Tab and Slot Couplers: Any big problems?

Why add weight to the cars?

If you feel you have to add weight, get stick on wheel weights from auto parts stores, or Harbor Freight. No drilling or soldering.

Well, back to the coupler issue.

Given all of the different types of couplers on the cars, which coupler system is the best please, in terms of trouble free operation and running on the tracks?     I'll probably buy 10 Marx cars, and I will need them to all have the same type of couplers.   

Thanks,

Mannyrock

If you oil the axles, and you should. You won't need weights.

Wow.  Three great answers on the adding weight question, but not a single response to my question about couplers.

Maybe I'm not asking the question right, . . . or maybe I had better get out my sock puppets and post a video.

Tab and slot couplers were sold with American Flyer prewar electric sets from 1918 to 1937 and I have never had any issues with these couplers, when running my sets.  I don't know of any issues with running these types of couplers over switches.

@Mannyrock posted:

Well, back to the coupler issue.

Given all of the different types of couplers on the cars, which coupler system is the best please, in terms of trouble free operation and running on the tracks?     I'll probably buy 10 Marx cars, and I will need them to all have the same type of couplers.   

Thanks,

Mannyrock

Why limit yourself to one kind of coupler?  Depending on how many types you're using, make a few transition cars - one type of coupler on one end, a different type on the other.  Use common, inexpensive cars for this so that you don't alter a collector piece.

For Marx litho cars, Grossman sells couplers, rivets, and a rivet tool.  It's an easy fix.

The tab and slot couplers on the cars I run have plenty of clearance with respect to distance from the track. I've never had any problem with them running on regular O gauge tinplate track or switches. Below are some examples to give you some idea of the coupler/track clearances.

American Flyer

Bing

Dorfan

Fandor

Hafner

Lionel

Marx

  Prewar

Postwar

Modern (Ameritrains)

Probably the only one you'd have trouble with is the brand that did the big tin Rock Island diesels, and the couplers had the prongs up instead of down. (Can't think of it at the moment....Unique?)  T&S is likely less trouble through switches than, say, Marx tilt fork.

Thanks for all of the great advice.

And thanks Robert for those great pictures.

I think that if I let my small grandchildren run the colorful little Tinplate cars for the first few years, they will relate to the hobby much more quickly than having them run the flat painted, realistic cars.

And, I know that this is heresy, but I will probably have a small conventional locomotive pull the cars, instead of trying to get a Tinplate locomotive.  I'm trying to stay cheap and simple to start.  A small diesel Plymouth would look  great.  (May have to rig something to get it coupled to the first car, but that should be easy.)

Thx,

Mannyrock

I'm late to the party, but I wanted to chime in and say that Marx did sell 6" tin cars with Tab & Slot couplers in electric train sets.  The electric versions have rivets holding the coupler to the cars, whereas the (later) windup cars with T&S couplers have a simple twist or punch that keeps them in place.  The windup couplers will slide in and out.  The electric versions with the rivets will back up better around curves. Since the windup couplers slide in & out, they will bunch up when pushed and the carbodies will rub against each other, which can make them more prone to derail when backing through curves.

For that reason, I would strongly suggest that you look for 6" tin cars with riveted T&S couplers, plus they should have metal wheels as well.

Thanks James!

You probably saved me a hundred dollars with that advice!

Mannyrock

Manny,

You’ve been given some really good info.  Regarding weight, you might also try magnets.  I use the disc-shaped ones readily available at your local hardware store.  As they’re removable, they make experimentation easy and can be used interchangeably.

Thanks Jerry.  Would have never thought about magnets.

Mannyrock - I guess I don't understand the need for adding weight to these cars.  I've run consists of 12 or so cars without any issues. I guess if you are planning on mixing these cars with non-tinplate cars like the Lionel 6464 series or the Atlas reefers then I could see where you would run the risk of derailment on curves but if not then I don't think extra weight would be necessary.

This is a windup locomotive pulling a fairly long train of Marx 6" tin cars w/ Tab & Slot couplers running at speed.  All the cars are stock, no weights:

Wow, That's impressive!  What is the locomotive?

Hi Robert,

I don't have any experience with the tinplate cars.  My only experience is with traditional O Gauge, and very often I need to add weight to the cars to keep them from derailing on switches.

If the tinplate don't need any weight, then no, I don't have plans to add any.  (I just assumed that since they are so light, they may do alot of bouncing around.)

Windup, that is a great video.  Thanks!

Mannyrock

@Les Randler posted:

Wow, That's impressive!  What is the locomotive?

It is a kitbashed creation made from two broken Marx 401 windup locomotives with another Marx riser gear windup motor in the tender... a homemade Triplex:

Now that is Really Impressive!