Tips on cutting track- UPDATE

I've always used a hacksaw with a blade made for metal, 22 TPI. Hand file for the burrs too. I find a dremal cuts to much of a slant due to short cutting wheel. Have eye protection on if you do. Nick T

Thanks Nick

Gregf

Hacksaw, only with 32 teeth per inch. More teeth per inch is better for thinner material like track. Use a good sharp blade too. I don't use my Dremel to often so I will defer to others on that part.

I would use the variable speed at about half speed.  I strongly recommend the use of the new Dremel easy-lock cutting wheel.  It's larwer diameter than the older reinforced cutting wheel, and lasts longer.  The larger diameter means less of a slant on the cut.  If you want to eliminate any slant, cut twice, first to a bout 1/4" from where you want the cut, and then cut the remainder on the edge of a workbench.

I strongly recommend that you do not use the smaller non-reinforced wheels.  They're cheaper, but break easily,

I'll second what RJR said

clem

I never liked using a hack saw to cut track. They tend to bind and leave pits at the end of your cut. True this can be avoided with slow and skilled handling but still troublesome at best.  

I would say get a wheel cutting device like a Dremil tool. Of course you need a wheel that is made for metal, most tools will come with a selection of cutting wheels for wood, plastics and metal.

The reason for this is that this device provides the most control with cleaner and faster cuts.

Also invest in a flexible extension  line that screws into the Dremil head and provides even more control and comfort. I would say off the top of my head it would be about a hundred dollar investment for the kit. But they can be used for a million things and will prove to be worth every penny.

Last but not least a pair of safety glasses, also worth their weight in gold.

Dremil is the way to go, if you want a nice clean cut. Also like stated above you can use it on so many other projects on your layout!

I use my bandsaw with a fine tooth metal blade. Straight cuts and even across.

A chopsaw will work too but have to file the ends.  One time I made a jig with three slots to hold the track while cutting. 

I agree with RJR. At first I was using the small cutting wheels and having to cut at an angle. But going to the larger cutting wheels that is not the case now. I use to cut my track with a hack saw but the Dremel makes it so much easier and faster..............Paul

With both recommendations above you should still file the ends smooth.

Rod Miller

I have the Dremel too  with the right angle attachment. Having just completed my 3rd club layout build I've cut approx 50 boxes of gargraves track. First rule is to toss the dremel cutting wheels and opt for the larger wheels and mandrils. Agree with everyone else in that use a file to remove the burrs they will destroy traction tires

Enjoy your railroad

Steve

I basically did what WB47 did. I made a jig to hold the track, and cut the jig wide enough to fit snug in a wood miter box. Used a hack saw, and either way, you will have to use a file to dress burrs. I even made a reamer to clean out the insides of the track. 

Thanks to everyone for all the information.

Greg

I use a Harbor Freight   6" metal cutting chop saw ....  cuts fast ...cuts square ... clean up cuts with Dremel with a fine stone.

About  $ 45 ..  worth it if cutting a lot of track.

Greg - If using a hacksaw, use a 32 tooth blade installed BACKWARDS.  The blade will still cut and not grab the thin metal of the rail.  Use a small vise to hold one rail at a time if you have a vise.  Still, Dremel is the best way using a the large cut-off disc.

Two other tips:

1. Wear eye protection.  Chips fly.

2. I use a shop vac, with the crevice nozzle clamped to the workbench so that sawdust from the cut is sucked into it.  The dust moves to the left of the tool, when cutting from the top of the track and looking from the handle side.  You don't want this sawdust getting on the layout, or in your fingers or elsewhere.

I cut to approximate length using a hacksaw, then use a belt sander to straighten and de-burr the cut end. If you don't have a belt sander, the little Dremel sanding drums cut fast and with a very little practice you can get a very straight edge.

Greg,

A little late to the party, but I built a jig out of scrap wood...set it up to be used with a hack saw (the more teeth, the finer the cut) and like a mitre saw. The 2 side rails are just wide enough to accomodate the width of the ties and keeps the track from shifting from side to side. The filler board is the same width as the ties and sits down on top of the track for additional stabilty while sawing. You can clamp it or put downward pressure while cutting. The only downside is that you can only cut straight track. This is easy to make and has worked well for me.

See attached photos:

I use a variety of rotary tools depending on job.  No matter which tool I use I only use a 90 degree end or a flex shaft.

A direct mount cutting disk mounted directly on the tool is only good for a follow up cut when trimming back an excess rough cut while holding the piece of track over the edge of a work surface.

The smaller fragile thin disk is best when cutting close in gaps around 2r frogs with a flex or 90 degree end.  The quick change disk leaves an oversize gap IMO.

Here is a simple Track Cutting Jig I made 40 years ago.  It worked great and saved lots of time and was the best hour I spent making my layout.  it is similar to PDDM' s but simpler and easier to make and it works for straight and curved track as the track groove is wide enough and the jig is narrow enough for curves.

