Track Choices

Lots of choices, Don....all good ones, too......really hard to go wrong with any......

My layout, dismantled in 03 when I moved was all tinplate. It worked great.

When I rebuilt in the new house in 11, I wanted a more realistic layout, so I went all Atlas, with RossBed.

If I were to do it again, I would do all Ross or Gargraves with Ross switches.......or, since I like the idea of command control switches...all Fastrack (I have seen Fastrack layouts ballasted to the point where they are pretty realistic.

Peter

Don,

My comment will be strictly for the track I use, since returning to this hobby in the mid 1990's I have used Gargrave tin plate Phantom rail, most of the competitive track today did not exist. I liked this track because of the wood ties, flexability, American made, reasonably priced and is readably available. For switches I have used Gargrave and Ross, another consideration although Ross Custom Switches and Gargrave are seperate companies. the end of track pin connections are the same, no special connectors just the standard Gargrave pins, if there is a slight difference in elevation from bottom of tie to top of rail of the Gragrave track and Ross Switches I have not noticed it, also for soldering track feeder wires to the Gargrave tin plate rails, the wood ties can be moved, no melting of plastic, and the outside rails solder easily, the black finish on the web of the rail where the track feeder is to be solder must be burnished to silver metal finish then soldered. Also I would recommend a rotary drill such as a Dremel, I have used it entensively for square track ends on curve formed track, drilling the wood ties for screwed attachment to the base train board and for attaching Tortouse switch machines to the underside of the train board and on non-related house/automotive projects.. 

John

I've used many different track - FastTrack, Realtrax, Tubular, Atlas, etc. 

I want to like FastTrack but something about it I've never liked. The base is too wide, it is so loud, etc. You can't really fit two loops on a 4x8. Realtrax has it's own issues with alignment and conductivity. 

I've generally stuck to old school tubular track. Never had an issue, the price is right and it is easy to work with. If/when tubular ever becomes difficult to find, I'll go to Gargraves. Actually, I'm thinking about going GG on the next layout, wherever and whenever that may be. 

Ross switches are the way to go. 

Current Layout: 

Old Layout:

Brief experimentation with Atlas track in between the above layouts. 

For price and simplicity, tubular is a good choice. Our club has a small modular layout that uses tubular track donated by Peter. It is "naturally weathered" but the engines do not seem to care. We have Atlas track on the big modular layout. It looks more realistic, but it needs to be cleaned a lot.

Gilly@N&W posted:

For price and simplicity, tubular is a good choice. Our club has a small modular layout that uses tubular track donated by Peter. It is "naturally weathered" but the engines do not seem to care. We have Atlas track on the big modular layout. It looks more realistic, but it needs to be cleaned a lot.

Here's a picture of the small portable layout that Tom mentioned.

Peter

On the PRR Panhandle, we started out with GarGraves and Curtis HiRail track.  The first 15 switches, including a gem of a double cross-over, were Curtis.  Unfortunately, Curtis went out of business around 2006-7.  From that point on, I've used Ross switches and sectional track.  The Ross gear is excellent.  Vinylbed (3/8" for mainline, 1/4" for yards) is the roadbed I use. 

Three years ago, I designed a layout for a friend.  He went forward with AtlasO track and is very pleased with it (we are still building it).  I must say that I am intrigued by the heavy duty (solid) tracking aspects of the product, although it is more expensive.  I am thinking about using it in the next layout.  It certainly looks terrific.

With track, I think it's all about the foundation.  If the sub-roadbed (plywood) is solid and well supported, then the type of track matters less.  GarGraves, if placed on a good foundation, runs very nicely.  AtlasO, same deal. 

George

The best way to explore track is to go to a good train shop that has at least 6 or 7 brands. Holding and seeing them in person makes a difference to me - catalog and internet pictures don't do them justice. It comes down to tubular (4 or five choices) and solid rail (2-3 choices); whether you want to make custom curves or go with fixed diameter sections; and more scale or traditional look; and factor in whether you want built-in plastic roadbed (easiest) or go with cork, etc., and separately applied ballast (hardest but best looking); quiet vs. loud, plastic vs. wood vs. metal ties, how switches and crossovers work, etc. 

