... the Atlas GP35s - Ready to roll!

Looking good Mario! Question, I ordered the GP30 set from Shapeways in black. I sanded them lightly and tried to paint with Scalecoat by Minuteman scale models and it didn't want to grab. Do you prime yours first? Thanks.

They need to be soaked in a cleaner.... then primed

Good question and I think LOS might have it, because I have yet to paint anything from Shapeways. I've only painted my own printed items. 

LOS, what do we clean them with?

Thanks. 

Soak them in Bestine... its a thinner used for rubber cement that you can find at art supply stores like Michaels. 

I only know this because I bought some derails from Shapeways and the guy who designed them, told me that all the parts need to be soaked. Worked like a champ.

Isoproypl alcohol might work but I didn't try it. The parts are brittle already and alcohol will only make that worse in my opinion.

I need a set of these. Are they up on shape ways yet? I still have the GP30 spacers in my drawers. Have not had a single day to do any modeling in over a month. So good to know about cleaning them if I ever get time to use them

theteejmiester posted:

I need a set of these. Are they up on shape ways yet? I still have the GP30 spacers in my drawers. Have not had a single day to do any modeling in over a month. So good to know about cleaning them if I ever get time to use them

They are. 

jonnyspeed posted:

Looking good Mario! Question, I ordered the GP30 set from Shapeways in black. I sanded them lightly and tried to paint with Scalecoat by Minuteman scale models and it didn't want to grab. Do you prime yours first? Thanks.

I have sanded and primed first. Then painted without any issues.

In fact, I just updated it to match the plate steel added to the bottom of the pilot.

Here they are... in black, straight from Shapeways. 

One more...

Mario, 

Quick question.  Just bought  an Atlas CB&Q/ C&S SD 40. Do you know if the pilot used on the GP/ SD 35 the same as the SD 40?

I dont know but I'm guessing they are not. None of their stuff is the same... at least none of mine are. The holes are off by half, or the step has a different curve, or the pilot is just a bit narrower. Every one of these things needs a specific design so Mario can't make a "universal" fitting kit. 

If Atlas had the separate parts to sell I could understand them wanting to sell more parts. They never have the 2R pilot stuff in stock...keeps Mario busy at the computer though.

Doug 

That would be my thinking too. Here's something I discovered. The pilot for the MTH GP 30 is the same for the GP 7/9 which is incorrect for that model. So it would make since that the GP/SD 35 pilot would be the same as as the SD 40. Looking at pics of the real thing they appear to be the same. I am going to email the seller to get close ups of the pilots so I can compare.

Doug

Sorry had to deal with an issue. Being a parent can be fun.  Next thing, looking at the SD 24 pilot this  would be close substitute for the GP 7/9. Now I been test fitting with spare pilots and have found the following. 

With minor sanding the revised GP 7/9 mount fits the MTH GP 30.

The revised GP 30 mount is a perfect match for the  premier SD 24 and SD45 although you will still need to trim off back of the mount and use a 743. The RK scale SD45 has a different pilot.

The GP 30 mount will work in the Weaver RS 11 and the U25B. The Revised SD40 will be a better fit.

Still have to check the fit for the MTH GP35 and the U25B but from looking at both the GP7/9 will work.

The revised GP40 will now work with the Lionel U28/30/33 pilots but still have to add a shims for correct height.

Doug

There's an elephant in the corner that is being ignored, prototypical accuracy. 

Although the thickness is probably going to be common between multiple manufacturers, this was not the case for the real world. 

Take in point the difference between an ALCo, FM and EMD coupler system (haven't done a GE yet). 

Early ALCo:

Late ALCo:

EMD:

FM:

if there's one that you are particularly keen on, just send it to me like LOS did for the GP60s. 

And yes... it's hours in front of the computer measuring, drawing, fitting...

suzukovich posted:

Mario, 

 

Quick question.  Just bought  an Atlas CB&Q/ C&S SD 40. Do you know if the pilot used on the GP/ SD 35 the same as the SD 40?

I've converted both models and they are not the same pilots. I have a spare set of SD 40 pilots, but they won't fit the GP35. I improvised one GP35 conversion with a filler and a eventually scored a pair of two-rail pilots to do a second unit (if I ever find time). I really appreciate that guys like Mario and Thor are doing this for us, though, and plan to use their parts on a few projects. 

RM

Rich Montague posted:

suzukovich posted:

Mario, 

 

Quick question.  Just bought  an Atlas CB&Q/ C&S SD 40. Do you know if the pilot used on the GP/ SD 35 the same as the SD 40?