It is made of a block of 3/4 inch pine wood glued to a piece of 1/2 inch plywood.

I mount is in a vise (a 10" x 6" wood vise is shown but a metal vise will work too), hold the track in by hand and cut with a fine tooth hack saw.

This Track Cutting Jig has cut hundreds pieces of 027 track.  The grooves keep all three rails from moving to allow a straight cut.

Charlie

After cuts of Atlas track, I true the ends with the disk sander.

Gargraves Track.

I have  a small 6" chop saw with a cutting disc from Harbor freight. Under $50 dollars. 

http://t.harborfreight.com/6-i...t-off-saw-61204.html

If you have the Dremel hand wand, you can cut track straight across with the fiber reinforced cutoff wheel, quick and easy.

I use a hacksaw to cut my track when I need to. Have tried the dremel tool but it jumps around on me and won't cut on the proper angle. To remove the small burrs I use a dremel with a sanding bit that is a hard type of stone. 

I am not going to spend big bucks just to cut some track, so a chop saw or anything else is out of the question for me. Have looked at some of the dremel tool attachments and they get a bit expensive.

Lee Fritz

Dremel with Gyros cutoff wheels:

http://www.gyrostools.com/Cut-...forced/c5/index.html

Finish up any burrs with a needle file. Cut and bent my whole layout full of Gargraves Phantom line with this setup.

Don't bother with the Dremel brand cutoff wheels, they're pretty cheesy compared to Gyros.

Gentlemen,

    Using FasTrack I cut custom close out pieces in a completely different manner, although the Dremel Tool with the fiber reinforced wheel, still works decently, I use the Rockwell X2 Portable Table Saw because you can cut any angle at any length perfectly with his tool.  It produces exacting cuts without all the extra de-buring work.  

PCRR/Dave

The odd sized 5 1/2" Curve FasTrack piece, coupling the siding to the FTCC switch, just to the side of the Legacy Shay Engine, was made with the Portable X2 Saw, this custom made track piece actually curves in two opposite directions, over a short distance joining the siding with the FTCC Switch.  The FasTrack piece looks to be factory made, far from it however.

Anybody try the Dremel Ultra Saw? I prefer a tool that I can use insitu. All my Atlas flex track will be curved at one end and straight on the other. I'll bend and fasten the curved end first. With the Ultra Saw, I envision clamping a block of wood over the straight track and use the wood as a guide for the saw. I should get a perfectly square cut.

My method of track cutting.  Not me in the photo, but a worker on a construction site I was the architect for.  They use a compound miter saw to cut steel studs.  Works great for track!

GG1 4877 posted:

My method of track cutting.  Not me in the photo, but a worker on a construction site I was the architect for.  They use a compound miter saw to cut steel studs.  Works great for track!

The noise is every bit as bad as it looks.   A full day of cutting metal studs, is really rough on the ears.  Safety meeting of the day, ear and eye protection are a must.   The blade is a composite cutting disk, like the Dremel cut off blade, only much larger.   A 12" cut-off disk/blade is usually gone in a day of steady cutting.    Commonly called chop saws. 

With the standard 1 1/2" cut-off blade.

I have both of those Tom, I typically use the flexible shaft attachment, I like the way it handles a bit better than the 90 degree head.

I've been using a small high-speed chop saw with good results.

GG1 4877,

    You are my kind layout builder man, always bring enough tool and enough power to get the job done!

PCRR/Dave

Hahahaha!!  I actually learned this from one my train mentors who built modules.  In all seriousness, it is a very clean and effective way to cut track.  Yes, I like watch the sparks fly and proper safety is always important, but using a metal blade on a chop saw is just fast and accurate.

The same technique also applies to cutting the floating pilots off of 3R locomotives ......

When using a hacksaw, I apply 3-in-1 oil as I cut tubular track.  This helps minimize the binding, you get a smoother edge, and also does not wear down the teeth so fast.   Same principle machine shops use when cutting metal.

For a dremel tool, a flex shaft and a 2" fiberglass reinforced cut off wheel,  from Amazon.com.   The dremel 1.5" discs are too small for me to get a square cut.

CAUTION

John, In the past couple of months two very experienced craftsman experienced severe injury with the flex shaft.  Perhaps thirty years combines experience between them.  I use the flex  extensively but find using the 90 degree head with a palm motor a tad more controllable (safe).  of course what makes the flex shaft more touchy is that most of us use the larger hanging motor  which can have a whole more available flesh eating  torque in it. 

IME,accidents can happen more at less than top speeds.  At slow speed the bit can grab and jump more easily.

I did hear about one injury, that's good to know.  I wonder what they're doing that lets it get away from them?  I use the Dremel tool with the flex shaft, I don't own a dedicated hanging tool..  The Dremel 4000 is fairly powerful, and it would  likely do some damage if it got away from you.  It's fairly large as well, sometimes a bit cumbersome.  Many times I find myself using the 8220 battery model, convenient with no cord.