Time again to beat the dead horse. I am about to begin a semi-permanent layout and ready to spring for track. I have mountains of vintage O and O27 tubular track that is in fantastic shape. I initially started to think Gargraves, Ross, or Scaletrax, but why not use the O track I have and use additional ties to make it more realistic? What do you experts think? Do adding ties to tubular track work for realism or not?
Thanks
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It depends on what look your trying to present. Tubular track is still the best for electrical continuity and Magna-traction if you have those engines. Gargrave is my choice for a more realistic appearance.
Jims first sentence says it all. Without knowing what look you are going for its hard to tell.
Maybe its not a look, but rather a durability or some other feature that is more important. All the track systems excel at something. Give us a bit more information and we can guide you in the right direction.
Charlie
Get what look you like. I started with 0-27 now I have Fasttrack. Not gonna change.
Ideally, I am looking for better look than the three rail to the prototype. I know Atlas and Scaletrax is better there, but since I have so much O laying around, I was trying to be frugal (cheap). Tubular is bullet proof, but as appearance go, does adding the ties look ok or would just going gargraves the better route?
Being frugal (cheap) by nature you statement "I have mountains of" speaks to me. I would have already made up my mind.
What kind of equipment do you intend to run on your track? Scale? Traditional? Tinplate?
The way I see it, you want your track and your rolling stock to be in the same 'neighborhood' as far as realism goes. I wouldn't want to run scale-detailed trains on tubular track with extra ties added. The track would be very unrealistic, and would detract from the look of the trains. On the other hand, I don't much like the look of tinplate on a highly-realistic system like Atlas. The too-realistic track messes with the "suspension of disbelief" that your imagination does when you look at that beautiful, shiny, enameled toy, and tell yourself it's a train. At least it does for me.
I run traditional (Postwar and derivatives) on Gargraves/Ross. I intend to weather and detail the track eventually, hoping to find that sweet spot where the realism of the track improves the appearance of the train--but where the track is still 'unrealistic' enough that the train does not look out of place sitting on it. If I wanted to really own the "toy-ness" of traditional equipment, I might stick with tubular, maybe with some extra ties. But I prefer to emphasize what is realistic in the equipment.
Anyway, that might give you some ideas. You might also look thru some back issues of OGR or CTT, and see what kind of track people have used, and what kind of trains they run on it, and whether it looks "right" to you.
For what it's worth! 
Last year I was in between layouts. Like you, I had a pile of tubular O gauge track & 18 switches. After seeing Atlas on another layout, I wanted to use Atlas. I figured that I would end up spending $2k or more. In March 2015, I went out to order what I needed. Surprise! I could only get less than half what I needed......."maybe it'll be on the next container from China?" Instead of piecemeal shopping from suppliers all over the country, I stayed with tubular O. I like Gargraves & Ross. I may use that in the future. Oh by the way, the $2k got spent on Engines, Rolling Stock, Woodland Scenics Buildings & Accessories. I may search out the material for ties and insert between the metal Lionel ties, not sure though on that look either.
I used tubular track on my layout because I had so much and I ballasted and added ties to it and also run scale equipment on it with 096 curves and Ross switches.
mikey posted:I used tubular track on my layout because I had so much and I ballasted and added ties to it and also run scale equipment on it with 096 curves and Ross switches.
Looks great. Where did you get the ties? Different dimensions than the Ross/ Gargraves?
Gargraves track and Ross Custom switches. No supply issues. No service issues. In fact, if you damage a Ross switch just return it to Ross and it will be fixed for free and the return shipping paid. For switch machines use Tortoise for the best, DZ1000's for fastest installation. No ugly Atlas switch machines to look. The tortoise is completely out of sight mounted below the table. Oh, by the way Gargraves, Ross and Circuitron (maker of the Tortoise) are all AMERICAN companies not from Asia. I have used all of the above (Gargraves, Ross and Tortoise ) since 1987. I couldn't praise them any higher.
I had wondered for a long time why my trains run as well as they did (do) even when I cannot reach the track to clean it at several places. I clean the track with a rag and alcohol or contact cleaner about every three to four months, but the track about which I was concerned had not been cleaned in over four years.
A few days ago, while videoing with a new car-mounted camera, I did not like how the track looked in those remote areas, which besides not having been cleaned, I had not ballasted. I got my ballasting supplies and equipment ready, climbed on top of the layout through a small hatch (carefully, as there are just a few structures where I needed to be) and proceeded to ballast these 30 feet of dual main track.
To my pleasant surprise, the ATLAS track was spotless!
In the past, I have made several attempts to clean the track through the hidden areas in the first level, but this was as challenging as cleaning the visible track in the too far to easily reach areas. After seeing the condition of the now newly ballasted track, I won't worry about cleaning the track again.
Alex
Since I have only early post war equipment, I am leaning toward Gargraves or the tubular. Mikey, that layout is amazing, thank you for the pictures. I am planning on purchasing some newer sound ladened steam. Really like both Lionel's and MTH's offerings.
It depends on what your final goal is going to be. My opinion is choice of track and switches should also depend on availability. Why have to wait for long periods of time to get track and switches to finish a layout. You mentioned you have tubular. You could stay with that buying tubular track from Menards in larger diameter curves and to be able to run larger engines you could opt to buy Ross tinplate switches. I use gar graves/ Ross combination. Back in the fifties, a long time ago, my father built my layout using tubular track. But what he did was cut wood on a band saw for ties matching the size of ties already on the track and coloring the wood and it made track look much better. Bottom line is it is your choice as to what you want to use. If I was doing that I would go with something I could get right away if I needed more............................Paul
Here's another thing to consider. If you want to use insulated control rails, choose a track with wood or plastic ties. Best bang for the buck is GarGraves flex at around $6.25 for 3' sections in case lots.
