Switching with those big knuckle couplers?

The only ones I have that are true easy closing are the Proto-couplers on my MTH engines. even modern MTH couplers on cars take more impact to latch.

Have you tried powdered graphite lube?

I enjoy spotting cars as well and am frustrated at times over the same issue you describe.  I also use a variety of different cars from different manufactures.  The ease at which couplers mate is very hit and miss it seems.  With regard to the question, what couplers work best, I think it is difficult to say.  I have some Lionel couplers for example that mate very easily, but then there are others that don't.  With all of that said, I guess I would say that generally Lionel couplers mating with other Lionel couplers works best for me. 

I have not really tried to modify or in some way work with the various couplers to improve their performance simply because I am concerned that in the end I might do more harm than good.  I applaud your efforts.  Bo 

Lionel couplers are the best.  Well, from 1945-1948 anyway.

I also enjoy switching .... coal hoppers. I would have to give the nod to the Lionel couplers, over my Atlas and Weaver hoppers. Have not used my MTH hoppers, yet.

Still, I agree that things can be hit and miss. I try to tune them up with the basic procedures.

I have added weight to all of my non-diecast hoppers to help.

I use diecast hoppers whenever I can. Having one at the head of the string of cars to be spotted, for example. It can really enable some slow speed switching. Of course, I only have a small layout .... so the heavy weight, and the cost, of diecast hoppers is less of an issue for me.

Good luck

That was another thing that led to the demise of my 3-rail layout experiment.  I come from an operational background... and those aggravating couplers just wouldn't cut it when trying to switch.  Kadees would be a big improvement in this realm.

As well as operating handbrakes...like they tend to use on the real thing when they're doing such things

---PCJ

I think every car should have electrocouplers so you can do all of this remotely. 

Atlas couplers are fantastic for switching once you rework them with new armature springs.  I use #400E-103 springs for this.  These springs cost 50 cents or so from various Lionel prewar parts dealers.  The springs are cut in half for use on the Atlas cars so one 400E-103 spring does one car. 

You simply turn the Atlas car upside down, remove the small Phillips head screw holding the original spring against the coupler armature, replace the Atlas spring with half of the 400E-103 spring and replace the screw.  You will be amazed at how easily the modified car couples to another car.  This method also works on any MTH car that has a "thumbtack" coupler.

I've had over 100 cars modified this way since 2005 and they continue to couple very gently.  Not quite Kadee easy, but close. 

I've always thought that having to command 'Ramming speed!' when coupling was a part of the fun of 3-rail O gauge operating.  Although I tend to agree that it is not overly prototypical. (Unless of course you grew-up in Southern England, where that method of coupling seemed to be standard practice when joining the 2 parts of the London train at my local terminus. The Southern EMU trains were fitted with knuckle couplers, and I still believe that the drivers were awarded points for the number of passengers toppled. )

I have found that a modest application of graphite powder to all of my couplings helps to improve the action quite a lot, and they also seem to improve with use.

Yours don't

Workin' on it Charlie, workin' on it.

This is the reason I am switching everything to Kadees.  They are not for everyone but for me it makes my life much easier.

Operations involves 2 actions, right: coupling and UNcoupling.

95% of my stuff is RK and I don't have one car that reliably will uncouple from another.  The MTH couplers are too perfectly mated and when I try to uncouple, I sorta see the cam move a hair (and I mean, literally a hair) but they are just too tightly meshed to separate.

Not only can't I get 2 cars to separate, I can't even get an engine to separate from a car using the remote DCS uncouple feature.

Any suggestions?

thanks - walt

I have a lot of RK cars, most of the couplers appear to work better than most of my Lionel stuff.

I'd probably take the Dremel to the inside of the knuckle to give a bit of slack, that might help with the tightness.  There should be a bit of play or they will bind.