what is best way to clean fastrack and how often do you clean your rails?
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There are a dozen different methods that all work well. I use 91% isopropyl alchohol on a paper towel wrapped around a wood block.
For stubborn buildup I use the abrasive eraser in Lionels track cleaning kit, or a "bright boy" abrasive block. then I go back over with the alchohol.
I only clean my track a couple of times a year, or when trains start acting up. Just beacuse the track doesn't look dirty, doesn't mean it isn't. There can still be a layer of dust/grime that accumulates over time. When this happens. The top of the rails are dull with a haze, as opposed to shiny.
Mutz,
CRC C-26 is the only cleaner I use. Safe on plastics, etc., and does excellent job.
I clean tracks occasionally but not (AR) about doing that. And...l reside in a humid climate.
thank you guys
For my Fastrack layout, I just use the original Lionel Track Cleaning Car and apply a few drops of Lionel Track Clean to the rotating circular sponge pad. I usually make 2 passes, changing out the circular sponge after the first pass. Fastrack is fairly easy to keep clean and my layout requires cleaning only twice a year, about every 6 months.
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You first have to understand the difference between polar and non-polar solvents.
You want a solvent with a low dielectric constant, such as those in the light green section in the chart above. Solvents in the other sections will clean track, however your track will stay cleaner longer if you use a non-polar solvent. In the past I always used isopropyl alcohol. I have since switched to mineral spirits.
just get a big rubber eraser
I use alcohol and do it by hand and let it dry a while. But I do have a vintage Lionel Track Cleaner that I use more often than I care to admit. It really doesn't do the worst. Plus you are still running trains! With it I use bulk generic window cleaner, the blue stuff. Soak the sponge a bit and let it go a few passes.
Mineral spirits work pretty good. I only have to clean track every 6 months or so using it. The rails stay much cleaner than when using alcohol as a cleaning solution.
For me it is CRC, excellent cleaner and easy to use. Be sure you purchase the "safe for plastics"
I use the Centerline Products car with the weighted roller. Soak the roller and let her rip. Walk ahead and keep the roller soaked. CDC evaporates quickly. I clean the track twice per year and I pull my rolling stock behind the engine. Lots of gop gets attached to your trucks and this cleans them sparkling clean. In addition I fold a paper towel and spray with CRC then wipe the tracks off.
https://www.centerline-products.com/
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@NJCJOE
Joe thanks for the chart. I never knew there was a varient in solvents. Glad to see CRC has a low number.
@NJCJOE posted:You first have to understand the difference between polar and non-polar solvents.
You want a solvent with a low dielectric constant, such as those in the light green section in the chart above. Solvents in the other sections will clean track, however your track will stay cleaner longer if you use a non-polar solvent. In the past I always used isopropyl alcohol. I have since switched to mineral spirits.
Hey Joe,
When you use Ethyl Alcohol, do you drink it or clean your track with it? OR BOTH ???
@Fredstrains posted:Hey Joe,
When you use Ethyl Alcohol, do you drink it or clean your track with it? OR BOTH ???
I don't waste that on the track......
Track cleaning has been gone over so many times, it is hard to believe there is yet another thread. But anyway, the whole article on non-polar cleaning (plus graphite) is well worth reading:
https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws...ne/index.html?page=9
For a good discussion that's on OGF, try this one. You will find links to a lot of interesting reading on the 2nd page:
https://ogrforum.com/...eaning-wheels?page=1
Seems like most of the common cleaning methods are not that good. Not to say they don't sort of work, but you can do a lot better. No matter what you use, always finish with mineral spirits and a little graphite on the rails. You won't be sorry.
Tom Stoltz
in Maine
@Tom Stoltz posted:Track cleaning has been gone over so many times, it is hard to believe there is yet another thread. But anyway, the whole article on non-polar cleaning (plus graphite) is well worth reading:
https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws...ne/index.html?page=9
For a good discussion that's on OGF, try this one. You will find links to a lot of interesting reading on the 2nd page:
https://ogrforum.com/...eaning-wheels?page=1
Seems like most of the common cleaning methods are not that good. Not to say they don't sort of work, but you can do a lot better. No matter what you use, always finish with mineral spirits and a little graphite on the rails. You won't be sorry.
Tom Stoltz
in Maine
This subject is so pervasive and important it really should be a sticky. 
John
@Tom Stoltz
Tom how do you apply the graphite to the track?
The article from Tom is a classic and very convincing.