I've converted both models and they are not the same pilots. I have a spare set of SD 40 pilots, but they won't fit the GP35. I improvised one GP35 conversion with a filler and a eventually scored a pair of two-rail pilots to do a second unit (if I ever find time). I really appreciate that guys like Mario and Thor are doing this for us, though, and plan to use their parts on a few projects. 

RM

So your saying that the GP35 will work with modification and filler. Same I did with using GP40 mount on the U30C?  The seller sent pics of the pilot that I asked for and it appears that I might be able to repurpose the SD40 mounts. 

I agree what Mario( who started doing this along time ago) and Thor are making great contributions to the hobby in both 2R and 3RS which is getting more popular. The fact that I have been able to adapt Mario's products to MTH one others manufacturers says alot about the designs.

Welcome back!

after a little while, I finally decided that I need to finish this unit. 

So, to go with the looks of the great Protocraft coupler, here's my first hand bent coupler cut bar, using EMD pictures. It's a 3-piece bar. 

I designed a jig to bend them, so I can get them the same every time. 

Thanks!

-Mario

Excellent, Mario!!  

Question: Did you solder the 3 pieces together off of (away from) the locomotive pilot and then install it already threaded through the eye brackets as one "assembly"...or did you manage to solder them together on the locomotive without damaging anything else?  Either way, nice work!

CNJ #1601 posted:

Excellent, Mario!!  

Question: Did you solder the 3 pieces together off of (away from) the locomotive pilot and then install it already threaded through the eye brackets as one "assembly"...or did you manage to solder them together on the locomotive without damaging anything else?  Either way, nice work!

I soldered it off the unit first, the installed the eyelets that were threaded on the bar afterward. I used a pin to apply the adhesive to the eyelet pins before inserting completely. Yes, it was a pain. 

Compare:

Thanks!

-Mario

Thanks for the reply.  Man, can I can relate to your "pain" comment!!  I hand bent my first coupler cut lever to replace a missing one on the MTH L.V. Baldwin switcher pictured below. 

Unlike your 3-piece bar, I formed mine in one piece from music wire and then threaded the 4 eyelet "brackets" on.  That was the EASY part.  The hard part, as it turned out, was trying to insert the 4 eyelet stems into the pre-drilled pilot holes with only two hands! 

It sounds so easy but I can't believe how long it took to get all 4 into their respective holes at the SAME time!  Until you actually try to do this, you have no idea...LOL!

CNJ #1601 posted:

Thanks for the reply.  Man, can I can relate to your "pain" comment!!  I hand bent my first coupler cut lever to replace a missing one on the MTH L.V. Baldwin switcher pictured below. 

Unlike your 3-piece bar, I formed mine in one piece from music wire and then threaded the 4 eyelet "brackets" on.  That was the EASY part.  The hard part, as it turned out, was trying to insert the 4 eyelet stems into the pre-drilled pilot holes with only two hands! 

It sounds so easy but I can't believe how long it took to get all 4 into their respective holes at the SAME time!  Until you actually try to do this, you have no idea...LOL!

Exactly!  

Put just the end in, dab a spot of CA on the post with a pin, push it home. Repeat three more times. Uggh!  It took about an hour.

its worth it. 

Try that in HO scale....thats even more fun 

CentralFan1976 posted:

Welcome back!

after a little while, I finally decided that I need to finish this unit. 

So, to go with the looks of the great Protocraft coupler, here's my first hand bent coupler cut bar, using EMD pictures. It's a 3-piece bar. 

I designed a jig to bend them, so I can get them the same every time. 

Thanks!

-Mario

Mario it looks good. Now you have me thinking about the protocraft couplers.  I can also feel the pain with the draw bars too. On several I have had to reposition the eyelids as they were to close to gather and interfere with the mounts. Still haven't finished the RS11s what a pain in the a**!  I gotten a few done in the last couple of months. Repurposed the GP60 mounts for the install on the Atlas SD40. Ultimately I way behind on conversions. Although I just took delivery of a pair of Lionel BN SD 40-2s. Easy installation just hope I have enough 40 mounts. Need to start ordering more mounts. Really need to finish the FAs and now MTH F3s. I am thinking I will be able to use the PA mounts on the F3s. 

Laidoffsick posted:

Try that in HO scale....thats even more fun 

No thanks!

Done!

I've actually finished a project!

Painted & installed the foot boards, pilot steps and touched up the rest where needed.

Thanks!

-Mario

Ok... so it wasn't really quite done. 

Painted the wheels, added the ATS shoe and painted the fuel tank gauge. 

Now we're done... or are we?

Its too clean 

Laidoffsick posted:

Its too clean 

I KNOW!!!

Last step...

I used Bondic to create "glass" in the Liquidometer fuel gauge in the tank. 

I really need to finish the GP20...

I was asked for install instructions, please see attached.