The ties that I used on my track are 1/4x1/4 square stock wood in 36 inch lengths cut to 2 3/8 long and stained,took a long time but the result was good.
Mikey
RichC,
Personally, I use Gargraves track and Ross switches.
However, since you mentioned you have "mountains" of O gauge track in fantastic shape, I would give serious consideration to re-using that track for your new layout. That could be affected by your specific goals for your new layout - not sure what they are.
O gauge tubular always worked well for me until I did a major expansion and had to but a lot of new track. Just think of how many other items you can buy with the money you'll save by re-using what you have.
You want realistic track . . . or you don't.
Adding ties to tubular is like "putting lipstick on a pig."
I wanted realistic track. I started with Atlas but got completely frustrated with it being "unobtainium."
I kept the Atlas I have but switched to Ross for new track. I like Ross well enough. I like it being readily available. I even like it being made in the USA although I am not an American.
I think Atlas looks a hair better and is a higher "fit and finish" product. But, I just could not get it last year. The Atlas/Ross mix looks fine to me but beware these thing . . .
http://www.trainworld.com/manu...-transition-joiners/
I found them next to useless as they break so easily. I use the regular Atlas joiners to interconnect the two brands of track instead. This means using a box cutter to ever so slightly trim a Ross tie so the connector can fit snugly. Works fine.
IMO, tubular is for tinplate . . . period!
I too am suffering the same dilemma and have not made a commitment to either Gargraves flex track or to stay with my trusty tube track that I have bunches of. I like the idea of being able to choose any radius curve I want and I also like the idea being able to move whole sections of track while I build the layout. I will be watching this thread, thanks for posting it.
I have been using tubular track for many years, I used to add Moondog ties to my track, but now use 3R Plastic ties. Went to Gargraves switches in the 1990's when the newer Lionel switches were biting the dust on me. Currently I am using Lionel tubular track with Gargraves track and Ross switches.
I tried Fastrack but didn't like it and traded it off at a train show for an MTH engine.
Lee Fritz
I first started building my own layouts back in 1974 and have constructed many since then. The only track I knew back then was the old Lionel tubular track. I think Gargraves may have been available back then but I'm not sure. I purchased an awful lot of tubular back in the 70s because I knew I was going to expand over the years. I think I may have cornered the market on the stuff. Anyway, like you I had so much of it I just couldn't justify going to one of the newer track systems. I have spent a good deal of enjoyable time detailing my tubular by hard ballasting and weathering it. Years ago I bought Moondog black rubber ties for the track and along with the ballast and weathering I think the track looks great. My layout is 8x20 with 072 curves. Just to throw another monkey wrench into the works there is plenty of Lionel Super O track out there and it is very realistic looking even without a pre-fabricated roadbed.
OKHIKER posted:I think Gargraves may have been available back then but I'm not sure...
Yes, since the 40's.
You all know that if there were 100 kinds of track, there would be 200 different answers.
Thank you everyone for your kind responses
RichC,
Good luck on your decision. If it was me I would go with the tubular, but again, that is just me...I like the nostalgia, the reliability and the cheapness.
Tom
To me it's a no-brainer: Gargraves Flex Track and Ross Switches on Midwest cork roadbed.
Dennis
Ross & Gargraves; dependable, quality, readily available, decades of reliability, USA made, reasonably priced, nice people to deal with.
My PRR Panhandle uses GarGraves track with some Curtis HiRail and Ross sectional curves. I have 11 Curtis HiRail switches and 6 Ross switches. Curtis HiRail was a competitor of Ross; the switches are nearly identical and are true gems. Frank Curtis retired in 2007. Roadbed is 3/8" Vinylbed for mainline and 1/4" for yards. The advantages of GarGraves track and Ross switches:
About 4 years ago I designed a roughly 16' x 23' layout for a friend. I am helping him build it (as he is helping me finish the Panhandle). He chose Atlas track on Midwest Cork roadbed. I have to say that Atlas makes a very nice track system as well. Their advantages over GarGraves:
Some disadvantages are cost (Atlas track is more costly but seems to be worth it) and as mentioned above, availability. Still it is an enticing option and I am giving it some thought for the next incarnation of the Panhandle. I think the Midwest cork is a better choice than Vinylbed, particularly in its "new" formulation.
Personally, I am not a fan of tubular track unless it is around the Christmas tree. Even then, I have replaced that loop with Lionel Fastrack.
Best,
George
I am still thinking about what track system I want to use on my new layout, Gargraves Flex or good old tube track. I had 3R Plastics rubber ties under tube track on my old layout. I was having trouble finding them for the new layout. Turns out after contacting them that they only sell them on Amazon now at $58.00 for 250. The price has gone way up. $0.23 per tie! I like the product but with the price of track coming down I would be spending more on ties than on the track using 4 to 6 per track section. Just adding to the discussion.
Orrin
I guess I got lucky as I have all the ties I need for use with O gauge tubular track. I have the older Moondog ties and 3R Plastic ties, the ties by 3R Plastic look better then Moondog but Moondog was the first company I knew of that offered ties for tubular track.
I started out with O gauge tubular track in the 1960's and will continue with O gauge tubular track. It's more reliable and easier to fit into my layout.
Lee Fritz
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