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I have some 1121, 1122 and 1122(E) switches, plus four 022 switches, all in various states of disrepair. I cleaned up a couple of them, just getting my feet wet in the process. Is there a definitive video or tutorial anywhere to be found that touches on how to clean, open and lube (if any) all three? Some will have to be opened due to serious internal binding. I was surprised that none of the You Tube videos I found contained any repair info, just ideas on how to mod them. I also searched here but didn’t find what I’m after. Help?

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Thanks Pingman, that was a pretty neat article - absolutely loved the family involvement. My 8 yr old (today!) grandson is just starting to appreciate grandpa's old trains

And thanks Rob, that was/is the longest running thread I think I have ever seen. I'll need to print that out to have as a desk reference while I'm working on my switches - whew!!!

 

Last edited by GeoPeg

Interesting…while working on a couple of 1122(E) switches, I noticed a common ailment – when cleaned and finished, the snap action to move from the turn to the straight position was much snappier and cleaner than going from straight to turn. Keep in mind that I was running right at 9vac to be certain that the switches would perform at minimal voltage. I found that the physical strength of the energized solenoid was noticeably less as it was pushing toward the end of its range in the turn position. I measured the resistance of both coils – same. I measured the current draw, straight was 430ma, while turned was 400ma. A slight difference for sure, but didn’t seem like enough to account for the physical difference I could feel when holding the solenoid plunger. I removed the “rack” so I could feel just the strength of the plunger – I wanted to be certain I wasn’t feeling any binding from the rest of the mechanism. The force was still very different when the plunger pushed toward the pinion gear (turn position) than when it pulled toward the opposite (straight) position. So I turned the plunger around and tried it in the opposite direction – the Aha Moment! The problem followed the plunger! If you examine the plunger, it is made with an extended neck portion where the brass shaft that connects to the rack is engaged. That extended neck is just as magnetic as the rest of the plunger, so to the coil, it appears that the plunger is extending beyond the end of the coil when moving to the full turn position, and the force gets noticeably weaker. So this looks like a design error that could be corrected by eliminating the “neck” at one end of the plunger and reattaching the brass bar that hooks into the rack. I’m not a machinist, so I can’t test my theory, but I would bet a twenty on the fact that the performance would then be just as “snappy” in both directions.

Just as one additonal thought, if anyone else is goofy enough (I know you are!) to spend your time measuring current draw in a 65 year old switch, be aware that (and I should have remebered this) the current draw changes with the position of the plunger within the solenoid ... so current measurements don't mean much - Resistance measurements should certainly tell a story though. Also, I just noticed that the old plungers in the 1121 switches don't seem to have this problem - they also don't have the shoulder on the plunger that the 1122's do. I hope "do" isn't a preposition, cuz I just ended a sentence with "do" and my old English teacher will roll over in her grave .....

Geopeg, glad you have enjoyed success with your project, and I'm sure your grandson will appreciate the added excitement those switches will provide.

Thanks for your comments above regarding Rob's and my assistance--very thoughtful of you.  Rob is one of the most valuable members here because he tirelessly provides valuable information to those, like yourself, seeking assistance.

 

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