Track work is the foundation of model railroading - and 3-rail is model railroading despite what the critics say  - the track you choose and the way you install it will be the single greatest factor in how your trains look and run.

I will add my $.02.  I've built layouts with Lionel tubular, FasTrack and Gargraves/Ross.  For simple designs, FasTrack is the easiest.  The 2 downsides of FasTrack are: it is noisier than most other types of track and it is difficult to make custom lengths of track.  

Gargraves/Ross has the greatest flexibility for design, but it is also the most difficult to work with.  As others have pointed out requires a good base but it also requires attention to detail when installing for proper alignment.  Gargraves looks the best of the 3 and when installed correctly runs well.

I would say tubular is somewhere in the middle.  It's tried and true but it doesn't look as good as the others.

My dealer's layout is built with Atlas.  The layout is used nearly everyday and is 10 years old or so and works perfectly.  The Atlas solid rails make it fairly quiet and Atlas's track system seems to make alignment easier than Gargraves.  I've personally stayed away from Atlas as I have quite a few Lionel engines with Magnatraction which is ineffective on all non ferrous rails.

There is some good advise in this thread.  I would suggest use what you have for your first layout.  You will find out what you don't like about tubular and that may help you figure out what you want to do in the future.  Besides, because you have tubular, using it will get you running trains faster!

Tony

I have most of the various brands of track on my layout in different areas and era's when I have built or added sections. Preferred is the Gargraves and with a few modifications the switches will work but Ross turnouts are best. Atlas it OK but near humid areas have had some connection problems expensive but looks good but lots of joints with this shorter sections.

0-27 is fine for a smaller tighter layouts.

Fastrack it noisy have tried it for show set ups but does not stay together well gets dirtier faster and is really really noisy.

I use either carpet short pile, underlay, or sound deadening board.

Also have lots of K-Line super snap if you can find it great for show layouts and have some on the layout as well on my ceiling loops works great and stays well connected if you can still find it but the Gargraves is best for price and flexible design.

From reading several threads on track, this and others, it seems the best one is the one you decide to use.

To date my choice is Fastrack. Why? It is Brent proof and easy to work with and yes it come with a lot of noise.

Brent

DP,

   If you are considering staying with Conventional Tubular make your move now, and purchase as much of the K-Line (RMT) Track and Low voltage switches, as you can.  I used the original K-Line in the past transitioning into old Lionel Tubular, it worked great. The RMT WEB Sight will be open for another month only, after that Walter is fully retired.  

I now run 90% FasTrack, not cheap, however I can run all my different Trains for hours on end, the same way I did with my conventional tubular, including running all my Tin Plate Trains, and the Low Voltage Command Control Switches, operating from the Legacy Cab2, are almost bullet proof.  I am fully satisfied with my FasTrack.   If you choose to use it, the 1st 2 generations of FT are made perfectly.   DCS & TMCC/Legacy work perfectly with it.

PCRR/Dave

Dan, when I built my layout, I was like you...plenty of old O-31 tubular track, some as far back as the early 1950's. I am pretty much of a skinflint and could see no reason not using it. Of course, to build the layout, I had to buy quite a bit more. Most of what I bought was used (cheaper) and I had to clean it up a bit...no problem for a skinflint! I did want to "dress" it up a bit and although it is nowhere realistic, to me it is more pleasing to the eye. I painted the rail sides...black for the middle rail and a brown tint for the side rails. I also bought quarter inch wood window screening, painted it black and then cut it to lengths that matched the metal ties on the O-31. Those were spaced as even as possible between the metal ties. Once it was ballasted, it turned out as well as could be expected. Here are some pictures.

