Switches for lift out bridge

There are several posts by members who have built these bridges with what you are looking for. Easy to find using the search feature. Here's one:

https://ogrforum.com/...ift-out-bridge-video

Hope this helps.

Mike

You don't want push button switches.  They take too much pressure to activate. You want a lever-action microswitch.  They are cheap & available. VERY light pressure activates them.   I use them on my lift-out, to throw turnouts leading to the bridges.

Google "lever-action microswitches" and you find many styles. 

If anything, momentary push button switch but I would go with the suggestion above

RJR posted:

You don't want push button switches.  They take too much pressure to activate. You want a lever-action microswitch.  They are cheap & available. VERY light pressure activates them.   I use them on my lift-out, to throw turnouts leading to the bridges.

Google "lever-action microswitches" and you find many styles. 

I concur with this recommendation too.   I went with something along the lines of this one for my needs and it has worked out great so far.

Great thanks for the help!

Yep, limit switches were designed for this type of actuation.

You might want a coin door switch, cabinet door saftey or light switch, furnace panel switch. etc. The coin doors and furnaces will have a "pull to lock on" position for maintainace work with the "door" open. There are 2 position, 3 position, spsp, dpdt, universal mounts and different plunger lengths. Mount a bracket below the surface and make a small hole for the plunger. Dowels on the lift out passing through the hole to actuate a plunger, or blade type micro switch, etc. is a other thing I like Actually you can do this with just wire, blocks, and contacts from something like two or three àutomotive feeler gauge blades (I like the brass) for making one set of contacts. (I'd bend one to a slight V and stack it on another so the end digs at metal vs wood as the V touches a third blade on the other surface; contacting.). If you drill a second hole I feeler gauge's, use a fence or lock into pliars to keep bit grab from turning it into a twirling knife. So, each approach is one block; the bridge is another(maybe 2 each); plus the main block(s) center rail power skips the approach and goes right to the bridge by contacts or rail blades, etc. The bridge block has feed wire to a 3rd(added) contact back to the layout. This powers the approach. If you pull the bridge you pull the approaches conntection.... No switch needed, just needs an extra contact on the bridge to layout wiring.

You might want a coin door switch, cabinet door saftey or light switch, furnace panel switch. etc. The coin doors and furnaces will have a "pull to lock on" position for maintainace work with the "door" open. There are 2 position, 3 position, spsp, dpdt, universal mounts and different plunger lengths. Mount a bracket below the surface and make a small hole for the plunger. Dowels on the lift out passing through the hole to actuate a plunger, or blade type micro switch, etc. is a other thing I like Actually you can do this with just wire, blocks, and contacts from something like two or three àutomotive feeler gauge blades (I like the brass) for making one set of contacts. (I'd bend one to a slight V and stack it on another so the end digs at metal vs wood as the V touches a third blade on the other surface; contacting.). If you drill a second hole I feeler gauge's, use a fence or lock into pliars to keep bit grab from turning it into a twirling knife. So, each approach is one block; the bridge is another(maybe 2 each); plus the main block(s) center rail power skips the approach and goes right to the bridge by contacts or rail blades, etc. The bridge block has feed wire to a 3rd(added) contact back to the layout. This powers the approach. If you pull the bridge you pull the approaches conntection.... No switch needed, just needs an extra contact on the bridge to layout wiring.