transformer options for large layouts

Chad

O Scale 2 rail has never had a commercially made power supply that became a de facto standard like the ZW or Z-4000 have been in O scale 3 rail.

What you need will be defined by your power demands. 

What locomotives do you have?  Are they conventional DC or do they have sound decoders? 

Do you plan to run passenger trains with incandescent lights? If so how many cars?

Once you define your amperage and voltage needs they you can decide on what power supply best meets them.

Bridgeworks makes very good DC power supplies.

Adding bridge rectifiers to a modern AC power supply like a Z-4000 is another good option.  It is also inexpensive if you already have a new AC transformer.

If you have factory 2 rail MTH locomotives with Proto 2 you can run them on AC or DC power in addition to DCS.  Proto 3 locomotives are very versatile, they will run on conventional AC, conventional DC, DCC or DCS.

Hi Ckono, I added a bridge rectifier to my Z4000 to run my DC G scale trains.  It works great.  Plenty of power.  BTW, if you use an AC transformer and add the rectifier you will also need to add a toggle switch to control direction.

Rick

Since it's 2-rail, I assume it's DC.  If so, I definitely would explore the Bridgewerks power packs (www.bridgewerks.com), as Ted noted.  Not cheap, but excellent in every respect.  I know that's what I would use if I was going the 2-rail route.

Not cheap...that's an understatement.  They don't even show a price list on their web site or at least I couldn't find one.

Here's a partial list on Wholesale Trains:

http://www.wholesaletrains.com...le=G&Item=bwerks

Hi Ck

I have a 2R layout with about 200ft of mainline track and run DC. I use the MRC Power G with Crest remote control handhelds. This would be your less expensive option I guess. If you are building a large 2R layout, hand held control is a must and the Crest walk around controls work well. The power G has power to spare and you will need every bit. I never realized how heavy O scale trains were until I actually had some main line to test on. A 40 car Atlas fishbelly hopper train weighs in at nearly 80lb. Factor in grades and like the real railroads, you will need some horspower to keep things rolling. I had 7 powered units hauling 2 long trains last weekend and probably coud have added another 7 before the Power G timed out.

Before I went to DCC, I used GML Enterprises throttles.   They make 3, 4, and 6 amp throttles with and without memory (you can unplug the handheld and the train keeps running with memory).    They also do fastclocks

http://www.thegmlenterprises.com

a more reasonably priced unit is the MRC Control Master 20. 10amp output, throttles with memory and momentum, 2 level output switching.

If price is the problem, these things are not complicated.  I use a Variac, a 24volt stepdown transformer, a Radio Shack bridge, used MRC gauges, and some really good circuit breakers and switches.  But the Lionel conversion is probably adequate, since it was designed for multiple locomotives back in the series- wound days.

I also have a Control Master 20. Plenty of power. I am not sure is MRC still stockes them, though.Dick

I use a Variac, a 24volt stepdown transformer, a Radio Shack bridge, used MRC gauges, and some really good circuit breakers and switches.

That was a typical DIY approach for many decades and worked well enough with strictly conventional equipment. 

Lately it seems that trouble with multi-mode decoder equipped locomotives is often related to home made power supplies.  Some were built to put out only the minimum 12 volts called for in NMRA Standard 9.  Today's sound decoders may need more than 12 volts (up to the maximum 16 volts listed in RP-9) for full range conventional speed control.  Some sound decoders are also sensitive to the dirty power that can be put out by DIY power supplies.

I don't believe they are made any longer, but you can still find them on da bay' and such.

If it helps, I use the digitrax 20 amp power supply to control my dcs tiu and dcc unit.  Works flawlessly.  I have two mains, one dcc the other dcs.  That power supply is a monster. 

If your just starting you may want to consider R/C battery. 

R/C via Tam Valley Models. It looks as though is would work very well. It has me interested.

Dick

Hi

Unfortunately I don't have a layout yet ... domestic politics. BUT for my test track I use a variable DC lab supply that produces smooth DC. It also has built in digital volt meter and ammeter. I got it on ebay for less than $50.00 . I would not have anything else. I can actually see what my motors are doing.

J

Model Rectifier Corp. Power 'G' for DC

If you are just starting out you might want to consider a RC rechargeable battery power setup, which eliminates track wiring!

Airwire for one example:   http://www.reindeerpass.com/cv...oducts-air-wire.aspx

Simon

Hi group,

I'm using the MRC Power G when I use straight DC. I have a toggle to switch between using DCC and DC.