Track Recommendations

I like Gargraves track myself. That's what i would recommend. It looks better and has wooden ties.

There are myriads of choices regarding track.  I don't think the older MTH sets ever came with 027 track.  That being said, any of the track systems are fine given your current desires.  I use gargraves track plus ross switches but the newer lionel or MTH track would be just fine.  The center drivers on your loco are blind drivers meaning they do not really touch the rails anyway.

MTH Real Tracks comes in O-31, O-42, O-54, O-72 and O-82.

Lionel Fastrack comes in O-36, O-48, O-60, O-72 and O84. There other track type options as well.

Take a look at all because there are price differences and noise level differences.  I also found that availability was an issue where I live. 

It is an individual choice. 

MTH Realtrax is a decent product, but the widely spaced ties in the roadbed make it look less realistic than Fastrack's roadbed. But it does have a solid rail and a more realistic profile than Lionel's fastrack, which looks tubular like an amusement park ride. Realtrax's center rail is also blacked out in an attempt to conceal it. Lionel did the same thing to their center rail in earlier issues, but went back to a regular uncoated center rail after complaints of poor continuity. Fastrack is also a popular RTR track system, but is costly. I think you'd be better off sticking with the Realtrax, since you already have it.

Geno

Add O31 and O96 to Lionel Fastrack!

Plus has some of the most reliable non-derailing switches!

Actually the darkened rail stood out like a sore thumb. The silver rail actually hides better. Only the first one or two sets came with the dark rail so there was very little said about continuity problems. Most people scrub off the top blackening regardless of who makes the track

RealTrax is not bad, but it has a rep for the contact tabs breaking off when disassembled.

If you like the realistic shape but want track that is much less noisy, look at Ross Custom Switches track. Same rail shape, wood ties, MADE IN THE USA.

And Ross makes the best switches, PERIOD. Also probably the widest selection of switches as well.

Personally I'm going with MTH Scaletrax, real rail shape, much smaller solid rails and ties but not as robust and currently hard to get. Also has a very thin, blackened center rail that really fades into the background well. There are some that say the ties are too far apart, I can't see the difference myself. The ties are much smaller and much closer to scale size compared to most track.

Realtrax is decent and I have a lot of it. It requires and change in thinking when assembling and taking it apart from pinned track. Hold 2 pieces in a V, railtops touching, rotate to flat pressing together. Add next piece by touching railtops at the angle again and bring new piece into line while pressing together. to separate, hold one piece flat and lift other end of second piece.

Realtrax is only a bit less noisy than Fastrack, the two are the worst for sound of rolling wheels drowning out your expensive engines sounds. The plastic roadbeds act as speaker cones for the sound. Atlas has the same problem with it's similar track, no data on relative noise level.

UPDATE

I Reread your original post

The most realistic track (In My Opinion) and the closest to scale is MTH Scaletrax. Price per piece is also lower than RealTrax. Additionally, it has the easiest to use Flex sections I have seen. Problem there is availability, especially in the switches.

As I see it, it comes down to 4 considerations:

1-How much you want to spend.

2-How realistic you want it to look.

3-The level of labor you want to invest to achieve that level.

4-Whether you need steel rail for possible magnetraction locos.

If you are fortunate enough to live near a train store, by all means go and inspect the various offerings.  But don't let the clerk tell you, "This is the best."  A great many hobbyists do settle on GarGraves tinplate (available from the factory in upstate New York) with Ross switches if you need switches.

If you are a beginner I would use tubular track like either Lionel or Gargraves. Don't go with the built-in roadbed as that type of track is much more difficult to work with.

You can't cut to fit Realtrax or Fastrack.

Ross Custom switches makes some of the best switches for the money. The Ross switches are more expensive in the beginning but don't give you the heartaches of other brands of switches, plus you can change out the switch motor with the switch completely attached to the other tracks in the layout.

Lee Fritz

I used FasTrack and I don't think it's very noisy as everyone claims.  I don't run my trains wide open either.

So I do not need scale track, but I want something that looks realistic "

The answer then is Gargraves or Ross.

.....

Dennis

There are many different types of track and just as many opinions of which is best. As stated by TrainsRMe above, going to a hobby shop or train store and looking carefully at all the available track is the best place to start. His 4 considerations are also something good to note.

There is a book by Peter Riddle, Trackwork for Toy Trains (Essential guide to O gauge track) that explains the differences in most of the available track systems. That also might be good and help you make a better decision.

Personally I think all the currently available track systems are good ones, and most are competitively priced. It's really a personal preference selection.

Current production RealTrax is no longer of solid rail, it is hollow.

I also use Gargraves track tin plate with wood ties, if you are going to solder track leads to the rail side(web) tin plate is easier to solder then the stainless steel rail. I chose Gargraves because it is flexible and this track has been produced for many years, also the folks at Gargraves are accessible for assistance when needed. 

