Skip to main content

Well, after all these years, finally getting to wiring my layout (which is roughly 9x14, U shaped with a bridge over the open end (that hopefully someday I'll have set up as removable).

Either I have gotten old or it really was as tedious as it can be, even on a modest layout. I am wiring it for block control, but plan on adding dcs and legacy to it later when finances allows it. I have roughly 18 track blocks and 13 remote switches on it, to give an idea (and yeah, it is a lot of blocks, that are relatively short, but with 1 feeder per block I can make sure that track power won't have losses and allow for the dcs signal to be alone). 

I of course promised myself to do it right this time, so I have a wiring diagram with the appropriate labels, I am labelling the full run of the power and switch cables to the panel every foot or 18" or so, trying to neatly hold it under the layout....and doing it right seems to take forever, it is like to run the wire from the track to the panel and the toggle switch, soldering the connection to the track, soldering the 2 ground wires in each block to the outside rails (after realizing soldering a block wire to the inside of the outer rails isn't smart.....), then connecting the ground wires to the ground bus via 2 3 way wago connectors, takes a lot of time, along with soldering to the toggle the wires from the A/D hot from my ZW via jones blocks for each. I figured it is taking me about an hour for each block or switch to be fully wired and labelled.

The wiring still looks like a a collection of yarn jumbled together in a drawer though, though still better than the old days.

One of the things that is annoying is when I run out of wire (which of course I never order enough!), it isn't easy to get what I need (I am running 16 gauge for the power to the blocks and the common negative buss and the 14v fixed for the switch machines, and 18 for the track feeders) is how hard it is to get it locally. What HD and Lowes have is limited, and hardware stores that used to carry wire don't. Auto parts stores at one time had decent wire for people patching harnesses, but that is a lost art...so basically you have to order from Amazon and hope it shows up quickly.

With Soldering, I am re-acquiring soldering skills I never had before. Gun Runner John saved me agony by pointing out it is smart to tin the wire, tin the rail and then connect them, and yes, it works well, even for me. Of course, using a weller gun ,another GRJ suggestion (which is a fantastic tool), I managed to destroy a couple of micro toggles I use on the panel by melting them, until I realized a)it was not a good idea to wire to the toggles when on the panel, to bench wire feeds to the three connectors and then do a wire to wire connection in the panel  (that cost me 3 toggle switches to learn) and b)that with a weller gun, it heats up the things being soldered really quickly, it just takes a touch (see another several toggles,melted insulation, etc).

Then of course there is feeding the track feeders or the switch wires through my 4" of foam (another experiment) and the plywood, that is like trying to do the limbo when you have 'middle aged spread' like I do (hint, I have never and will never try the limbo.....).

By the end of wiring one run I swear I felt like I used to putting down mulch in the spring. Fortunately, working under the table is not as hard as it used to be, it is high enough I don't have to lie on a creeper to work under there, I can sit and work comfortably and don't have to reach much either (though I do have to be careful where I sit, the vicious psychopathic predator aka our supposed loving cat who leaves me chipmunk heads when displeased, might have shown his dismay at my wiring techniques under the table) . But I am shocked to find out when I finish the run that time when working accelerates, that what I thought was an hour suddenly is 3 (yet mysteriously time slows down, as in wanting the layout to be done).

Makes you wish Tesla had perfected over the air power.......

Seriously, it is good to make progress and the fault lies not in the stars but with the fact (to my father's consternation) that I am genetically predisposed from being an engineer or even an electronics tech. I also give due credit to the folks on here whose wiring is a work of art (and not the kind of art where a jumble of poorly done, color mismatched wiring can fetch you a lot of money at auction; maybe I should try and auction off my control panel or sell it to the Museum of Modern Art). Also grateful over the years to the people who have given very valuable suggestions that I promptly forgot when starting this project. In gratitude I promise not to publish pictures of my wiring, I don't want to contribute to people laughing themselves to death.........

In all seriousness, despite the above, I am grateful to people on this forum who despite my lack of skills, have made it where this project likely will work. Wago connectors have made my life easier, as have the many suggestions to label the wiring, advice on soldering and so forth that I desperately needed. Have like 11 switches to wire, and then I can test it all and see if it goes up in a blaze of glory or actually works

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

@bigkid posted:

With Soldering, I am re-acquiring soldering skills I never had before. Gun Runner John saved me agony by pointing out it is smart to tin the wire, tin the rail and then connect them, and yes, it works well, even for me. Of course, using a weller gun ,another GRJ suggestion (which is a fantastic tool), I managed to destroy a couple of micro toggles I use on the panel by melting them, until I realized a)it was not a good idea to wire to the toggles when on the panel, to bench wire feeds to the three connectors and then do a wire to wire connection in the panel  (that cost me 3 toggle switches to learn) and b)that with a weller gun, it heats up the things being soldered really quickly, it just takes a touch (see another several toggles,melted insulation, etc).

Although I rarely use it, do note that the Weller gun has two heat settings, don't pull the trigger all the way and you get lower heat.   It's still 100 watts, so you want to be somewhat careful of things getting overheated.  The Weller is really for brute soldering as it has no temperature control, so it's more like a blowtorch than a fine soldering instrument.

