Anyone know what size Tech tape to use on a MTH c30-7?
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I'm guessing that most are the same. Look at your other diesels for the same size.
I'd yours a premier or railking?
Hi Joe, Its a premier that I am upgrading to PS2.
When you open the kit, you'll find something that looks like the picture below. There is a convenient flywheel scale that you just measure the flywheel with and then select the correct tape and apply it.
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Hi John, I did that but there is a gap between the first black mark and the last black mark, bigger then the rest. Do you think I should go up one step. right now there is a 27.7 mm that I put on.
Never mind John, I just used my calipers and matched it up with the scale and it says I should have put a 30mm on there.
Thanks for your time.
Yep, about 98% of them use the 30mm tape, I was going to suggest that but I figured you should measure.
Thanks again, and on a side note. I will be ordering some of your lighting boards for passenger cars.
I didn't know you were even upgrading.��
I wasn't going to, but the QSI board wasn't doing anything when I put power to it. And I bought this PS2 board last February from a forum member and it has been just sitting there so what the heck, Thought I would give it a try. My first one and everything works but the lights. Not bad for a first shot.
What is happening with the lights?
It is pretty straight forward. Some times the board just needs to be reset.
I plugged them into the cab light and number board pins cause there are no connections for front and back lights. they came on and then went off and haven't came back on again.
No here is the big problem, I have no DCS, TIU, AIU. Just a good old Z4000. But I do plan on get all that down the road.
No connections for front and back lights? If this is a new kit, there most CERTAINLY should be connectors for them!
No John, its a used one. It has a place for number board, and cab lights. but nothing to hook into. and When I fallow the wires they say to hook them up to they go the rear tether plug.
the board may have come from an engine that had a harness connector to the body. otherwise it would be a blue receptacle for the front headlight.
if you connect too many bulbs to one place you will fry the FET.
look at the ps2 upgrade instructions for a wiring diagram.
Hi Joe, I have them printed out, and a PDF so I can blow them up. I see where things are to plug into, but what I and saying is there is no plugs coming from the board. I have one blue connector and it has a light blue and purple wire to it. I pluged the front light into it and nothing.
The purple wire has to go to PV. Also, if you've inadvertently shorted the light output or touched either to the frame, the lighting FET is probably history. That may be why this setup is "used", perhaps a little abused.
Whats PV? Also when I first powered it up they cam on for about 1 minute then went out. everything else works great. Probably something stupid I did.
Guess, I will try again tomorrow.
Thanks everyone!!!
Yeah, it sounds like the FET might have shorted. If not, a reset may bring the lights back on.
I have seen boards that have a large plug that goes into the shell that carries several lighting wires. I think they're mainly on G scale?
Joe, is there a way to do a reset with just a Z4000?
yes, press 1 horn and 5 bell buttons
Ok I will give it a try.
ok, no change. I think what I am going to do is fallow the wires where they come off the 12 pin plug and just hook up like the wire diagram says too.
Any thoughts or advice?
Is there any way to check the lights?
I use 2 AAA batteries in a holder to test things.
did the horn sound after you tried the reset?
Just follow the instructions for the lighting connectors.
Yes the horn, and bell both worked after reset.
Can I solder new wire ends on without hurting the board?
Here's a section of the schematic, note that PV is on pin 2 of the 12 pin connector. It's common for all the incandescent lights and couplers.
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Hi John, quick question. Can I apply power right from the test track to test the lights in the shell?
The bulbs are 6V bulbs, track power will cook them.
when you do a conventional reset, the horn will sound to indicate that it took
Ok, Thanks guys. when I tried the reset. the horn didn't sound at the end.
A conventional reset is not a cure-all, you may need a DCS factory reset as well.
I don't think I can do that with just a Z4000. But hell I don't know I am in uncharted waters for me. If it wasn't for guys like you I might as well throw it out in the snow! LOL
FYI, I put 5v to the shell lights, using the same power source I use to run my LED's and nothing. If that matters.
yes that means the bulbs are fried if you connected them correctly
I used an extra pug that fit it, and wired it to my LED power supply. I even tested an LED to make sure it was working.
Can I just replace them with LED's ? if so do I still need the 4 wires going to each bulb?
An LED power supply may be current limited and not be able to drive the bulbs. You need 6 volts at 60ma for them.
ok, but if they are blown, can I put LED's back in? or will they just blow?
In order to use LED's with PS/2, you need a series 220 ohm resistor for each LED. Also, the positive lead for the LED goes to the purple (PV) lead from pin 2 of the 12 pin connector.
Well I hope this work, I don't know if my LED's have a 220 ohm resistor.