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I took a break from detail work on the layout to build two more sets of shelves yesterday.  It felt good to handle, cut, and assemble something heavy and substantial, and use woodworking clamps and all for a change.  

 

Anyway, I completed these two sets of shelves, 36" high with six 48" long shelves each, that sit under the edge of the layout.  They are hinged at the red dotted line and swing out so I can get at 12" deep bookcase shelves behind them.  

 

And this morning they are full, all 48 feet of new shelves consumed by stuff that "needs a place to be." So they are full, just like the other 125 feet I have added in the last two months.  On the other hand, I no longer have to have a train or two made up on the layout.  For the first time in recent memory I can do not have to leave any locos or rolling stock on the layout - there is a shelf for everything.  

 

Just to be on the safe side, I will add 12 more feet tomorrow (a section half the length of one of these two). I figure it's Christmastime and so there will probably be a few more cars and such to put somewhere in a week or so . . . 

More shelves

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  • More shelves
Last edited by Lee Willis
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Lee, and others, I am captivated by the collections of trains on your selves.  Just great eye candy!  So far, I have succeeded in exercising self control on buying trains and keep all my trains on my layout.  (Even those 9 K-line tank cars I acquired and repainted.)   But it operationally gets crowded, so I am redoing a small problem stub yard to make it O-72 friendly and adding a longer siding in another area. 

Nice work Lee, I hope you have a seatbelt for those flat cars!

 

Your not alone it seems Mine stay full as well.  These shelve hold 27 complete transets, albeit mostly preand postwar so mostly shorter than full scale or modern cars.  Point is, they are still full and I could fill another 20 sets worth as well.... They used to come down two rows lower but I removed the two rows in order to gain some separation between the layout and the shelves in case a backdrop ever made it to the layout...

 

Lee, YOU ARE THE MAN!!!!!!!  Bob Villa has nothing on you!!!  Very nice shelves.  Did you use a piano hinge or door hinges?  And, what did you use for a back on these new shelves?   I like your creativeness in doing shelves in front of shelves.  LOL  So cool!!!!  Your next project...drop down shelves from the ceiling.

 

I have just the opposite problem.  I have so many shelves I don't have room for a layout.  LOL

 

Rick

Safety meeting of the day.  Note that train shelves have the potential of supporting a lot of weight.  GSDS,  Glenn Snyder Display System, Recommends #10 X 1 1/2" Pan head screws, at least (4) per 6ft section.  Properly installed, Center of stud/wall support. 

 

 Installation Instructions: 
Glenn Snyder Display Systems are  easy to install. You will  need the following tools: An electric drill, 1/8" and 3/16" drill  bits, a level, #10 x  1-1/2" round head, pan head or truss head sheet metal screws for each  stud and   spacing blocks. Spacing blocks should be as high as the distance  between the shelves, generally between 5-1/2" or 6" for O gauge. Studs are usually  located 16" or 24" apart on center. Electrical outlets are generally attached to  the side of a stud,   which is the easiest way to locate one, or may be found with a  magnetic stud finder.

Installation Instructions: Using the level, draw a line where you would like the bottom shelf  to be located. Locate the studs along this line. Mark the stud spacing and transfer the marks to the back of the shelf. Using the  3/16"drill bit, drill clearance holes in the shelf from the back, using the groove to locate the tip of the drill bit. Using the 1/8" drill bit, drill pilot holes in the studs and fasten your shelf with the #10x1-1/2" long sheet metal screws. (We use them instead of wood screws as they are threaded to the top of the screw giving them more fastening power.) Once the bottom shelf is fastened, place the  spacing blocks on the top of the rails, equal distance apart. Place the next shelf on top of the blocks and mark where each fastener hole is to  be drilled. Remove the shelf, drill the holes in the shelf and in the studs and attach the second shelf. Continue installing the shelving  by using the spacing blocks until installation is complete.

Use of Connecting Pins: On walls where longer shelves are needed or uneven areas, use the connecting pins that are supplied. Tap ends of pins open with a  center punch or similar tool. Slide one end onto a rail and gently tap it with a hammer until the pin is all the way on the rail. Take the second shelf and locate the open end of the pin on the corresponding rail. Tap the pin half way back until the two shelves meet, then fasten the shelf to the wall. If  your walls are uneven, place  screws through  washers where needed between the shelf and the wall until  the shelving remains straight when the screws are tightened.

Last edited by Mike CT

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