    Mr. Smith Gargraves track Ross switches end of story. Choo Choo Kenny

Bryan,

Welcome to the forum. Before anything else remember this. There is no such animal as a foolish question. Above someone mentioned a book by, Peter Riddle. His books are easy to understand. His first three books are the easiest to understand. They come in three colors. They are yellow, black and light blue. These are easy to find on amazon.com. Do your search under, Bruce Greenberg Publications.

Much has been written on track selection. I suggest that you do alot of reading before making your selection. You are the only one who knows what you are wanting to accomplish. What works for others may not do so for you. The only thing I can add is this. Make your choice of track plans to include the largest possible. Try to avoid anything smaller than 054.

God's Blessings,

"Pappy"                                                          

If you are space limited, like myself, the broader curves are not possible if you need a complete loop. You had O27 which I believe is too sharp for most any moderately realistic locos. I found attempting to run an O27 "8" with a Lionel TMCC NW2 put too much strain in the curves - it slowed significantly in the curves. It worked great with my trolley.

I redesigned my layout with Lionel FasTrack with O36 curves and O48 Command Control switches. Those switches are simply the best IMO. On top of my plywood I covered it with thin indoor/outdoor carpet - very little track noise.

I suggest you visit the websites of Ross, Gargraves, etc.  I prefer Gargraves flex track for the layout with Ross switches.  Both Ross and Gargraves offer sectional track which removes the time and effort necessary to bend the flex track for curves.  I'm using the sectional track for an around the tree display this year. 

By all means, visit a hobby shop if you can and see the track alternatives.  Also, there seem to be good deals on excellent used track and switches in the OGR "For sale or Trade" forum.

Happy railroading.

Carl

Stick with either the RealTrax or FasTrack for now. 036 FasTrack and 042 RealTrax fit on a 4' wide table.

The track systems are simple to assemble and make power connections and have a reliable layout. Most non-scale equipment can negotiate those curves. If you can use a wider table, then 5' would use Lionel FT 048 or MTH RT 054. You would like that better.

Take your time and shop any source to acquire the track for least cost that you can.

You can easily sell it for 40%-50% of retail if and when you decide to go for the truly realistic track.

Using the more realistic track requires additional skills and knowledge to build a layout. That is why I suggest staying with one of the other two. Buying it mostly pre-owned with some retail purchases will keep your average cost down.

On the engine issue, start a new post citing the set number. Someone will assist you in replacing the traction tires. They are typically more reliable than your experience. However, both manufacturers have run into quality issues with the tires occasionally.

Lucky you.

Getting something up and running is the best way to learn as you experience the different challenges and surprises and gain personal perspective and knowledge.

Everyone has a favorite track.  I've used Fastrack (fast to set up, don't have to ballast, good quality, noisy) and Atlas (good track, quiet, awesome electrical conductivity if installed well, harder to install).

Frankly, the brand of track is not that critical.  What matters is installing it correctly and well: fitting pieces together well, making good reliabile feeds at enough points, keep the track level and such.  That is much more important.

Oh, and by the way - the middle drivers on many locos are not supposed to touch the rails.  They don't on many/perhaps most of my steamers.  Blind drivers - those without flanges, often miss the rails by between one and three thicknesses of printer paper deliberately, so the flanged drivers that power and guide the loco are sure to have all the traction they need. 

Using Gargraves with Ross is like using peanut butter with jelly. An all-time winner.

-OR-

Extra ties, original type, or of various materials, are being made for tubular O gauge if that simple addition would be realistic and reliable enough.

Ok, I admit I'm not a "roadbed" guy (or a "controls" or even a "sounds" guy). For "normal" "press together in the living room" track, old Super O is my favorite but harder to find still nice. I like the looks of the similar K-line track once made, but I hear varying reviews and its not being made anymore sooo...at #2, std. O tubular with extra ties would likely be my "go to" for a "living room type" choice if I had minimum diameter limits. The availability, cost, and variety make it attractive enough for me.

Other than turnout reputation(Ross, Lionel O) Track is track, What you see, is what you get, and you only get what you pay for! So what are YOU drawn to? Roadbed or regular? Made a rail type/metal choice? Wood/metal/or plastic, and color of the ties? Price matter? And does the color of that third rail matter? Seems it would be best to ponder the personal choices first. Which turnouts to use might depend on the engines ran across it to! Especially if your more into looping than switching operations, think twice before you just trash the 0-27. You might want to consider getting a smaller loco(a switcher?!), and running two loops one 0-27 and one in ??"dia. I think the raised roadbed would "hide" well enough if elevated, given a "paint wash", and kept  to the rear. Transition tracks could help connect 2 loops of differing styles. If you wanted you could use the 0-27 for building a yard in the center and use a switcher to pull 1 or 2 cars out to the "mainline" or a siding the Consolidation can handle.    

