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Good evening everyone,

 

          I decided to take a few pictures today of this engine. While I was taking some photos, I decided to take a video of this fabulous engine.

IMO one of the best engines Lionel has produced, hence my title of this thread, it's a keeper!!!!!!!!!  The sounds are just awesome.

 

          LIONEL LEGACY UNION PACIFIC FEF

 

Enjoy the video's,

Alex

 

 

 

Last edited by Alex M
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Originally Posted by G3:

Awesome engine and I love the sounds. I also love the water reflection...very realistic. Any chance I could find out how you made the water? Please?

 

George (G3)

Hi George,  thanks for the nice comment's

 

The water is a product from Scenic Express, here's the link

http://www.sceneryexpress.com/.../productinfo/EN2032/

 

Before I mixed and poured the Envirotex resin on ,I painted a small section of drop ceiling transparent textured light panel. Then I poured the resin. you must read the instructions for the Envirotex, after you pour it on you will need to heat it up to get the air bubbles out .

 

Thanks,

alex

So the textured light panel is cut to shape, placed on the layout and the resin poured over the light panel? Correct? What color did you paint the light panel? Sorry about all the questions, but I really liked what I saw and would like to duplicate, so the more details you can give me, the more mine will look like yours. Thanks,

 

George (G3)

Hi George,

 

I would be glad to help you anyway that I can, that's the great thing about this forum.

 

Yes the textured light panel is cut into your desired shape, then I painted it a leaf green and a dark green to get some lighter and darker area's. Which makes it look a bit deeper in certain area's. I would use a couple of test pieces first, and when you're happy with the color then I would paint the piece you're going to install. The best way to get rid of the air bubbles when you pour the resin is with a burnsamatic torch. I have years of experience using this torch, if you don't then you must use extreme caution. don't put the flame to close to the resin, and you must keep the torch moving back and fourth across the resin until all the air bubbles are gone. I would stay about 8 to 10 inches away from the resin.

 

Thanks,

Alex

 

IMG_0978

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Originally Posted by G3:

Thanks Alex. I don't know about the torch thing...kinda scary. Would an electric heat gun work? I have one of those. I'm filing your instructions so they're available when I'm ready...which shouldn't be too long.

 

George (G3)

George,

I think the heat gun will work it's not as hot as the torch, but I still think it will be good enough.Remember to keep it 8 inches away from the resin and keep moving the heat gun across the entire area

 

Alex

Hi George. Regretfully I did not see this thread until now. It appears that most everyone has a misconception regarding the "torching" of resins. It is NOT the HEAT of the burning flame the causes the air bubble to disappear... BUT the carbon dioxide (CO2) emitted from the flame that causes the bubbles to rise and burst (know in the trade as 'De-Gas'). A heat gun will do nothing but blow dust onto you sticky resin.  I personally use a BBQ lighter with an extended wand. The flame is just the right intensity to work in tight spots. I use a propane torch for larger areas. Regardless of which method, the flame will not hurt or effect the cure of epoxy resins.  With delicate details such as cattails, mosses, grass tufts, etc. I will employ a "high-tech" McDonald's plastic straw and gently blow on to the resin surface. Your exhale breath has enough CO2 to do the job. Just don't inhale or hyperventilate. You will need to De-Gas three times during the cure: 1st - after the first 10 minutes after your initial pour. 2nd - after 25 minutes. And 3rd -  finally after 45 minutes.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Jim Elster

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