Tubular Track Pins with Real Trax?

My biggest complaint about RealTrax is that the rail of a section is likely to not line up perfectly with the adjacent section. It was so bad on my small 7x9 layout that I had to take a file to some junctions. The pin idea is actually great. Because luck is always against us someone would have to make up the pins of the exact size to fit the later hollow track RealTrax. I have not tried it but Lionel pins might not be the right size. They may need to be knurled in the middle so the pin is stopped as it enter a rail section. Loose pin bought in bulk could be used around a layout.

Good idea,  AMFLEET25124.

LDBennett

I have been wondering this to. If the Old tubular pins don't work maybe the Gargraves pins will?

Thinking of trains during Thanksgiving festivities...I love it!!

rick king posted:

Thinking of trains during Thanksgiving festivities...I love it!!

 

Wouldn't have it any other way . As it is, we're all watching Steelers-Colts on the TV and I'm on my laptop multi-tasking.

The Real Trax track pin fitting looks like something I eagerly anticipate to do when I return home and see the results.

Hope the pin fitting goes good! I been thinking trains all week...just that time of year! Happy Thanksgiving

No one has mentioned using Super -O track pins, I don't know if it will work because I do not have the real Trax to check. Someone who has access to Super-O track pins should look into this.

The idea is great!  Wish I had thought of it.  Not for electric continuity but for mechanical alignment, IMO.

I am without a piece of Real Trax right now but I would try just about anything for a fit check; O-27 pins,  4 lb finish nail, 6lb finish nail either one with the head sniped off. A short piece of #10 (or other size) bare copper ground wire.  Something, anything to make that idea work.

Again, great idea!!

Gargraves pins fit. A little loose vertically, but perfect horizontally. I guess you could try stuffing 2 in there and see if it snugs it up both ways. 

The RealTrax end clips/contacts provide ample connectivity. What you should do is alternate the sides that the lock-ons are on to get both outside rails conducting common. (neutral)

Use a 40-1068-2 ground track in a couple of locations after switches to keep both outside rails connected.

Finally, I have found the black on the center rail top can be an issue. I removed it with 3M Pro Grade 320 grit on a sanding block. Fine enough to take it off and not grind the rail top surface.

I don't think the pins will help anything electrically.

It could be a bear trying to disconnect pieces with track pins installed. The recommended method for disconnecting Real Trax is to tilt (angle) one piece to the other. I don't like the hollow rail version. I bought some new fitter pieces and O-82 track; really hard to put together and rail heads don't always align. All of my old Real Trax is solid rail; goes together easy, comes apart easy and rail heads line up. Thankfully MTH retained the solid rail on the turnouts.

Take a section to the hardware store (Lowes, etc), ask someone what they have that might fit.  Might need shortening or mods.  Also if they're a little loose, squeeze the rail like Super O does to hold one side tight.  And keep the exposed pin short to ease in & out on angle.

I use the pads on the bottom  at each end to solder out side rail jumpers and drops.  Just snip a slot into one of the plastic mold fins to allow passage of the bonding jumper.

All my RealTrax is screwed to the table top. I have no problem with electrical connectivity but with rail alignments. Some are so bad I had to file the rails to minimize the bump they created in the trains' travels. To be honest for a portable layout the pins do nothing and make putting the track section together a real chore if not impossible. But for those of us with permanent layouts (who really should be using a track system that is not short sections) the pins might alleviate the rail mis-alignment problem.

To be clear and honest, even if offered the pin solution and the pins for free, I am not about to tear all my track to install them. If I ever had the desire to tear up the track I would simply replace it with a better track system rather than a short sectional system like RealTrax or FasTrack. I have a small bit of Atlas Flex Track that works great. Others like Gargraves track (??). But I would do a much more detailed investigation of what is available and I would never use MTH RealTrax again.

This is of course just my opinion and others' opinions may vary.

LDBennett

Hi Kevin, I like your idea a lot. If your pin thought turns out to not work how about finding a chromed nail that fits the rails. cut the heads off with your Dremill tool and your in business.

I say chromed nail because a regular nail may rust too quickly.

Let us know how it works out.

Update:

After arriving home tonight, went by the hobby area and the O track pins don't fit inside the Real Trax hollow rail.  Neither do the O-27 pins.  Well, it was a thought.  Thanks for the responses.

Does this qualify as a "What did you do on your layout today?"  LOL.