@Tom Stoltz posted:Track cleaning has been gone over so many times, it is hard to believe there is yet another thread. But anyway, the whole article on non-polar cleaning (plus graphite) is well worth reading:
https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws...ne/index.html?page=9
Tom Stoltz
in Maine
@Wood posted:@Tom Stoltz
Tom how do you apply the graphite to the track?
It's best described in the article I have the link to above. But basically at a 45° angle on the inside of the rail. One quick swipe, if you see graphite, you've applied too much. I use a 4B graphite stick from an art store or Amazon.
Tom Stoltz
in Maine
Mr. Clean pad. Sometimes I use just water other times I spray some Windex on it.
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Thank you, Tom. I tried to read the article the first time but forgot to click the arrow to see the complete article.
I like the CRC, however I will try Mineral spirits and or DW-40. I will also buy some graphite sticks. The science makes sense and is written by a long time Model railroad specialist.
Next time this comes I will also post the article.
Wood
A RELATED QUESTION- NOT ABOUT CLEANERS OR DEVICES
I have a 8x10 Fasttrack layout in my basement. I run DCS and Legacy and find that absolutely clean track is essential for smooth and responsive operations. After extensive reading, I have settled on CRC (plastic safe) cleaner and use a disposable swiffer cloth / pad on a handle to reach all of my rails. Works great and after a cleaning the cloths are filled with oxidized grime, my rails are shiny, and everything works well. MY PROBLEM - I find that I need to repeat this process MONTHLY to keep my rails clean, regardless of how much I am running my engines. After each cleaning (monthly) the cloths are filled with black grime. MY QUESTION:
A) Is this normal, particularly for most of you reading this who probably have much larger layouts then me?
B) Is this a property of "cheap" Fasttrack, as opposed to Atlas or other brands of rail?
C) Should I call the EPA about the possibly hyper-oxidative air quality in my basement? (It is an unfinished basement in a "pre-war" house but I keep the humidity below 45% without any other air refinement)
D) Am I just imagining all of this?
[I am thinking A or B are the most likely responses]
Thanks.
@DrTrainDad posted:A RELATED QUESTION- NOT ABOUT CLEANERS OR DEVICES
I have a 8x10 Fasttrack layout in my basement. I run DCS and Legacy and find that absolutely clean track is essential for smooth and responsive operations. After extensive reading, I have settled on CRC (plastic safe) cleaner and use a disposable swiffer cloth / pad on a handle to reach all of my rails. Works great and after a cleaning the cloths are filled with oxidized grime, my rails are shiny, and everything works well. MY PROBLEM - I find that I need to repeat this process MONTHLY to keep my rails clean, regardless of how much I am running my engines. After each cleaning (monthly) the cloths are filled with black grime. MY QUESTION:
A) Is this normal, particularly for most of you reading this who probably have much larger layouts then me?
B) Is this a property of "cheap" Fasttrack, as opposed to Atlas or other brands of rail?
C) Should I call the EPA about the possibly hyper-oxidative air quality in my basement? (It is an unfinished basement in a "pre-war" house but I keep the humidity below 45% without any other air refinement)
D) Am I just imagining all of this?
[I am thinking A or B are the most likely responses]
Thanks.
Dont over think it , the biggest problem in cleaning track , is scratching the surface with an abrasive ( causing sparking and micro pitting) and applying deferent chemicals that unless designed to conduct electricity and not leave a residue, that can attract, grease oil and rubber (Rubber tires) Just an observation, the track system you picked isn't known great electrical properties
@DrTrainDad posted:A) Is this normal, particularly for most of you reading this who probably have much larger layouts then me?
B) Is this a property of "cheap" Fasttrack, as opposed to Atlas or other brands of rail?
It's not about "cheap". For instance nothing about Fastrak is cheap.
It is about construction, and even the most expensive track can require frequent cleaning. It's a bigger problem with traditional tubular track, Fastrack, Realtrak, Gargraves and Ross than with some others, like Atlas. The Atlas track for instance is nickel plated and so the track itself doesn't contribute as much to the dirt problem (although at one point I believe that Atlas also made track with rails made out of steel which do need to be cleaned more often).
It's also about the construction of the wheels rolling over it. No matter what kind of track steel wheels constantly wear as they roll along leaving dirt on the rails.
Once a month is a realistic number.
You do have an alternative. Convert all of your locomotives, lighted cars and operating cars to battery power with an appropriate radio control system (which is generally not TMCC/Legacy or DCS). Then the cleanliness of the track makes no difference because power is no longer being drawn through the rails.
