam off. The blowdown smoke has been off because I can't use it without Legacy anyway. The whistle steam smoke does work, but it is a separate smoke generator.

I meant to add, I do smell the scent, Lionel premium pine, but no burning smell or smoke.

Chuck, I'll look up how you do a hard reset in conventional.

I don't think you can do a reset in conventional.  Do you know someone who has a TMCC/Legacy system?

Since you are running conventional for now, have you tried keeping 18 volts on the track by keeping the engine in neutral for a minute, and then running the engine around the loop?

Carl J

Chuck, There is a shop in my area,  I have gone to over the years, he may have it.

@Carl J posted:

Since you are running conventional for now, have you tried keeping 18 volts on the track by keeping the engine in neutral for a minute, and then running the engine around the loop?

Carl J

I have. I only have a LED pen volt tester and  6v LED bright,12 v LED is dim, but the next LED is 24v, no surprise that it's dark, so I'm not sure I'm getting near 18v. Need a more a precise tester ;~

Totally agree that you need a meter to check real output from the CW80. Any chance you have a lighted caboose or similar car that would have conventional 18 volt lighting that could be put on the track with and without the engine?

Carl J

I think you're chasing the wrong item here.  The Legacy models have smoke regulators and the smoke will work fine on 11-12 volts, I doubt that simply voltage is the issue.

@Carl J posted:

Totally agree that you need a meter to check real output from the CW80. Any chance you have a lighted caboose or similar car that would have conventional 18 volt lighting that could be put on the track with and without the engine?

Carl J

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I think you're chasing the wrong item here.  The Legacy models have smoke regulators and the smoke will work fine on 11-12 volts, I doubt that simply voltage is the issue.

Carl, did just test with a new to me SF caboose and it lit up pretty well.

GRJ, you know way more than I about the subject and are probably right. So would that leave me with a burnt out resister, too little fluid(seems unlikely) or some how the resistor electrical connection was severed( seems also unlikely)? The fan seems to work.

Maybe related to the flux capacitor, I mean the thermistor.

This forum is a great resource, I appreciate the feedback.

What I do in these cases is monitor the current draw of the locomotive and turn the smoke on and off. If you see a few tenth's of an amp change with smoke on and off, the smoke unit is probably working.

You can do this in conventional mode with the smoke switch.  If I knew which exact product number, I could probably point to the smoke switch locations.

1

So, with it sitting in neutral, flip the smoke switch.  See if it draws more current with smoke on.

Just to update, I still need a legacy command system, apparently I'll be using a Cab 3 and likely a 180 PH. As a stop gap, I did get the "new and improved" CW 80 just to run my 2-10-10-2 in the mean time. The new CW 80  is much better, the loco ran flawlessly, very smooth with zero dead spots or engine slowdowns or speed ups, which the old CW 80 had.

Only one problem, stack smoke still kaput. I hear the fan, smell the scent of the fluid, no burning smell.

I did turn off all smoke like GRJ suggested, let it sit then just turned the stack smoke on with the switch on the loco. Don't know if a reset would possibly cure it, because I'm stuck in conventional for now. Maybe the new Lionel app will be ready soon. I'm not in a big hurry to send it in as it runs great, but eventually I'd like get that stack working. I mean, who doesn't want to smoke out, except my wife of course.

I'm sorry Ford, I kinda don't get it.

You spent the money to buy an expensive Legacy engine and system, but not to buy an adequate transformer?

It seems to me that the transformer should always come first.

Mannyrock

I think you’ll only get maybe 20-30 mins runtime out of 20 drops of fluid.  If you ran for 40 mins and kept running it day after day without adding fluid you may have burnt the wick out.  

Once I have a smoke unit primed, I add 10 drops before powering up, and that gives me 15-20 mins of smoke.  As soon as I see smoke thin out, I add 10 more.  After I shut down for the day, if its been running a while I add 10 and put it back on the shelf.

RPL, possible I probably only ran 30min. the 1st day with 18 drops, 2nd day at start up no smoke, added 12 more. Scary thing, I could replace the wick, maybe? I'll probably wait.

Perhaps obvious but use the funnel to add fluid and gently blow down the stack with a straw to remove air bubbles that can block things up.