I solder switches and the like using my soldering station of my Hakko FX601-02 Adjustable Temperature Controlled Soldering Iron.  This is my tool for soldering finer wiring, etc. when I'm away from the bench (like under the layout).

Of course, on the workbench, it's my trusty Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station that gets the nod for soldering work.

Attachments

Images (2)
  • mceclip0
  • mceclip1

To keep from melting the plastic on some switch connectors use a needle nosed pliers and apply to the connector between the plastic and the end for the solder.  Hold the pliers on with a rubber band over the handles.

If you do not already have a good wire stripper get one.

Here is a a way to add wires to track sections or connectors for track switches for a table set up already.   Drill a hole near the desired contact place, locate were not visible from the track, and insert the wire in the hole from the top and run to its destination.  Cut the wire off, with slack and solder it on the top of the board to the track or wire to the switch contact thus eliminating much soldering under the board.  You also can do the above but just add 1 foot links of wire from the top with insulation striped 1/2 inch end parts in the hole by the track or switch connector.  Then use wire nuts to attach the longer wire under the layout.

I get my wire from garage sales looking to buy part of the spools.  You could get a spool of 500 ft stranded 16 ga at HD .



The control panel below has controls for 20 track switches and all tracks are wired track sections with ON/OFF switches.  The track was wired with the layout section leaning against a wall making wiring much easier than working under the layout.

IMG_1285



8 My Trains 4-18-2016 014



I agree with you about a mess of wires.  All my wire 16 or 14 ga wires had 8 inch 20 ga wire pigtails to the control panel to give flexibility to move the top as shown below.  I do not have a track wiring diagram but do have sketches of wiring for some individual circuits like the two 2 trains on 1 track systems.

102_0448

The pictures are from my OGR forum Layout building topic linked below.  Bottom of page 1, post 1 has a topic Table of Contents.

https://ogrforum.com/topic/evo...95#60276340902001695

Charlie

@bigkid - something that is working for me to collect wires together underneath my layout:  fire a staple into the plywood using a staple gun, run a bread tie 1/2 way through the staple-to-plywood gap, then gather wires and tie them together.  It is fully flexible where you shoot a staple, and when you add a wire you’ll simply untwist the bread tie and retwist after inserting.  Cheap organizing solution for beneath the railroad.

For better or worse, it seems we learn well from our mistakes.  So I try to work up the courage to hurry up and make more mistakes so I can learn more and faster!  This forum is terrific for learning and discovering options.

I got some wire from Tractor Supply, but most from my local Electronics Supply company in Kansas City - fortunate to have one!  eskc.com

Last edited by Hannibal-St Joseph RR

@gunrunnerjohn yeah, I had to figure that out, was using it at the highest setting. I have a standard weller pencil iron that for track work, wasn't that good. I wouldn't use the gun for doing anything on a circuit board or the like, I have gotten to the point where I can solder to the toggle switch or solder connect wires with just a quick dab, thanks to pre tinning and using very thin solder.

@Choo Choo Charlie  At least my panel isn't the only one that looks like spaghetti! With the track wiring the soldering is done on top, for the switch machines where the wire is short (I have dz1000s that for some reason have the wires soldered to the machine, rather than a set screw like older ones) I solder a longer length on the table top then push it through, all my connections under the table are Wago connectors which have worked great for me so far.

I have my wiring running through cable clamps where the end is open (so I can add wire into it without threading it through and can pull wires out if need be). I'll bundle wires together between the last support under the table and the panel, if I ever need to trace down or replace a wire I can deal with that easily.

I plan on fully testing all the circuits , making sure blocks are really isolated, that the toggle switch is directing the proper A/D channel or off to a block, test the switch machines, make sure the lights on the controller and switch indicate the path properly, etc. Coming from a software test background it comes naturally to test the heck out of it

Here are some photos of wiring I'm doing.  The stick on wire tie mounts and the conduit clamps as well as the terminal boards are from Amazon.  Much cheaper than HD or Lowe's.  I drill holes in the cross 2x4s for wires, keeps it up above head level and it's harder to snag it.  The clamps I'm using are 1" but they are available in all sizes.



I don't mark any wires as I'm wiring, I label the terminals they are going to.  If I ever had to remove a bunch I'd label them then.  You only really need to know what wire it is at each end, not sure what the benefit is to labeling the wires in the middle?



PXL_20241210_112031374PXL_20241210_112026672PXL_20241210_111837392

Attachments

Images (3)
  • PXL_20241210_112031374
  • PXL_20241210_112026672
  • PXL_20241210_111837392
Last edited by Dougklink
@cngw posted:

You guys are trying really hard to make me look bad!!! This year's won't look much better.....if I can get it done. Greg (I get a lot of mileage out of that pict)

Somehow, the pic brought to mind a quote widely (and accurately) attributed to Ruby O. Meredith: "Stop shifting inconsequential paraphernalia!"

[And no, unless you attended school in Cambridge, MD in the 1960's, like both Greg and I did, this will not make any sense!]

Last edited by Steve Tyler

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×