The only K-Line Superstreets Camaro (K899-139) ever made? (Pics, video)

Where's the flashing lights? 

lee that looks super!!! now i have to start looking for the 98 body style as i own a 98 b4c police car special in dark blue. another project to the list

Looks great but I believe it was speeding thru Main St. In a previous post I thought you had said that the speed limit in town was 25 MPH. (LOL)

Lee,

   What no 69 Z28, bummer!

PCRR/Dave

Impressive. Most impressive. 

I tend to agree,  looks like its going way faster than the speed limit, but I guess thats what happens when you drive a Camaro.  Really nice looking car!

That is awesome.

I also have been looking for this superstreets car and am pretty sure it was never made. My best friend is an officer with the NYPD and his first car was an 86 camaro (same body style as this one). I bought his son the die-cast car, if I could convert one into a runner it would be the greatest. 

I don't have any superstreets vehicles, etc. so I don't know what you mean by different chassis. Could you give a little more detail so I could make one?

Thanks.

-Tom

Here are some details.  

The Camaro I bought from Western Depot: just type the word Camaro into their serach box on the left of their home page and it will give you a product page with this listed.  $3.95 each.

The chassis comes from the Superstreets vintage truck.  There are many models numbers - they were made by both K-Line and K-Line by Lionel.  Here is one of them:

First photo below is of the completed car disassembled, showing the chassis as modified.  I do not have a picture now of an unmodified chassis. The Camaro body is completely unmodified, and the lightly modified Superstreets chassis shown below mounts to the two original screw mounting holes that held its chassis in place, with the screws (one shown) that came with it.

Step I: You remove the chassis and interior from the Camaro and discard it.  You remove the diecast body from the Superstreets chassis and discard that: to do so you loosen one screw about an 1/2 inch behind the front axle, then pull the front up and away from the chassis and the body sort of hinges around a tab holding the back in snugly to the chassis.

Step II: You must shorten the Superstreets chassis wheelbase to fit the Camaro bod, by removing 3/4 inch from the chassis.   I made my first cut just in front of the round, molded recess in the chassis that holds the rectifier (fine red line in photo below), and the second cut exactly 3/4 inch forward of that.   I did not disassemble the chassis to do this: I made my cuts with a razor saw, from the underside with it upside down, and by being careful did not cut or hurt any of the wires of the copper  tongue from the front axle  connector.  This left me with a chassis of the right wheelbase, but in two pieces. 

Step III: I superglued 3/16th by 1/16 inch styrene rod about 1 inch in length to the top sides, clamping and letting cure (red arrows).  They were white but are painted black here. 

Step IV: I turned it over and did similarly on the underside.  

Step V: I trial fit the chassis in the car, then made the rear chassis extension shown at the right, piece by piece  (1) I mounted the vertical piece to the chassis with superglue: its about 3/4 wide by 3/8 inch high.  Then mounted piece 2, about the same size and shape, the reinforcing pieces (3) for strength with that same glue, then carefully positioned and drilled the hole right over the rear mounting screw hole (4).  The  vertical positioning tab (5)  on each side of the screw hole were necessary to keep the body from wobbling side to side when the screw was in.  I had to work to cut and file these to exactly the right length so the chassis would fit up into the body at the rear but only just enough to permit the right looking clearance for the rear wheels in the wheel wells. 

Step V, at the front, I superglued this 3.4 by 1/2 inch, 1/32 inch styrene piece (6) to the front and eyeballed carefully and drilled a hole for the front mounting screw (7).  The two small spacers on either side at the front (8) were necessary for the front wheel to wheel well clearance to look right.  

Step VI: I carefully cut a piece of c#600 wet-dry sandpaper to fit flush and flat for the "interior" and used small bits of Gorilla tape to hold it in place.  I cut the shoulders and head off a policeman figure and glued it in place above. 

Step VII: I positioned the chassis and inserted and tightened the two screws. I painted the wheels silver and all the white plastic styrene flat black.   Done.  

The doors still open although by doing so you look inside and see the motor. 

Wow. Thanks! That is a great set of instructions, and very nice work as well.

I will keep an eye out for the correct donor truck and hopefully I will be able to do this. My friend (and I) will love it.

-Tom

Lee, this American Flyer slot car is on E-Bay now. I think you should buy it and rework it to run on your Super Streets. Don