Swing up 90 degree layout entry gate

I made a single track bridge for a club member. I used regular butt hinges but the hinge was mounted to a 3/4 inch pine which was then mounted to the table. This allows the track to lift away from the adjoining track without interference. 

Others will pipe in with other suggestions.

 

 

Nicely done, DMASSO.  Neat and precise.  It looks simpe but I know how difficult it is to do that well.  (it took me several tries). 

 

Very neat and done nicely/ I know what Lee means when he said that the construction of these lift bridges is difficult. If the tables on the sides are not perfectly square to each other, level and the same height, it makes alignment very difficult. I did the hinges the same way on the three lift bridges on my layout by raising them to the height at the top of the rails. My final lift bridge will connect under the table run to table top tracks. That's going to be quite a challenge to get right.  

They biggest thing is to make sure the hinges are ABOVE the rails. That way the rails don't bind when you lift up the bridge.

 

Yo may also want to set up some sort of electrical relay system that automatically shuts off power to the track approaching the bridge if the bridge is elevated. That way you don't end up with an expensive engine on the floor of the your layout room.

 

I've got a lift bridge on my layout. Learned how to do it by watching the "Jim Barrett in the Backshop" videos from OGR Magazine. 

 

-Eric Siegel

DMASSO thanks for the digital pictures and additional comments from other respondees, I purchased in September 1/2 inch leaf by 12 inch long piano hinges at Menards, after calculating the rotation of the pivoting gate yesterday and knowing that the pivot point had to be above the stationary track to prevent interference you pictures confirmed that these piano hinges will not work, piano hinge longitudinal mounting holes on 3/4 inch parallel centerlines.

Your welcome. I found a few more shots that may help.

 

 

DMASSO,again thanks fro the additional digital pictures showing the bridge base and hinged location. I will have three entry gates on the layout, these were to be crawl under locations but being 65 my knees cannot take the crawling on concrete. I did install one drop down gate for double track, it works okay but not satisfied with its operation , secured on the non-pivot side by two sliding barrel bolt locks, the track on this side is curved and slightly pitched for super elevation which required offsetting the barrel bolt locks. Initially, prior to this installation, I considered a pivot up gate but would have to modify the stationary elevated track base on the pivot side. I should have taken the extra time and modified this base, after completing the bench work project that I currently am finishing, I will modify this drop down gate assembly to an upward pivoting gate assembly.

The other thing to think about is having an alignment pin or wedge or 'cradle' at the non-hinge end to ensure that the rails are aligned when you lower the bridge.  Probably would be a good idea to have it adjustable so if the two sides of the table(s) move a bit you can adjust the alignment.

 

And, as someone else noted, having some sort of means of ensuring that there is a section of track on either side of the bridge that goes dead when the bridge is up.  A simple microswitch would do it - or even something as simple as a small metal plate or screwhead that serves as a contact point with a similar plate or screwhead on the bridge that completes the circuit when the bridge is down.  That way you'll always know that when the bridge is not down there is 'automatically' no power to the nearby track.

I did mine similar to DMASSO only a little larger.  I also wanted a scene underneath my bridges, not just the floor.  So I built a tray out of plywood and 1 by's.  The scene is not finished yet, but you can see I did add the water.

 

The double track main is the MTH Arch bridge and the single track bridge is just pink foam that I cut and painted.

 

I also used a suggestion from Susan's run room and installed a auto hatchback lift.  Just bought it from the auto parts store.  Makes the bridge nice and easy to lift and close.

 

Ron

 

 

 

Here's a link to Susan's blog w/ pics and details on her lift up single and double-track bridges:

 

http://www.slsprr.net/features/bridges1.htm

I have a lift-bridge connecting two tables. One table is small and easily shaken out of position The table without the hinge has two grooves cut into it about 2" long, into which under-track bridge girders slip when, and only when, the alignment is correct.  Under the groove is a microswitch.  When the bridge is lifted, the switch leading to it is thrown to the other direction.  Wiring is the same as of you were setting the switch for non-derailing operation.

My walk through lift up spans are large so they can have scenery i.e.not just be a bridge.  The close up of the slightly opened lift up end shows a square notch and square 2"x2' mate to properly locate the track every time.

.....

Dennis

Wow, what a great thread!

 

If I can ever get my layout rebuild done, I will have a lift up double track bridge.

 

Lots of excellent pictures and links of what folks have previously done.

 

Jim

My earlier post was edited to reflect the fact that the link supplied is to Susan's single and double track lift bridges--my original post referred only to the double-track bridge.