Triggering Crossing Signals Without Insulated Rail

How about the Lionel 153 IR Sensor or the Z-Stuff Block Signal Detectors?

Seriously, what do you find wrong with these options?  You're going to have to use some sensor similar to do this if you don't go with the insulated rail.

These were recommended in another crossing threadand are popular with the two rail folks.

I have yet to add them to my layout but they are certainly more affordable than Lionel or mth IR detectors

http://www.azatrax.com/controller.html

RickO posted:

These were recommended in another crossing threadand are popular with the two rail folks.

I have yet to add them to my layout but they are certainly more affordable than Lionel or mth IR detectors

http://www.azatrax.com/controller.html

I can second Azatrax we are using some of their gear on our modular layout.

I use two Lionel 153 IR and they working very well.

A.C.Sant Anna

The 153 IR does work very well.  Unfortunately, the mainline is close to the edge of the benchwork, so I would have to face the backside of the 153 IR towards the front (viewing area) of the layout.  I just don't like how that would look.  

I have 4 of the Z stuff detectors controlling a two track crossing and they are not as reliable as the 153 IR, at times the gates go up even if there is a train still in the block.  I have moved them and messed with them and they just do not consistently indicate a train's presence.  I won't buy any more of them.

RickO thanks for the link.  That product looked promising.  

Reed switches and magnets is all there is left except for a micro switch and fine wire.

Which Ross track? Isn't Ross already isolated? Every tie? All you'd really need to do is make two slices that will severe the one or two electrical ties and make sure that rail cant slide; If it does,  pulling spikes, epoxy reset spikes with a tack hammer and flat punch. Even if by bad luck you land a connection in the middle, a dice down the gauges centerline and loss of some ties seems more reasonable than a full tear out. Your railroads fist patch job; 3-4 new ties slid in max, or.. wood putty's and todays epoxies are awsome, a big pinch of ballast and some oily black paint to avoid paint tone changes and call it protoypical.

Where you can, if it is loose, once out, try isolations pins cut into T-s and capping the rails (2 or 4 if wide, on 1 isolated rail's two joints) you can slip fit rails like this back in place with the Ts as filler, without butting or huge gap concerns from cutting. On solid rail enamel, silicone, rubber cement, etc can provide a buffer. Tape too if its good.

Cover a section of outer rail with insulating tape, then place silver-colored conductive tape over the insulation.  Then attach a wire to the conductive tape and that's the sensor signal.  So rather than a insulated solid rail, you have more like a insulated outer layer/veneer. There have been several OGR threads showing how to do this.  Yes, wear-and-tear is a consideration.

If you can drill 2 holes (say 3mm or 1/8") in your ballast or perhaps thru a track tie, there are products that shoot the IR beam upward from the track and reflect off the bottom of the passing train to a IR detector.  Obviously you need wiring access under the track - typically 2 wires going to the transmitter (essentially an IR LED) and 2 wires going to the receiver (a photosensor).

You can cut existing track, already in place, to create a sensor block with a dremel.  I used styrene as a filler, but styrene, CA'ed in place is not necessary.  Non-derail inputs pictured.  Large dremel wheel.

Large Dremel cutter.