With that said, I had to leave that layout in Atlanta. I am now in the process of building a new layout and have been amassing Gargraves track. Starting from scratch with no track, I decided to go with Gargraves on many who have given it the thumbs up on the forum.

Rick

Another thing to keep in mind is that some manufacturers track requires more sections than others to form a complete circle at o54 and smaller diameter.    My point is that if Brand A costs $2.00 a section and Brand B costs $1.50 a section it could be less expensive with Brand A because you require less sections to complete your track plan.

Regards,

Greg

Thank you for all of your input.  When I did have my layout, over twenty-five years ago, I used tubular track and made ties from neoprene that was left over on a job I worked on.  It matched the Lionel O gauge black ties in color and all I had to do was run it through the table saw to make it the correct width.  I still have a bunch of those ties and another large piece of neoprene.  

Some of you mentioned cutting track to custom lengths.  Gargraves is simple to cut but Fastrack and  Atlas look  like they would be difficult as the ends are pre-machined.  

I'm probably going to stick with the tubular track.  Your opinions have helped me to make my choice.

Ranger Rick, that is really good looking tubular track. Great job.

I have used O gauge tubular and 027 track for years. Now I have added Gargraves track & switches to the mix, just need some adapter pins and to shim the O gauge to Gargraves track on the Gargraves side. I have an MTH steam engine that doesn't do well with Gargraves switches.

With 027 straights and Gargraves curves you can open up the curve radius and run a whole larger engine or passenger set through the larger curves. Just use the 027 adapter pins from Gargraves, Ross or Gargraves have the adapter pins. 

Just bought some Ross Custom switches and put a couple in place so far, no trains running yet as I just set-up again because of moving. Still in set-up mode, maybe another month or so, but I am also using K-Line Super Streets with Williams by Bachmann E Z Streets track.

I have tried Lionel's Fastrack and I don't like it because of costs(money, it's much more expensive) and track configuration issues, you can't cut it like tubular track.

Lee Fritz

I went with Atlas, I liked the looks of it, Solid rail, nickel-silver, quiet, flat top rails, and there is a good selection of curves and switches to choose from. After choosing my track, I bought a small oval of to to try out and I was sold from then on.

I recommend doing as others have suggested, got to a hobby shop and look at all the different track systems available today, make a choice and try it out. If you don't like it you can always sell it and go to your next favorite pick.

We really have a lot to choose from these days and I think they are all good systems. Each have their pros & cons, none are perfect. With help from folks here on the forum they can all be made to work reliably with a little fine tuning. Not all train equipment will work with all track, no matter what you choose some item sooner or later will have problems with it somewhere along the line (no pun intended).

Well, just looking at the track should say a lot about its desirability to you.

Does old-style tubular look OK to you? If so, I'd say use it - cheap, known, reliable, and so on. The best looking, out of the box, is MTH Scaletrax (not Realtrax), but I understand that it has attained Bigfoot status to a degree. Atlas is OK, but Scaletrax looks better, I'd say. FastTrack - I never know just what that product is trying to be. Seems well made; U-rails!

I use GG, Ross and Curtis - but it's all painted before it's laid - sprayed with flat camo brown. The chrome must go. Besides that, though, I prefer GG and Family for reliability, looks (it's pretty darn good, painted and ballasted), availability and price. So, I'd choose that type.

If I built another layout...I'd probably try to use MTH Scaletrax, but I imagine that availability issues would send me back to GG/Ross.

They all work, however. 

Over the years,I've sampled and evaluated just about every track system. I had Lionel O27 tubular and Super O as a child and when I got back into trains,I tried MTH Realtrax the Atlas O track but wasn't happy with either of those systems.Like many other forum members,I've settled on using time tested Gargraves and Ross track and switches on my new layout. I use Fastrack for temporary/holiday "carpet" central layouts. 

