toggle switches

Well, the primary concern is the current rating of the switch.  For track blocks, I'd be looking for toggle switches with a 10A or better rating, that's usually the maximum power for most blocks.  All you need is a SPST switch for track blocks.

I am using atlas switches... I will have to look at the manual for the current rating for the switch.

If it is a larger,complicated layout you may want to consider using relays where very light duty switches can be used,described here

 

http://www.jcstudiosinc.com/Bl...=635&categoryId=

 

Dale H

Check out the video on my YouTube channel I did for my control panel. I used mini toggles for blocks and they work just fine. Spst for blocks and dpdt for turnout controls. The toggles are rated at 6amps, but its plenty for block control. Most likely you would never draw 10 amps from a single block anyway. Our blocks are mostly sidings and engine tracks.

Can you post me the link? Thanks!

Its in a separate thread I posted right here in the electrical forum called CONTROL PANEL VIDEO.... scroll through to the next page and you'll see the threadthread

I purchased the toggle switches. However I do not know how to wire the dpdt switches for the turnouts. I am using Atlas switches if this helps. Does anyone have a wiring diagram I can go by?

You need center off toggle switches unless you're adding a capacitive discharge circuit.

I really don't know what that is.  I guess I am stuck with 20 of these switches.

For straight wiring of Atlas switches, you need at a minimum a SPDT return-to-center-off switch.  That means that it has a common terminal and a switched contact for either direction, but when you release the handle, it will return to the center with no connection to either side.

 

If you have just a SPDT or DPDT switch, you'll leave the coil energized, and in about 20 seconds, you'll have smoke!

I was going by what LAIDOFFSICK told me in the prior post. He wired them in his video but its hard for me to follow how its done.

You were previously talking about track power blocks, but switch control is another animal altogether.

Throwing Atlas switch machines with a toggle is shown here

 

www.jcstudiosinc.com/BlogShowT...=411&categoryId=

 

Dale H

Dale, you have some great stuff, but if you could improve the contrast of the pictures, it would help immensely.  It's very difficult to read what you have many times.  Let me give you an example.

 

Here's the original.

 

 

Photo Enhanced

 

Hi John

 

If you click on the photo it enlarges and gets a bit better. The JC site only allows photos of a certain size. I do not have schematic software. Some of these things were in my notebook before I had a computer. My later posts and pictures are a bit better.

 

Dale H

So what kind of capacitors do I need? I will purchase them on eBay.

Here they are at a good price.

 

ebay 4700uf 50V Electrolytic Cap

 

ebay 2200uf 50V Electrolytic Cap

 

If you want them fast, here they are at Digikey.

 

2200uf 50V Electrolytic Cap

 

4700uf 50V Electrolytic Cap

 

John. Does it matter if I buy the 2200 or 4700? I really appreciate your help b

even 1000 uf flip most machines. 2200 uf will definitely flip one. 4700 will flip 2 in tandem.

 

Dale H

I see Dale beat me to it.

I'm using SPDT center off mom. toggles with Atlas O switch machines. They work fine and are simple to wire but is there any way they can connect to bipolar LEDs at the panel to show switch positions?

Not without some additional circuitry.  It's simple, but takes additional wiring.

I used 2 different types of toggles, dpdt for control of the Tortoise Switch machines, and spst toggles for track blocks. In your original post, you did not state what type of turnout control you were using.

Any help would be appreciated.

A simple method is with the Atlas Snap Relay M200.  This just wires in parallel with the switch and gives you a set of DPDT contacts that can control most anything, including lights.

 

 

 

 

 

 

You can also do it electronically, but I'd use a DPDT switch and the spare set of contacts to control the lighting.

 

 

Another latching relay option are these I found on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Pan...;hash=item5d3d95a80f

I will be using DPDT center off switches. I run conventional so mine will be done in CAB style. I bought a bag of DPT with screw terminals cheap on that auction place. Smae manufacture as the costly ones I bought local.

Should I buy spdt switches to control my atlas switches? Instead of buying additional electronics?

This thread is getting confusing!  We have at least three people all talking about controlling switches, indicators, etc.  Who's on first?

Thanks for the suggestion. I hadn't thought of that.

Well I started the thread lol. I have these DPDT switches and I cannot use them unless I buy capassators. So instead of going that route my other route is buying different switches. What mini toggle switches should i purchase to control my atlas switches without having to go nuts in the process?

This is what you need: http://www.allelectronics.com/...LE-SWITCH-20A/1.html

 

Way more robust than what you need for switches but they will work.

You can search other sources. Key words are momentary, center-off, or (ON)-OFF-(ON). Not ON-OFF-ON or (ON)-OFF-ON.

Dale, the Atlas Snap Switch is just to get lighting working, I agree with you about the CD circuits, that's the way to go for the switch activation.

1200 uf?

 

It's just a larger charge to insure reliable switching, and also if two switch commands come real close together, you should have enough energy to do both without waiting for the charge.

(Dale H mentioned the 2200uf.) This toggle question will continue to come up until some knowledgeable person produces a plug-and-play kit with simple instructions for us electronics "dummies!"

1000uf will work for a single Atlas switch that is free of binding. In a non perfect world,2200 uf can be used to insure the switch throws properly.  Sometimes 2 switches need to be thrown in tandem. In that case 2200 or 4700 is appropriate. Try on your layout to see which works best. 1000 may work,if not use 2200.

 

Dale H

Thanks, Dale.

Just to add,if you try the 1000 uf capacitor and it does not throw the machine(s) reliably, you can hook a second 1000 uf capacitor to it in parallel (in proper polarity). That will double the value.

 

Also remember that the input voltage is increased by 41% so 12VDC pulsed becomes 17 volts stored in the capacitor. Do not use more voltage than necessary to throw the machine.

 

Dale H

 

 

I think I'd just go with the 2200uf to start.  You'll insure reliable switching, and dispense with any marginal operation.

What does a bridge rectifier look like. the Shack didn't know.