Switch problem

When the engine spans the gap is one roller still on the center rail? Or do both rollers sit on a dead spot?

One check to make sure both rollers are picking up power is to place a 2" piece of electrical tape on a straight section of track and run your train over it slowly.  If the engine stalls when one roller is on the tape, then the roller not on the tape is not getting power.  You want to check that the wire is not broken, possibly under the insulation.   G

Thank You

I ran my sd60 and my gp38 over the same switch and there was no problem.

will try all methods.

Thanks again

Do you mean between the front and rear rollers or the 2 on the same wheel set?

Thanks

There is continuity between all the rollers long and short all 4 check out.

Here are some pics of where she stops.

Great advice! This kind of set-up will save hours of frustration.  

Redshift is this -9 your longest locomotive?

Is your frog powered or unpowered?

Thanks.   

Every toy train tool kit needs to have an automotive test lamp equipped with a 24 volt bulb (available at truck parts stores)

A light bulb with a couple of wire leads will  work and also a  voltmeter  but the Auto test lamp is great for this.... Hook one side of the tester to a center rail and check for voltage touching the outside rails, All of them on the switch.

Reverse the process.. hook one side up to a outside rail and touch all the center rail parts of the switch.... good luck 

I have a similar issue with some of my MTH locos ( a PS2 SD40 and a GP38). When they hit certain switches, they stop.  My switches are PW 1122 switches that I've converted to fixed voltage. I installed knife switches to kill the power to the switches in my 2 main loops when trains are parked on them so I could kill the solenoid buzz. I later installed a capacitor system to eliminate buzz, but maintained the knife switches. I've discovered, though, that I can run those problematic engines through those switches if I kill the power to them with my knife switches. I've yet to figure out why that works, but it ALWAYS works. I'm thinking maybe it has something to do with the anti-derail pulse that kicks in when the engine hits the switch, but who knows? For me it was a simple solution as those knife switches were already there. 

Roger

I believe the Dash is the longest/or my Sd60 is close or the same.

The SD runs through the switches fine.

The way the engine is in the pic the frog at the back is getting 21.0 volts,same as my Z-4000 is putting out.

Now W/O the engine on the switches it is 2.9-3.0 volts same as all my other switches.

I can't reach the front frog under the engine so I don't what it is with the engine like it sits in the pics.

Thanks For all the answers guys.

GGG can you repair a DCS Remote?

Barry says it is an antenna Problem.

The post is under my out of range post.

Thank You

Is this engine a 2 Rail 3 Rail engine with a switch?  The issue may not be center rail power, but could be an issue with outside rail common since the wheels would be insulted and the 2R/3R switch is used to connect the 2 outside wheels internal to the engine.   G

While it may not be "Scientific", it cuts your troubleshooting time in half since not only do you know you have an issue with a roller, you also know which one.  G

Hi Its 3 rail and I checked the switch,its in 3 rail mode

Thanks

Measure conductivity between outside wheels left to right side.  Do you have 0 ohms?  If not, your issue might be wiring from the wheels through the 2R/3R switch.  If you have 0 ohms something else is your problem.  G

Top Pic.. is there center rail track power at rear of loco?? Should be. you have 2 switches (turnouts) together. Did you try the track power test with a meter or auto tester?  Do we know if this is a track or engine problem?

I have 0 ohms between the wheels.

I have power through the switches,21.5 volts.

It has to be the switch,2 inches way I have the same 2 switches and there is no problem going back and forth.

I ordered 2 more new switches and will swap them out.

If there is any thing else please advise.

I will monitor and let you know when I swap them out.

Thanks Again

P.S. I fixed my remote it was a loose board as in Barry's Book!!!

Arthur let me ask you about this. Will a 24-volt bulb handle the AC power we put on our tracks via the TIU?

I tried a 12-volt just for grins and it lasted all of about .5 seconds. It had a great light during it's short life but then it was into the trash can.

Thanks!

OK I missed the part about... #6 switch... You may need special wiring for this one,,, Depending which way the switch is  lined  you borrow an outside rail and make it "hot". with a relay or other means... On the other hand the first pic shows the rear engine's trucks sitting directly over an  center rail... If the roller is working the engine should be getting power.. Unless there's an outside rail problem,,traction tire, no connection?

Who's switch?  Ross

Yes.  The bulbs voltage rating is what is important.  You ran a 12V bulb with 18V.  So it was overloaded an burned out after a short period.  Running a 24V bulb with 18V under loads it and it will last longer than its rated life.   G

Thanks G. It was sad to see the bulb go so quick but while it was alive it had a great life. 

Hello,

No they are Scaletrax by MTH.

Thank You

 You can also lower the voltage with  transformer handle for testing. Not so with a brick.

Well its kind of fixed.

If I go through the 2 problem switches at 15 mph the engine does not stop like in the pics.I tried a few times back and forth an it runs ok.

Thanks All for the help.

Happy New Year.

Got to better than that else your engine  crews are going to start complaining.