Good Morning,
I am running a bi-level layout with a two main lines on the main level and one on the top as well as a switching line. On the main level, the inside line is all basically 8" straights because of the amount of uncouple/unload tracks necessary. This makes for a line that is not as straight as the outside line. Do you guys have any tips for making these straight track sections a bit straighter? Thank you for your time.
-Bob
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Have you tried a long metal straight-edge? I'm pretty sure Home Depot and the like sell those long 36" (or maybe even longer) aluminum Carpenter's straight-edges.
I would look at purchasing some rigid straight pieces of track as well. Tubular, Atlas, and gargraves come in longer lengths and will help in keeping things straight.
Laid out the route with stakes (perhaps pins) and string just like on a construction project.
Have you tried a long metal straight-edge? I'm pretty sure Home Depot and the like sell those long 36" (or maybe even longer) aluminum Carpenter's straight-edges.
A 4 foot level works as well.
I second Bill, if it is a long stretch, use a nail or pin at each end and pull a string tight between the two. Then line up the track against the string.
Bob, I have used the 4 foot aluminum rulers (I have 2 of them and they go for $7-8 each at HD or Lowes) for shorter runs and the string and pin method for longer runs. I also tried using a laser level that my son gave me (he had 2 of them and offered one up), but I found myself blocking the beam a lot when I was using it and went back to the basic string and pin method.
All good advice. I did mine with a metal straight edge.
Harbor Freight has a very reasonable Laser Level. $29.
My Layout was 50' long. I used a "LASER"
My Layout was 50' long. I used a "LASER"
Cool Fred. I'll talk to you more about that at the club. See you this weekend!
I used a 4' aluminum straight edge with a chalk line. Put against the rails, all ties are not equal.
Have you tried a long metal straight-edge? I'm pretty sure Home Depot and the like sell those long 36" (or maybe even longer) aluminum Carpenter's straight-edges.
The one I bought is 8' long...
I agree with Tom Tee--cosmetic curves are better visually for model train layouts, (albeit not prototypical for most parts of the country) than long tangents. On my last layout I used 4' steel edge.
O54 and smaller curves.
I used a 6 foot long straight edge and a laser level. The laser is the way to go if you have long straights.
Art
I've used the long metal ruler method and a laser and then drew a black line with a "Sharpie" pen to follow when I laid the cork and the track.
.....
Dennis
O54 and smaller curves.
Beautiful track work, Mike!
PS; This from an old school flooring contractor, Nothing beats a snapped chalk line for an absolute straight line from point A to point B. I find snapping a chalk line in conjunction with a taped in place straight edge to give a true tangent.
I own several lasers and like them for waterlines. IMO they are a tad touchy for horizontal surfaces. When setting tile or track you need an absolute line firmly set in place. Especially for laying out a large multiple track yard.
Some angle iron of various lengths, especially if you have long straight tracks.
I have straights 24 feet long, and I used a laser light on the 3rd rail to keep them straight.
I use a long steel straight edge for short runs and a chalk line for longer ones. Either one works well
Have you tried a long metal straight-edge? I'm pretty sure Home Depot and the like sell those long 36" (or maybe even longer) aluminum Carpenter's straight-edges.
I use heavy gauge metal strap that comes in 6' lengths. It has pre-drilled holes, and can double as a compass for doing curves.
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