Switch wiring/powered frog?

That is what I get for just clicking in the recent topics column and not checking the forum it is in.

Thanks Cap

The system I'm working with is 2 rail system. I appreciate your remedy. Thank you.

Hope someone else will post some solutions.

Have a good day Cap.

John

Coeurd Alene, Idaho

Hi,

I use a dpdt switch to power the switch machine and the frog.  Works well.

Ed

Thanks Ed

Will have to fumble around with the wires and figure it out.

Attached are two rather crude schematics.   Hopefully they will help you.

type 1  is probably like the Atlas switch where the points are separately wired from the frog, and wired to the running rails. 

Type 2 is probably like the Old Pullman switch were the points and frog are one assembly and probably pick up power from the running rail the points touch.   this is very typical of old HO switches for DC.

In either case, you need to change the polarity of the feed to the frog based on which way the points are thrown.   You could  do this with a powered switch machine that has contacts, or an SPDT manual switch.   You could use a relay but then you also have to power the relay based on which way the points are thrown.

You only need SPDT (single pole, double throw) contacts for the track power.    If want signal indications or feed back to a panel,  you need additional contacts. 

I have many manual switches on my layout that I throw with Caboose Industries ground throws.    I have powered all my frogs.   With manual track switches I use a small spring loaded SPDT electrical switch that has spring loaded arm.    I used to get them at radio shack and they were about 3/4 inch by 1/2 inch by 3/16 inch thick.    I mount SPDT so that the spring arm buts against the back of the throw bar when extended.    Then when the throw bar moves against it the arm, it moves the contacts to the other setting.

I simply supply power to the SPDT from the running rails just beyond the point end of the switch.

For machine powered switches, there are usually SPDT contacts on the machine that change position when the machine is thrown.

If  you want some photos of this setup contact me off list through my contact info.

That will be very helpful. Thank you very much Jim. I will get to it when I'm back home in a few days.

John

Coeurd Alene, Idaho

Dear John,

Check out Tam Valley Frog Juicers. My DCC layout has 14 of them and work great. no fuss, no muss !! John P.Dunn Sr.

@jdunn posted:

Dear John,

Check out Tam Valley Frog Juicers. My DCC layout has 14 of them and work great. no fuss, no muss !! John P.Dunn Sr.

I second jdunn's comment on the Tam Valley Frog juicers, they work so nice.

I also use Tortoise's with DPDT switches and they work great too. In either case it is advisable to use circuit breakers to prevent possible DCC decoder board damage in the event of a short.

John

Checked out their website. I will be following up on solutions. My layout is wired DC and DCC. Not all my units are DCC compatible at this time. I have Overland and CLW units that are DC.

Thank you very much for the tip. I'm sure I will find use of the Juicer.

John

Coeurd Alene, Idaho

@jdunn posted:

Dear John,

Check out Tam Valley Frog Juicers. My DCC layout has 14 of them and work great. no fuss, no muss !! John P.Dunn Sr.

Tam Valley frog juicers are an excellent solution.  However, they come in three configurations- single, dual and hex.  For some inexplicable reason, only the dual frog juicers are rated for O-Scale use. 

I came up with a pretty simple and realistic looking solution for changing frog polarity. Basically I mount a miniature snap switch

under a Caboose Industries HO tall switch stand. I add a rod to the very end of metal bar that activates the switch which extends up and is contacted by the  switch stands throw bar.

The below video should be self explanatory.

https://youtu.be/5zF3cW_MHFg

Contact me if you need more info.

Peter