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I have a K-line tmcc scale Hudson #5343s. Whenever it first starts out it runs backward and the tender light is off. I change direction and she runs forward but tender light is now illuminated. Only other issue, lost electrocoupler. Coil ok and bench test will fire coupler open. When I check at board no power or ground volt change when commanded to open coupler. Any and all comments please

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Have you owned this from new? If not someone may have installed K-Line cruise. In any case reversing motor leads should fix the starting in reverse and tender light issue. Coupler problem may be the connector is in the wrong receptical or the triac in the radio board needs to be replaced. If you can borrow an R2LC from another engine it may help pinpoint the problem.

Pete

John mentioned: if the unit was used in a TMCC consist, it will remember the last programming.   Assign the Engine to TR0, which removes all consist programming.   See the TMCC complete guide to command control for additional information.   Click on the underlined phrase to link.  Consist programming also effects coupler(s) and lights.    I could be wrong and often.     Mike CT. 

Last edited by Mike CT

Well I reversed the motor leads and lo and behold it now starts in forward. But to my amazement the tender light straightened out! I wanna know why,how and what reversing the leads has anything to do with that light function. It's definitely not the cherry switch because just a direction command will cycle the light. Intriguing....Still no coupler and what/where is the TRIAC? Also any thoughts on my f3 delema? Thank you all for your assistance and concern 

 

 

 

Before you start swapping motor leads, do the direction light agree with the direction it's going or they out of sync?  How about the electrocouplers, does the REAR button on the remote really operate the rear coupler?

Yeah, the lights do go on in the proper direction. Also, I have a conventional setup, and this locomotive had thumbtack style couplers, so only operating track can open the couplers.

Well, it's pretty easy.  This vertical board in the back is the motor driver board, and between the ears of the heatsink there's a 4-pin black plug.  Two of those wires are the motor wires, and two are the track power.  The two on the bottom of the connector, closest to the chassis, are the motor leads.  Since you need a special tool to take those pins out, I'd probably just cut the wires at a convenient place, and splice them with a piece of heatshrink over the splice.  Please DON'T use black electrical tape!

You can also swap the leads on each of the motors, it's just twice as many connections to do.

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Last edited by gunrunnerjohn

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