HI

Choosing the right track for your layout can be very frustrating.  I would go with rtr12 if I had to start over again. Buy one track candidate at a time try it out first then make a decision  and then move forward. I run a carpet layout and use Fasttrack. If you can get the 1st and 2nd generational Fasttrack you should be fine.  Anything else you will have the Fasttrack "walking apart" problem. It is very loud on bare wooden floors as well. I use moving blankets on the bare wooden floor bring the volume down and it works.  I am moving towards using Atlas track for my layout. I have use MTH track as well but for carpet layout for me it was a real pain with the track connections to put together and take apart. I did look at the Graves track system with Ross switches when I was at the Amherst show. Many consider this the gold standard in the track systems. For me this will not work on a carpet layout, but for a permanent layout I would give a second look and possibility try it out.  Good luck with your search for your perfect track. If you have any questions post here on the forum their a lot of great folks who will lend you a hand or answer any question you might have.

I use FasTrack on my 12x8 layout, it's simple and I think it looks great! I screwed it directly to the plywood and as a result can be noisy, but I don't mind hearing just the trains.

we'll be moving within the next year so I am already starting the new layout plan in my head.

12 years ago I played with Atlas track and switches a bit, but decided to go with Lionel tubular because I had accumulated so much of it on the cheap, and since then I have changed all my switches over to postwar 022 -better than modern, but still cause a lot of bounce and limits my choice of engines. 

For the next layout, depending on the size of space I have to work with, I'll be building by either;
- sticking with Lionel tubular, but investigating Ross tinplate switches (072).
- changing over to Gargraves, with Ross switches.

So far the only conclusion I've come up with is the switches. I currently have two loops, one with no switches, and one with a few switches, and the running gets boring.

When you decide and start to build, keep us updated...

Tim

I see some comments about Ross switches.  Since I am going tubular on my upcoming layout build, I thought I should stick with tubular O72 and O22 switches from Lionel.  But I have read some very positive comments about Ross.  

Anyone care to post a comment or two about one verses the other ?

DP posted:

I see some comments about Ross switches.  Since I am going tubular on my upcoming layout build, I thought I should stick with tubular O72 and O22 switches from Lionel.  But I have read some very positive comments about Ross.  

Anyone care to post a comment or two about one verses the other ?

If you use Lionel switches make sure they are post war 022's & 072 and not the modern switches that Lionel makes. The new switches by Lionel seem to be missing any quality. The 6-23010 & 6-23011(1990's issue) in O gauge are total horror stories waiting to happen, I used to have 5 of those switches, but replaced them for various reasons.

Why do you think that I went over to Gargraves switches about 10 years ago? Better quality switch then Lionel.

A comment or two about Gargraves switches; the 042 size switch has plastic rail one side after the frog assembly and bad for back to back curve placements, you will do better with the 054 switch back to back on curves as they have metal rails from the frog area. Check them out at www.gargraves.com 

Ross switches are constructed better then Gargraves and cost more but I feel the quality is better. Also Ross switches work directly with Gargraves track, no adapter pins needed unless you go with the Ross Tinplate track switches.

Lee Fritz

I prefer Gargraves  Flextrack and Ross Switches.  If your layout is sizeable so that your curves are not too tight, flextrack is not that hard to bend to whatever design of layout you want.  I even wrote a primer with photos to show how to bend GG Flextrack if you would like to have it.  Ross has any switch you would ever need too.  Ross uses Gargraves track for their products so they are a perfect mate with the GG track.  I also prefer cork roadbed.

Dennis

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Dennis posted:

I prefer Gargraves  Flextrack and Ross Switches.  If your layout is sizeable so that your curves are not too tight, flextrack is not that hard to bend to whatever design of layout you want.  I even wrote a primer with photos to show how to bend GG Flextrack if you would like to have it.  Ross has any switch you would ever need too.  Ross uses Gargraves track for their products so they are a perfect mate with the GG track.  I also prefer cork roadbed.

Dennis

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Dennis, could I get a copy of that primer?

Thanks,

George

George,  Wait a while.  It will come to you by email that is in your profile.

Dennis