Track Dead Spots !!#$%^&

A Micro-Torch?  Even though I have never used a "Micro-Torch, it would seem to be overkill as the plastic Ties(?) melting should have informed you.  I use a solder station set to 550 degrees and tinning both the rail and the wire before attaching and then apply the wire to the rail and quickly touch the wire and the rail simultaneously and getting off quickly.  With a soldering iron/gun the heat is more directed versus using a broad flame on a torch.  As far as the short itself, you do not mention the use of a meter.  I suggest getting even a cheap one at $10.  You would still need to isolate the section under test.  Good Luck.  Electrical problems are pesky.

Bite the bullet and take up the track. If you want to find the problem and fix it, there is no other way. Sure there are workarounds, and if that's ok with you, then fine. Me? The track comes up.

Larry

@Loose-Caboose posted:

... As far as the short itself, you do not mention the use of a meter.  I suggest getting even a cheap one at $10.  You would still need to isolate the section under test.  Good Luck.  Electrical problems are pesky.

This is not a “short.” It is an open circuit where continuity is lost.

@Rich Melvin posted:

This is not a “short.” It is an open circuit where continuity is lost.

I was more concerned with the Micro-Torch and as an after thought remembered the electrical problem mentioned and forgot it was an OPEN.  Open/Short, a meter is invaluable to find electrical issues, which was my prime concern finding pesky electrical problems.  Sorry for the misstatement.

FIXED!!  What seemed to be working is using a good Weller 80w chisel point soldering iron, and getting some good large solder spots on side of rails, and then jumper wires.   Thnx all.

When soldering, you should always use flux, it chemically helps the solder to bond to the metal. Much easier and better solder joints will result....