Tubular track-compatible switch options

If it says 027 (even though those switches are probably 42” or 54” ), then the track profile will be too low for regular O gauge track.

O gauge 072 switches have been made by Lionel  since the late 80s and are reasonable.

Check out Ross, they make a tinplate compatible O gauge switch.

With Gargraves-tinplate connectors or Atlas-tinplate connectors, even regular Atlas or Ross track are possible.

Peter

The ones you found are 20.37" radius O-42 switches for the O27 track system. These early types have the 45° 20.37" radius curve leg, later versions of the same switch have just a 30° curve leg to match the 12 sections to a circle(30° each) of O-42 20.37" radius sectional track.

@Putnam Division posted:

If it says 027 (even though those switches are probably 42” or 54” ), then the track profile will be too low for regular O gauge track.

O gauge 072 switches have been made by Lionel  since the late 80s and are reasonable.

Check out Ross, they make a tinplate compatible 9 gauge switch.

With Gargraves-tinplate connectors or Atlas-tinplate connectors, even regular Atlas or Ross track are possible.

Peter

Lots of interesting reading! I like that both Ross and Gargraves are made here, though. At least for me, it's a nice selling point, as I try to buy as much new stuff made domestically.

I saw in another thread that you might need to shim a GG switch when going to Lionel O track. Is this the same deal with Ross?

Excellent topic, pkhoury, thanks for starting it. Arnold

@Paul Khoury posted:

I saw in another thread that you might need to shim a GG switch when going to Lionel O track. Is this the same deal with Ross?

Not sure. However, I suspect that they are very close. I can put a piece of Ross with a piece of Lionel O gauge and take a pic this morning.

Peter

Ross sell a piece of roadbed to shim there switches to the proper height to match "O" track.

It depends on what trains you are running. If you're running prewar tinplate, these trains typically have wheels with deeper flanges, and many brands, including ones that are advertised as tinplate compatible, are likely to present problems. If you're running trains that are from the postwar era and later, you should be ok with just about any brand.

OK.....here are the pics......

Close with roadbed.....not wothout roadbed.....

I've done O / O27 track connecting.  As Peter has shown there's an obvious height difference which can be overcome multiple different ways.

I've chiming in here to mention that you need special pins too.  If it's tubular to tubular, there is a pin that is smaller on the one half so that it fits in the O27 track but bigger on the other half so that it fits the O track.

I made my own by grinding down 1/2 of an 'O' pin.  It was trial and error getting the right size.  I only did this because 1) I didn't know that commercially available ones existed, and 2) even if I did, my local hobby store didn't have anything.

walt

Menards has made tubular track.Hopefully, they will make switches to go with it. Also, they could produce rubber roadbed for their track.

Concerning squaring off of tubular track, the issue seen in Putnam's picture.

I bought a 12" abrasive cut off wheel for my existing 12" compound saw, and a motor speed controller meant for universal motors off of you-know-where. It worked, but only kind of, and made alot of noise, and then I would have to drag the mitre saw off the shelf. Then I tried a Jorgesen mitre saw box, and bought a special fine tooth blade. That did not work either, just not fine enough blade. I ended up with a used Delta belt and disk sander, again from you-know-where. Hold the track square, upside down, and on the correct side of the disk, and you get a squared off end, might need to deburr with a file. Menards has some made in China unit for sale.

However, there is something else you really want. I can't see the ad, I think its Tinman three rail, they advertise above. Its just a piece of metal with three holes in it. You put the end of the track with the pins in it, hold the track square, then gently hammer on the other end. The intent of the tool is to put pins in, but a side effect is the pin end is squared off. Then I take the other end to the disc sander. It might be part of a kit. He also had a modified rail tie to re-tension the black sheet metal ties, and a squared off piece of metal so the tie doesn't bend when you hammer. He also had stainless pins and a puller fixture. I bought the set mostly for the track pliers, but to be honest, they just cannot crimp the track hard enough for my liking, something about elastic and in-elastic, I'm an EE not an ME.

I have found the Ross Tinplate switches are not well suited for running on a concrete floor, no great way to deal with the DZ-whatever switch machine. I could see how they would be very nice on a table layout. I use K-Line SuperSnap O72 that I have to fix and modify; I add a copper wire to each of the three center rails, have to file something down, and then put a piece of tape over one of the moving rails. At times I have had to add thin gauge wires to their connections on the switch machine because the connection is less than ideal. If I was building a table top, I would look into Ross.

@walt rapp posted:

I didn't know that commercially available ones existed, and 2) even if I did, my local hobby store didn't have anything.

The Acme pins are the only ones that have the correct offset for O to O27.



The Lionel pins are center ground and produce a sizable bump at the transition.

Peter mentioned these in his first post:

https://rossswitches.com/rossp...traditionalline.aspx

They are O72, made in USA, and match the height of traditional O gauge tubular track.  For years my brother and I suffered with a layout full of bumpy joints, etc., not good!  So I would get the RossPlate Tubular Rail O72s and finish the job!

@Ted S posted:

Peter mentioned these in his first post:

https://rossswitches.com/rossp...traditionalline.aspx

They are O72, made in USA, and match the height of traditional O gauge tubular track.  For years my brother and I suffered with a layout full of bumpy joints, etc., not good!  So I would get the RossPlate Tubular Rail O72s and finish the job!

I am very please with my RCS O-72 tubular track switches. They are so much better designed and engineered than the Lionel I replaced. Lionel's caused derailments and shorts. They were garbage. These don't. Exact same footprint as the Lionel. Worth the money if you are into tubular.

@Dave 69 GTEL posted:

I am very please with my RCS O-72 tubular track switches. They are so much better designed and engineered than the Lionel I replaced. Lionel's caused derailments and shorts. They were garbage. These don't. Exact same footprint as the Lionel. Worth the money if you are into tubular.

Sadly, that's not a shock. About several weeks before I posted this, I found my old O27 switches. Notwithstanding the O27 curve radius, they were junk switches. Even running straight through, I've had derailments as I remember it. But I'm glad, via this thread, to know there are other options I didn't know about before!

I don't know what kind of O27 switches you had Paul, but I use them exclusively and NEVER have an issue.  I use the newer (sorta) K-line low profile O27 ones in 27 and 42 inch sizes.

walt