Super detail Williams cab forward, first video finishing up !

Looks good.

 

Any idea where I can get a truck like the one in the last picture?

 

It looks perfect for a project I have in mind.

You can get the Lionel legacy AC12 engine truck. Go to Lionel parts, type in cab forward.

Thanks Ron!

Started on under cab air tanks using plastistrut tubing and end pieces and pieces of brass etc.

 

Bob 2 finally bought the Robert J Church Cab-Forward today for $80. Most of the dealers wanted more than $170. Ridiculous.

Painted and on frame. Back one has to be lowered some.

Glad you got one.  It is the definitive resource.  Check out the frame drawings - it will help get those frame extensions a bit more accurate. 

 

This is the best shot I have of what the frame extensions should look like - this is all Max Gray, and it is long gone from my shop.

 

Thanks for the picture Bob. I'de buy that in a heart beat.

I think I got a couple hundred bucks for it.  The drivers were EM-1.  A lot of work remained, and I was unwilling to do it.  

 

Now that I look at it, the forward frame extension is not perfect.  It should have a radius for the front wheel, but not the back one, and that angle down to the pilot should go further down.  I will see if I have a better photo.  You could fix the Williams frame with a simple piece of thin plastic, glued to the existing frame, just to see how it looks.

 

If you ever do spring for a KTM, the USH version is the one to get.  The Max Gray version had some serious visual flaws.

Tanks waiting for piping and frame work

Cutting right and left prototype frame blanks. Here is the right side rough blank.

I enjoy watching the progress.  I just don't have the guts yet to take on some of the projects I see on this forum.  However, watching, I'm learning a lot.

Looking forward to seeing more work.....

Right side frame finished ready for paint and installation.  Maybe a little more filing.

Ron,

Are you using a resistance type soldering station to assembly all this brass?  I've got a project in brass going myself and the soldering iron isn't getting it...I need to invest in a station.

 

Any recommendations?

Sometimes when working on a frame you need a pencil torch.

Here the frame is painted and installed with the beginning of tank plumbing. With all the additional steam, oil and control lines and rods I'll add under here it will look much better than stock. The loco is not on level track so it appears a little higher than it is.

 

Also I use both a then rod type solder pistol and a torch depending on what I'm doing. I wish I had a resistance solder unit.

Here is the loco with the cab reassembled. One can see the frames make a huge difference. Tomorrow I'll do the left frame and the firebox extensions.

One more.

Excellent. 

You might be the guy to ask: I want to build a box car with green EJ&E, and the map that says "around, not through, Chicago."  I have not seen one in O Scale - should I be looking harder, or should I have Jim make decals and do it myself?

Resistance soldering.

When soldering small brass parts, resistance soldering is nice to keep the heat localized to one small spot.  It's not fun soldering a part only to have another previous part fall off or move because the solder melted.

Mine is as old as dirt (like me).  The foot on/off peddle makes 'life' easier.

 

They range around 2 C notes.

I remember an article (can't remember where but I think it was model railroader magazine) where they showed you how to make one real cheap.  You can buy the carbon electrodes separate for the project.  You can probably 'google' resistance soldering and find a 'how to'.

 

Micro mark:

http://www.micromark.com/Searc...z4icQCFdgPgQodaJUAKA     

 

.

.

.

I just googled resistance soldering and found some youtube and pdf's.  Didn't check them out but that should get you started:

https://www.google.com/search?...e=utf-8&oe=utf-8

 

 

 

 

Great project...Love the tanks. 

Guys,

Thanks for the advice on the soldering.  Will look into one of those units. 

 

As said, it's frustrating when previous work comes undone....

Nice work.....it does make a difference to the loco.....I'll leave mine alone.....for fear of messing it up!!!

 

I have a old 1960's era MR magazine that shows a doctors collection of O scale  Max Gray locos......so from an early age that brand has always held some magic! Thanks for showing it too....

 

Soldering alternatives:

One thing I forgot as a replacement for soldering is CA or JB weld.

Granted, these alternatives won't be as strong as solder but on a lot of places (no stress), it's quick and quite durable, ie pipe connectors would be good for CA.  I find it best applying CA by putting some on some wax paper and then using a tooth pick to apply small amounts to the desired surface area.  Using it straight from the bottle usually results in too much being applied (resulting in fingers being also attached to the part!) .  A hardener that comes in a spray can will cure the CA very quickly.  Like solder, the parts can be together and then apply the CA and it will wick into the joint.  The joint needs to be a good fit, else you can use medium or thick CA to fill in the gap.

 

The JB weld is metal base and I've seen a fin on a RC gas engine glued back on and it didn't fall off from all the vibration.  They have two versions: regular which takes a long time to cure (8 hours) or the quick version that sets up in minutes.  Both have the same tensile strength, the regular just has a high 600 degree temperature strength (which isn't needed on trains).

 

I'm partial to ZAP CA products.

 

Making lagged steam pipes.

What did you cover the pipes with?  It looks fantastic.

Yes..that looks great.  Tell us more...

I use a very thin 3M medical tape. Put about 8 inches down on cutting board. Cut with an xacto scale 3 to 4 inch strips and wrap. I then coat it with super glue and paint when the glue drys. It takes several hours when finished and it shrinks tighter around the pipe.

 

Pictured here, are the tape, the lagging on my custom built 1/20.3 K28 and my hand painted engineer. The detail on 1/20.3 scale is easy to fabricate, I'm slowly trying to get where I can do this in 1/48, but I need to buy more tooling.

 

Ron

Hi Ron H,

 

Please show us more of that K28.  And are you the builder of it?  

 

Steve

I think Ron just has waaay too much free time on his hands.

Doug,

 

I guess I do. Retired.

 

Steam guy, more pics of the K28 coming up. I built about 60%. Started with a blank boiler no steps no plumbing etc.,cab and wheels from accucraft. Had to fabricate everything else including the tender and tender trucks. Took about 6 months as I had not retired yet. It is radio controlled.

Ahh ok, thanks for the info.  The final look is great!

Excellent, thanks.  Never thought of using medical tape.

Left side front frame blank before final filing and sanding.

Left frame painted and mounted. Unfortunately I did not mount it quite right, too high.

Also discovered the left side stock lifter assembly needs to be unsoldered and lowered,  SIGH!

Baby?  Have you seen a baby?  No, no baby around here!

 

 

 

Bruce

Finally got the left frame rail sanded painted and positioned correctly. Shown here with the train crew I'm painting to go with this cab forward. About half way done on the figures. Just trying to do the faces and then weather them. They came ready painted with huge googily eyes.

 

 

Starting to weather the train crew.

How will you get them to sit in the cab?