As one who started a layout recently, and went with Fastrack because it looked good, had everything in radius, turnouts, etc. that I would need. But am sorry now. Corrosion on some track started, as well as inside the track and on the tabs. Several turnouts bought new had problems of internal wires not connected and loose screws etc. rattling inside which cause shorts and needed to rework. I ended up taking track apart,replacing bad track that had serious corrosion problem and engine just halted, or slowed way down, and if stopped in those section, would not start up, also removing scenery etc. several times before I got good sections and everything working now. My neighbor who has a better cash flow, went with Gargrave and Ross switches, not one problem and what I will be going with next year after we move. I regret seriously my decision, and rework on using Fastrack. Others, love it.

I use Ross for both the switches and track and am very pleased with a problem free operation!

You might try out the O-36 Lionel Fastrack with a simple loop.   Sometimes you just need to try it for yourself to find out what you like.   You might look at the buy/sell board to see if someone has the Fastrack from a set that they can part with.

I use tubular track for several reasons:  It is cheap.  It is very cheap.  I have about 1000 pieces of it.  It can be cut to any size easily.  I have 125 022 switches.  I have 15 prewar AF O-40 switches.  I have about 30 O-72 switches.  I have O-31, O-40, O-42, and O-72 track.  

I also have some O-62 Fastrack, but it is too expensive.

I love the look of Ross and Gargraves but it is not good for a layout that will be taken apart and moved often. SO if you have a permanent layout go for it, but if you are planning to move it ofter go with Realtrax or FasTrack

Bryan, your question is about track but I am surprised no one has addressed your locomotive issues.

Your 2-8-0 Railking or Rugged Rails Consolidation has been a staple of the MTH line for a number of years and is a proven quality steam engine. The middle drivers do not have flanges on them, so the loco will negotiate tighter curves. On tight curves, there will be some swing, thus causing the middle drive wheels to swing off the rails to some degree.

You mention the rubber "traction tires" as they are properly called, are worn. Replacing these with new ones may solve all your running issues. MTH has these traction tires in stock as do many MTH dealers as they are a common part.

As mentioned, MTH never made Realtrax in 027. The sharpest Realtrax curve is an 031. The engine is advertised as being able to navigate 031 curves. But there are MTH products, advertised as such, that will manage 027 curves and clear 027 switch box housing. I don't know if this loco will do that. But the loco DOES run on the Realtrax 031 curves, as I have personally seen it do so. 

But I do know it is a well made locomotive for a starter set loco, and hardly worthless. The fact it has been in the MTH line-up for so many years says to me it must be one of their better selling starter set locomotives.

As far as track...

ANY track can be improved upon to look more realistic... even tubular, which is also probably the initially most affordable way to go. You will end up spending money or time to put additional rubber or wood ties under the track.

Lionel is now producing tubular 0 and 027 track based upon actual distributor need, but there is certainly plenty of it still available. If you don't like the look of the tubular track switches, you can also match either Gargraves or Ross switches to tubular track.

The various molded road bed track systems (like FasTrack and Realtrax) may be more costly over tubular, but have an advantage of allowing you to gradually expand your layout. Many folks that use an indoor/outdoor carpet on their train board don't even screw down their track as the track stays in place without shifting. This can be done with tubular track too, but you may need to do some rail crimping when repeatedly pulling together and apart the track.

Every track system has its pros and cons. I use 027 track with added rubber ties to help deaden the sound. There are many engines and rolling stock I cannot run due to the tight curves. But I have no interest in them anyways. There are plenty of locomotives and cars that will make the tight curve, so I'm content.

There are many good choices but I am partial to Ross Switches and Gargrave's track.  Both are excellent, look reasonably semi-scale and 100% Made in the USA. You will also never have a problem locating product with these two brands.

If you just want some temporary push together track for under the Christmas tree, then Lionel O gauge track will fill the bill.  Tinman 3rd rail a forum sponsor also has this track (used refurbished)  in stock.

Marx made O-34 that is compatible with O-27.  They made switches also.  

Personally, I would stay away from used track if you are a beginner. After you select a track type and learn a little about it then the used track might be more suitable. You could run into problems that may become frustrating with used items. Also the Gargraves flex track might be a bit of a strain for a beginner? They have sectional track, if Gargraves is what you like I would start with their sectional track. Ross also has sectional track. The advice to start with Fastrack or Realtrax is sound, those are both good systems well suited for carpet layouts, as well as temporary or permanent layouts on a table or bench work. However, as I said above, learning about the different track systems and making your own selection to suit your needs is the best way to go. Then you will know what you have and hopefully be happier with you selection.

Bryan,

    There are many different kinds of good track, I happen to like FasTrack because of the remote control FT switches.  I wanted to eliminate all the switch wiring an FasTrack allows this to happen, also I have had no problems with the track what so ever.  I also own RealTrax for my inside tighter loop and Atlas Industrial Rail which I will use, transitioning in and out of my FT, along with using it on my new 2nd level, of my living room Christmas layout.  The Command Control FT Switches are fantastic stuff, I highly recommend them with both DCS & Legacy controlled layouts.

PCRR/Dave