Track Power Issue

One brick is more than enough for your 12x6' layout. What guage wire are you using?  A minimum of 16 ga, and ideally 14 ga wire is recommended.

I would also have at least 3 pairs of feeders on each loop of track

You don't need blocks unless you want to cut power to a yard or siding so you can power down parked locomotives. (To add blocks with only one transfomer.  After isolating a yard or siding . Power to the block would go to a toggle and then to the track.)

A weak aspect of most switches is power continuity through all three legs of the switch and the middle rails within the switch.  Add a power feed to the middle rail between the insulated block and the switch.

I can see why switches are avoided on some folks’ layouts.....

RickO and TrackerJohn thanks for the feedback.  Will add some feeder wires to the loop and may just remove the isolated sections to avoid the potential power drop as it appears these are not necessary from your reply. I am currently using 16 ga, based on the length of the feeders will go to 14 ga.

I do have a couple of sidings, but I used a toggle switch to isolate those when not in use. 

As I expand my layout is there any issue with having a 2nd brick added to the loop without blocks?  Can you have to much power to the track? 

thanks

Frank

@FJI 05 posted:

As I expand my layout is there any issue with having a 2nd brick added to the loop without blocks?  Can you have to much power to the track?

thanks

Frank

You certainly can have too much power. Using two supplies at 10 amps each gives a total 20 amps available. That will melt things any smaller than 10 awg wire.

It is possible to run two bricks together through a Lionel TPC unit or Legacy Powermaster but it will leave weld marks on your rail in a derailment. I know from experience.

I have since split up the two bricks and use one for the track and one for accessories using my TPC unit to regulate the voltage.

My layout is 10x16' with  2 loops an 8' passing siding, and two small yards 4' of track 3 tracks wide. I also have 7 remote switches powered through the track.

What type of track are you using? is this fastrack? I soldered the 14 ga feeders right to the tabs underneath my fastrack.

On one brick I can run at least 3 trains led by scale steamers with smoke on without issues including 2 6 car passenger consists without issue.

I haven't found its limit on my layout yet. I'd say run one brick unless your popping the breaker because of the train load if your layout grows that much.

Additionally. Your extra 180w brick will power a ton of accessories. I won't bore you with the list but I'm still adding and the brick is keeping up just fine.

"You certainly can have too much power. Using two supplies at 10 amps each gives a total 20 amps available. That will melt things any smaller than 10 awg wire."

Available amperage vs actual draw is the thing to understand. A 20 amp supply supplying one amp doesn't need 10 awg wire.  A 20 amp supply can sit all day and not melt anything, as long as the gauge of the wire matches the current draw. Match the wire gauge to the actual expected load, for any item or accessory.

The problem points to the switch contacts when the center rail trips from one  position to the other.  Clean the switch contacts with a point file or fine sand paper.

Check for poor contact of the switch points that do not meet.  Bend them to make good contact.

It the contact points can not be bent to meet or cleaned and get them to work the contacts may be destroyed and you will have to replace the switch.

Adding more track feeds or more amperage is not the solution.

Charlie

I should have clarified, as Arthur aptly pointed out. 20 amps on a dead short will melt wires, likely from 14 gauge and smaller.