Thought about picking one or two up just for looks. They do not have functioning lights. Could pick one up for $25 ish.
Would I be better off holding out for fully functioning signals?
Opinions?
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The new Z stuff signal bridges look similar and are costly. Some members have electrified the Bachmann bridges for a lot less than the Z items.
Looks really good from here! Most guys would hold off and maybe never get it done. I say go for it! You could add light heads later. Who makes this one??
Originally Posted by DMASSO:
The new Z stuff signal bridges look similar and are costly. Some members have electrified the Bachmann bridges for a lot less than the Z items.
I was going to suggest Z Stuff as well. I just ordered my first signals from them, but based on what I've heard and seen, the pre-installed sensors and more or less "plug and play" capabilities are a no brainer if you can afford the rather costly products. All you have to do is add power and they do the rest, changing colors, etc. I'm looking forward to getting my first ones.
Originally Posted by Enginear-Joe:
Looks really good from here! Most guys would hold off and maybe never get it done. I say go for it! You could add light heads later. Who makes this one??
Joe - this appears to be Bachmann Plasticville Bridge. I have a non-functioning one on my layout that I raised up a bit so I could run electrics with their pantographs raised.
Yes, Plasticville. I do like the looks of it.
Back in 1983 I put several Bachmann bridges together and popped out the lenses in the signal heads and 5mm LEDS were snapped back in place. I wired these to switch machines so I could tell routing from the other side of my room. Yes, I know it is not prototypical but I am a toy train guy and this is an operating layout. I have never had to replace one LED.
Wow Marty, that's a creative idea! I would like to do that with my G scale too. I might as well have those track signal bulbs doing something.
Thank you Joe. My pictures are not good but the bridges do look good.
I like this thread...already some good ideas! Marty....I have quite a few of those bridges and never thought about LEDs. Another thing I am going to copy from you!!
Thanks,
Alan
That one does look good. I have the RailKing one, but haven't installed it yet. It looks quite large. Anyone know if it is larger than O scale? If so, how bad? Maybe I'll also need to consider a different one like the Z stuff.
Hey Marty, you posted your pitures while I was typing up my post. Yours look really neat, did you use 12 volt LED's or did you add your own dropping resisters to them?
The LEDS are by a company called Linrose. My local supply house is U Do it Electronics in Needham, Mass. I choose to use those components as I do with switches. I try to buy quality. For pennies more it is worth doing so. I like to do a job one time and move to the next job. Linrose is in New York. I powered the system with 12 volts DC and dropped them down with 680 ohm 1/2 watt resistors. They have been on the layout for almost 30 years and I have not lost one LED or one resistor. What I liked was the LED would snap in the hole on the signal head.
I have several on the layout. You can pick up postwar versions for less than 25, at train shows. They look good. It doesn't matter to me that they are non-operating. But, then, I am very partial to PW Plasticville. If operating lights are your interest, you can go the LED route, or get one of the fine operating signal bridges marketed by various vendors.
Originally Posted by Marty Fitzhenry: Thank You Marty, good stuff.
The LEDS are by a company called Linrose. My local supply house is U Do it Electronics in Needham, Mass. I choose to use those components as I do with switches. I try to buy quality. For pennies more it is worth doing so. I like to do a job one time and move to the next job. Linrose is in New York. I powered the system with 12 volts DC and dropped them down with 680 ohm 1/2 watt resistors. They have been on the layout for almost 30 years and I have not lost one LED or one resistor. What I liked was the LED would snap in the hole on the signal head.
