Switching from 2rail to 3rail

"I just purchased some North West Short line wheels that are 3rail wheels.  The flange is very small.  Will this run ok on track and switches without derailing? I've been looking at Ross track, MTH and Lionel better track, etc.  Any suggestions or comments?"

   I think that generally it's better to use the same size wheels on all your equipment so the switches can be built to the best standards for them and not need to be built to compromise specs. It's possible to mix small and large flanges but I'd stick with 3 rail flanges if I had a 3 rail layout. Someone more familiar with trucks on that model can probably tell you what 3 rail wheel sets will fit it.....DaveB

As commonly understood, "3-rail wheels" do not have "very small" flanges, so I don't know what you have.

The flanges do not have to be huge, but take a look at some 3-rail rolling stock. The tread width is important, also. Some older "2-rail" wheels have larger flanges, but the tread is narrow and so the wheels still can go astray in the switch flangeways. It's these flange ways that must be accommodated; the rails on Atlas or GG track is fine for small flanges (and are sold for 2-rail use), but the big 3-rail flange ways swallow the 2-rail-spec wheels.

2-rail wheels don't do well through Atlas switches, at least I've never found a car that they were reliable on. 

I agree with the possibility of changing out my trucks for some of MTH's trucks  This way I could use the coupler on the MTH to connect to my MTH cars I'm coupling too.  It's going to take some modifying of the car undercarriage to accommodate this change, but I believe it can be done.  This way I would not have to worry so much about the 3 rail flanges on the turnouts.  Thing is...I just wanted a business car that looked great to go at the end of my Union Pacific Excursion train.  I know the other cars from MTH are not Prototypically correct, but the names are right.  I'm going to add some details to each of them to dress them up some, but I know I'm trying to stretch a prototypical car done outstandingly by Precision Scale and somehow run it with my MTH stuff.  Being a newbie to the hobby doesn't help in figuring this out, but I have a great painter and detail guy that I've chosen based on OGR forum recommendations.  He's helping me figure this out. 

The only problem I see right now, based on pictures from MTH, is how to place the truck assembly on this car.  MTH trucks mount and screw in on the inside of the body.  The one I have on Precisions model is screwed in from the outside.  Both are off centered hole placements...MTH is on the wrong side as the current trucks.  Just going to have to see.  Kit bashing here I come!!!!

"The only problem I see right now, based on pictures from MTH, is how to place the truck assembly on this car.  MTH trucks mount and screw in on the inside of the body.  The one I have on Precisions model is screwed in from the outside.  Both are off centered hole placements...MTH is on the wrong side as the current trucks.  Just going to have to see.  Kit bashing here I come!!!!"

   Before messing too much with a nice brass car I'd look for some 3 rail wheelsets that could fit into the existing brass trucks. This would give you the option of returning it to a 2 rail car if you ever decide to sell it or switch to 2 rail modeling. Three rail wheels might not fit into the trucks as it is due to flange size but it's worth taking the time to find out before chopping anything off to make it compatible with MTH trucks...DaveB

I definitely agree with this suggestion. I converted an Overland brass GN caboose with NorthWest Short Line "Hi-Rail" wheels, custom made by NWSL. I sent them one of the 2-Rail wheel/axles from the caboose, and they made the correct bearing ends on the axles to fit into the truck frames, with Hi-Rail wheels.

I took a set of 3 rail wheels off of an MTH truck.  They fit, but I got some rubbing in the inside of the truck sides.  There might be a way to correct this. I believe some form of a spacer on the axle each side could do it.  Also, like the idea above to take one of my MTH cars and put a Kadee on the end.  Trust me, I want to keep this car as is if I can.  The only wheel I tried so far was the NWSL wheel set.  The flange was very small so it derailed on switches...so, I'm going to try to contact them to see if they have any ideas too.  Thanks...keep the suggestions coming.  I'm listening.

Another thought; once I figured out how to modify all my Atlas O turnouts, I now operate many 2-Rail SCALE wheeled pieces of rolling stock on our layout, without issues. Thus, why not just leave your fine model 2-Rail and operate it that way?

Well, I talked to NWSL.  Very helpful.  His suggestion was to keep my trucks as is, but put the MTH wheels into them with the larger flange.  Shim the axle so it doesn't rub inside the framework and then just add a Kadee coupler to one of my MTH cars to accommodate hooking up to my business car.  I like this idea better.  I can always place a pickup on the trucks if I want to light the inside of the car.  What do you all think of this idea?

BTW...does anyone know what is the minimum radius for one of these brass passenger cars?  I intend to use large radius curves, just want to know ...thanks

In 2-Rail language, I would guess about 48 inch radius curves (that would be (096 in 3-Rail).

That would, of course, be highly dependent upon era being modeled.  The 36' Sierra cars that make up a goodly number of my pass cars look just fine on much tighter curves as do some of the 46-50' cars.

Also, the curves in the yard are probably a little tighter than main line so setting minimums can be variable and dependent.

There are uninsulated 2- rail wheelsets, and you may have inadvertently got them from NWSL.  The suggestions above are all good ones - If i hadn't given away all my K-Line 3-rail trucks, I would have sent a pair to you.

Cutting a brass car is only a good idea if you are aware of what it does to its value.  For instance, a PSC observation car is a $350-$400 deal, used.  Cut it for sharp curves, and I doubt it will be worth a hundred bucks.  Are you enthusiastic enough to throw $300 down the drain?

On the minimum radius - that too will take serious cutting, or an unrealistically high car, to clear your flanges and swinging couplers.  A 60' PSC Harriman would be hard pressed to go around 48" radius, known on this forum as O-96.

Don't do it.  Opinion.