Mike
Actually, I had Fastrack for years, and my latest layout was built with Ross/Gargraves. I've found that I am cleaning much less often with Ross/Gargraves tinplate than with my Fastrack. I don't find the Atlas solid track to be any less forgiving than my Ross/Gargraves as far as cleaning goes, we've used it for years on our modular club layout.
@DrTrainDad posted:A) Is this normal, particularly for most of you reading this who probably have much larger layouts then me?
B) Is this a property of "cheap" Fasttrack, as opposed to Atlas or other brands of rail?
C) Should I call the EPA about the possibly hyper-oxidative air quality in my basement? (It is an unfinished basement in a "pre-war" house but I keep the humidity below 45% without any other air refinement)
D) Am I just imagining all of this?
[I am thinking A or B are the most likely responses]
Thanks.
A) Not sure if it's normal
B) Sort of. Whatever FasTrack is specifically made of might just be more prone to oxidation. A Nickel based metal will oxidize less than an iron based metal.
C) Nah. But you'll want to avoid sources of ignition 
D) Probably not.
Pick yourself up some No-Ox. It's pretty shocking how much it has helped my track. It's especially shocking given how little I used. I clean the track with some solvent (Goof Off lately). Then I spread the No-Ox on the rails tops with my finger. Then I wipe it off the outside rails. So far it hasn't harmed my traction tires and I clean track a lot less often.
Helpful hint: use as little as possible. I used too much at first.
@Mellow Hudson Mike posted:It's not about "cheap". For instance nothing about Fastrak is cheap.
It is about construction, and even the most expensive track can require frequent cleaning. It's a bigger problem with traditional tubular track, Fastrack, Realtrak, Gargraves and Ross than with some others, like Atlas. The Atlas track for instance is nickel plated and so the track itself doesn't contribute as much to the dirt problem (although at one point I believe that Atlas also made track with rails made out of steel which do need to be cleaned more often).
It's also about the construction of the wheels rolling over it. No matter what kind of track steel wheels constantly wear as they roll along leaving dirt on the rails.
Once a month is a realistic number.
You do have an alternative. Convert all of your locomotives, lighted cars and operating cars to battery power with an appropriate radio control system (which is generally not TMCC/Legacy or DCS). Then the cleanliness of the track makes no difference because power is no longer being drawn through the rails.
Mike
Mike it not the steel wheels, go look at the real track. and Atlas is nickel with an oxidized copper center rail... But I so agree with you in converting to dead rail. On board power is the way to go
@BillYo414 posted:A) Not sure if it's normal
B) Sort of. Whatever FasTrack is specifically made of might just be more prone to oxidation. A Nickel based metal will oxidize less than an iron based metal.
C) Nah. But you'll want to avoid sources of ignition
D) Probably not.
Pick yourself up some No-Ox. It's pretty shocking how much it has helped my track. It's especially shocking given how little I used. I clean the track with some solvent (Goof Off lately). Then I spread the No-Ox on the rails tops with my finger. Then I wipe it off the outside rails. So far it hasn't harmed my traction tires and I clean track a lot less often.
Helpful hint: use as little as possible. I used too much at first.
No-Ox can work wonders BUT if you are not is a clean environment (like most model railroads), I have read you should not use it. If you are running plastic wheels you will have of the black crud buildup on the rails. Which CRC are you using? Go back and check the dielectric chart to learn if your CRC is polar or non-polar. Any polar cleaner/solvent will have you cleaning more often (ask me how I know).
I have found you can clean pretty much with any solvent you like as long as you go back and clean with mineral spirits. Then a little graphite and you will be all set.
Have you read through the two links I provided earlier in this thread? It will all become very clear if you do.
Tom Stoltz
in Maine
@Tom Stoltz posted:I have found you can clean pretty much with any solvent you like as long as you go back and clean with mineral spirits. Then a little graphite and you will be all set.
The graphite is probably awesome! I never thought to use that.
I thought the No-Ox would attract lint and cat hair but so far it's been ok. I think it's because there is so little on the rails. Nonetheless, I graphite would be very interesting to experiment with. How do you put it on the rails? @Tom Stoltz
Been using NO-Ox. I have been happy with it. I don't understand the whole "track will never need cleaned again claim". My track needs cleaned still. I will say that my trains run more reliably. Maybe it's because I clean them regularly now or maybe its the No-OX. Who knows. My small layout is MTH RealTrax. Had a lot of issues prior to using the NO-Ox and cleaning more often. My new addition is Gargraves/Ross Custom Switches. I definitely find that my phantom/stainless gargraves rails stay cleaner. My 2 pennies.
